fishtailfred

PS, once you have it working you should drag it up here to me and we'll swap it to something with more freedom and a lower price and you can sell that and buy pizza, beer, coke and hookers with the difference.

Good that you're using LS coils like that. Win. Just make sure the round trip from battery to fuse to relay to coil to ground is as short and direct as possible and run some sort of automotive cap at the power feed to those coils. The fact that your ECU is in the glove box and thus well isolated from ignition stuff indicates that it's likely a power spike causing it. M$ boards that I know of (and all current FreeEMS boards too) have pretty rudimentary power supplies on them. If you're logging from the ECU when it does the reset, you can manually verify by looking at the clock(s) in the stream and see if they go to zero at the instant it's supposedly resetting. That's likely how MLV draws the line anyway, but worth checking. I don't trust Phil Tobin at all, let alone his software. @ cute wee, those sync reasons are not very helpful in the generic cases, and totally unhelpful in the specific cases. Nothing new there Generic bosch super cheap leads are what my truck runs (and ran on ms2 too), so yes, they're resistive, no need to research if you were unsure, crack out a meter. Most are. Copper cored leads are rare and uncommon to find period. But worth asking The relay fix should come first as you're pumping coil kick backs into your ECU power supply the way it is now. Not good. If that doesn't solve it, hopefully the plug swap will. Fix the relay situation first, though. I'd recommend an extra one, as the coils draw a lot of current at peak, and this will cause some sag of voltage to the injectors depending on ignition timing and make your injector behaviour slightly less consistent. You can get away with it as you described, though. On the other hand it's VERY nice to be able to pull a relay out of a socket and JUST kill one set of things. EG disable fueling while initially tuning your ignition timing offset or whatever the J&K clowns call it. In all cases, the key is to separate wiring feeds (+ and -) for the entire distance or as close as is reasonably possible. Taking this to the extreme, imagine running a 100m cable from a battery to an ignition coil. The cable has VERY LITTLE control over what happens AT the coil due to its length and resulting resistance. If you did that, and attached the ECU way out there at the end, it'd never work. On the other hand, if you ran two sets of wire 100m to a coil and to an ECU, it could, if setup right, work just fine. 1m is close enough to 100m to care, FYI. Fred.

Bump from dead re reset issues. Cam was probing me in the background (I like it, spooning too) and I had this to say: (14:38:11) Fred: what are the two relays going to 7 things through 7 fuses? :-/ (14:38:32) Fred: should have one relay from key to turn on power to ecu, one relay from ecu to turn on fuel pump (14:38:48) Fred: two relays from key to turn on fuel injectors and coils (14:39:04) Fred: in ms land those relays should get their ground from the fuel pump relay output and 12 from the key (14:39:10) Fred: or shit burns (14:39:31) Fred: the ones for the coils/injectors should be in the engine bay close to the coils/injectors/battery (14:39:50) Fred: the ECU one should be between battery or starter and ECU directly (14:40:04) Fred: The fuel pump one should be between fuel pump and battery directly (14:40:27) Fred: fuses should be at/near/on the battery end of wires so as to protect the wires (which is their job) Resistive ignition leads and plugs are essential. If you are getting genuine resets (not sync losses) then you're getting power supply disruption in the box or EMI through the box. Is the unit metal or plastic? If plastic, is it conductive? If not, don't rule out EMI. Try adding caps to the power supply wires and see if that cures it. Where is the box physically located? Hopefully inside the cabin away from the ignition components. How are you driving your coils? If you're using the uS box to switch them directly, I suggest giving that a HUGE miss as the grounding in M$ boxes is all kinds of fucked up. IE, DO NOT USE megasquirt internal ignition drivers under any circumstances. I'm ignoring my own words in this thread out of fond memories of the party at your place 4 odd years ago! Fred.

More epic posts by Ned! 50-100 is too low, Ned. It's closer to 400V that you get across the primary on a modern coil. Try driving one with a 100V unclamped MOSFET some time if you want LOLs and magic smoke emission display I actually know of a clown that did this, blew the little IC off of the board LOL. BTW, the secondary voltage only hits what it has to hit If you allowed it to be open it would go sky high. Attached to a plug it goes exactly as high as is required to jump the gap, and (resistance of leads aside) stops there and starts pumping juice through the arc. If you have a coil that doesn't have the boogy to jump the gap of a dirty plug or a high boost cylinder etc, then what you get is peak voltage that lasts until cylinder conditions become more favourable. That is to say that you don't get spark when the points open, rather once the voltage has exceeded the required voltage threshold. Same goes for the points, too, so what you're really doing is buying time to get them far away from each other that a spark can not jump with a lousy ~400V. If you did as you say and clamped it with a diode, you'd get little or no spark, and your engine wouldn't run or would run like a haunted shithouse. Fred.

Ned and slacker.cam are on the game here. I don't run a condensor at all This is the best way NO POINTS. Points suck, for many reasons, bounce included (yes it's real). You can solve some of these reasons with one of those old fashioned transistor ignition boxes which pass a little current through the points to keep them clean and switch the coil hard with a transistor! You can solve even more of the suckiness by having fully mappable ignition. Yay for rev limiters. OT now, sorry. I hate dizzies, and I hate points even more than dizzies. But the above tech by slacker and Ned is pretty much right on the money. I'd say Ned's longer post was very well written, in fact. 10 out of 10, Ned.

Will be there!

+1 for using brush-on tar sealers, if you want to kill panel resonance it's a good way to go. Probably pricey, and perhaps not applicable, but worth linking here: http://www.forman.co.nz/products/Marine_Insulation/Acoustic_Insulation

I used some of this stuff on my speaker project, likely a bit pricey for a car-interior quietening project due to the area, and won't kill the panel resonance, but very good for absorbing noise. Unfortunately I want to buy some more of it here in Auckland, and haven't found it yet, any ideas? Pics: http://stuff.fredcooke.com/BarcelonaSpeakerProject/IMG_7298.JPG http://stuff.fredcooke.com/BarcelonaSpeakerProject/IMG_7445.JPG http://stuff.fredcooke.com/BarcelonaSpeakerProject/IMG_7454.JPG http://stuff.fredcooke.com/BarcelonaSpeakerProject/IMG_7446.JPG http://stuff.fredcooke.com/BarcelonaSpeakerProject/IMG_7469.JPG

Time for a computer to control your dwell, I'd say You can scrap the ballast resistor too, if you have one. Never another burned coil from the key being on. + configurable ign cut rev limiter ftw.

That's a totally fixable situation Besides, the FreeEMS car that I have available is carby too, for now...

I can't be responsible for the poor taste in engine management of other attendees, however sometime in the next year we'll see if we can up the number to 2 or 10 or so

Not enough FreeEMS powered cars at the last 36 or so meets. May remedy this in the near future.

You're most welcome Hilarious.

Just a data point for comparison in load carrying. I've grossed 4.5 tonne in my truck with "just" that box section and the usual cross members. The trailer would have a lot easier time of things. Planning my own trailer build, very slowly, hence asking to see what others are up to

So I wasn't far off with the chicken feathers, then! Thanks for the info, guys. Looking forward to pics! I was thinking about the box wall thickness and realised that the box in my ute chassis is 2.5mm on one side and 3mm on the other. That's roughly 50x120 or so, though? Food for thought. Fred.

Bump to an ancient thread: What section (size and wall) is the main longitudinal and cross ways box in the deck? IF you still remember. What did you cover it with? Ply? Steel? Alloy? Chicken-feathers? Any more recent finished pics? Cheers!

LOL, there's some truth in that, but not as much as you'd think! Mostly I always got the ones that he'd let turn to shit, fixed them, and put them back into service. I probably have more from my grandfather than my father, and way more of my own. Right now I can think of a rusty 500m builders square, some fucked old power tools including a small skilly and broken/dangerous hitachi 4" grinder, and a set of newland sockets that had no ratchet and were all rusted to the point of not being usable. I think there are at least 5 brands in there now, the ratchet is a nice jap Koken one

Do I still have a set of XXL skid marks in the carpark? Yes, it's 630am here... epic all nighter on some documentation for those poor bastards that were silly enough to buy Puma boards for 10 bucks Should dig up the thread and post a link. Jealous of summer and cars and burgers, especially burgers, also beaches. Urinate, I've got links to the old threads, and I've got videos, one of these weeks I'll upload a few and bug you about unlocking them.

That engine needs a name... H10-500 or U10-500, to borrow from VW's nomenclature? It also needs an EMS... but that's got to be a mk2 thing. Very cool Ned!

http://forum.diyefi.org/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=1263 - FreeEMS number SEVEN I promise, it's easy, this guy did it himself, he's the first to do such a thing! YOU CAN DO IT!!! (and embarrass Cam in the process! ) Fred. PS, three times the charm!

Wait, 830 posts? You whore!

Why bother, it's already in the weeds!!! LOL @ Tara!

Also, post a screen shot of your timing map so some people in here can give you some hints about what to fix. And VE/fuel map while you're at it. And another thought, did you verify that the timing on the laptop matches the timing on the engine? If you had shit apart, maybe something changed? I had a pulley damper slip while setting the cam timing on my engine once, I cut that fucker in half with an angle grinder to ensure it never happened again.

This is a thread about tuning, right? Talk kPa I guess I wasn't clear. I've driven cars that took full throttle to do 110 (which is a safe place to be at pulling over wise), they were "cruising" at 100kPa. I've driven others that were cruising at 140 (OK with radar detector ) with a slight touch of the throttle, they were "cruising" at probably 40kPa. The latter would be happy with 50* advance and 16:1 AFR, the former would need 13:1 AFR and ~30* timing. Hence the question. Ratios make a difference too. Also, what you should be doing is this: [*:ffer4j8s]Save settings with some information about what they contain, date, comments, state of mods, fuel, etc. [*:ffer4j8s]Take datalogs with laptop or other device each and every time that you drive it, save with reference to tune ID. [*:ffer4j8s]When you get a chance, review all datalogs since last tuning session and make some positive changes [*:ffer4j8s]Repeat 1 - 3! Normal driving patterns, with a bit of thrash here and there, will give you a LOT of good info about what to change in the tune. Fred.

BIG +1, sounds like it's retarded to shit. I know people that cruise in the 17 - 19 range with as much as 55 btdc advance. you're looking at some serious egts with that, though, despite the above being true. It's important to note that "cruise" could mean different things to different people, cruise in my books is well under 100kpa, maybe 40 - 70 or so? If you were german, you might be cruising with 3psi, at which point the conversation changes. Define cruise? Fred.