cletus

Yes, it has one , in which I have tried 1w, 3w, and 5w bulbs Also has a battery sense wire which runs all the way to the battery on a separate wire

Ha, nope On to week 7 of not being able to figure it out. Alternator tests fine on test machine Alternator does not work on car Replaced battery cable, earth wire, made separate earth for alt, made bigger alt wire, wiring does what it should at alternator plug, bypass all this with another battery and sense wire completely separate to the car , nothing The alternator light flashes occasionally but alternator makes no charge. Nick the sparky is rather puzzled also as to why it doesn't work He has done more testing on the alternator this week and it works so fucked if I know. If it doesn't work this time I think I'll give up and adapt something else to it

Genuinely stoked to see you get this done and legit, congrats Such a massive undertaking, I hope you get a lot of enjoyment out of it

that is a huge improvement , looks sweet!

Thanks! Gave it a once over with the waterblaster this afternoon, looks a lot better

Retrieved it today, put it on the hoist for a bit of a look, some rusty bits to fix and a couple of patches of rotten wood. Which is now a wof fail on a trailer... I'm not going to get carried away on it, just get it useable and legal No power steering or mirrors and a slightly loose converter makes this vehicle not totally ideal for towing, but I don't think ive ever had so many thumbs ups and waves

cut the carpet out if it's got modified seats A round bit of pipe sharpened like a gasket punch, then made hot with a propane torch melts the carpet edge so it doesn't fray and makes a neat hole

Yep. Cost of a cert went up $25 at the beginning of the month

One thing to keep in mind While all these things are good, on an average street car, it can be pretty far off 'ideal' and still function acceptably for 95% of the driving you will do. If you look at angles on standard vehicles you will see what I mean. Lifted 4wds of all flavours are a good example of everything being completely wrong but they still drive acceptably I'd get it close as you can for what works and not get too hung up on it being perfect. The only thing I'd pay attention to, is the angles of the top arms so it locates the axle in both directions properly

Yes

Haven't heard anything yet...

Wof time again, gave the chassis a preemptive dousing with lanolin crc spray stuff. No , it does not like going out of this driveway. I put some wood down for the chassis to skid along

Must be. It's not new cable, I got given a lot of welding cable many years ago, I think this is the third car I've done with it The cable isn't damaged or squashed or anything so it must just be bung inside

Nick the sparky came and had a look. My wiring from the alternator is a bit on the small side and not the right type of wire. He made a test wire to bypass that, alternator was charging but it still wasn't charging at the battery there was a large voltage drop in one section of the battery cable that runs from front to back He said that was very uncommon and likely would have been why the original alternator shit itself Whipped the cable out and he's going to make a new one with the right stuff Pretty pleased to know what is wrong, I never would have figured that out myself

Went to father's day drags. Improved PB slightly to 11.35@120 which was good Missed second round of DYO because it wouldn't start, flat battery. Jump started it and managed to get home and it had charged the batt again.. checked charge voltage and it was low. Took alternator to sparky mate, he put it on testing machine, was low on output, changed reg, still poor , had blown diode. Turns out the guy who I'd asked to get a decent alternator when I put the car together had supplied me a China copy bosch Got a genuine bosch one, fitted it and improved the heat shielding a bit as it's close to the exhaust. Now doesn't charge at all. Checked connections, checked ergs at correct spots etc, zip. Took it off again, had it tested on testing machine, it works fine . Put back on car, nothing . Checked everything 5 times, it's got me stumped . Everything that should make it work, does what it should, and it's wired exactly the same as before Sparky is going to come have a look this weekend as I'm all out of ideas

Here you go

rock auto has some. freight doesnt take very long Brake & Wheel Hub > Brake Line > Brake Line | RockAuto More Information for AGS CNC6 (rockauto.com)

Are you planning on going faster than 11.0? Or do you want to avoid wof/reg but still run at street car events?

Chur bowl This was the fix, rotatey bit was not rotating

no, repair cert is only for unregistered vehicles sounds like a wof insector who is afraid of getting in trouble so is applying rules that are not valid for wof

50mm turbosmart gate, turbo is a GT4082 which is just an oem scania truck turbo. apparently good for about 600hp i chose it because it was quite cheap compared to a "performance" turbo of similar size. turbo guy reckoned the exhaust side was a bit big and the comp side a bit small but it seems to work well. makes boost from about 2000rpm, full boost by 25-2700ish, i rev it to 6 and it doesnt drop off only downside was i had to make v band things to suit, as the downpipe is a scania specific part

Something like that would be better In my opinion (and I'm not a tuning whiz, it's just stuff I've done that hasn't caused any problems) wastegate flow is important, even more so on something that is going to run lower boost (as the gate is going to flow more) and might be a bit fragile or sensitive to boost spikes or fluctuations

Might want to reconsider wastegate position before you get too far along?

i dont think its meant to be serviceable, but there is 2 bungs which can be removed, and under those are 2 pistons with springs behind them, a circlip holds the piston in, which i couldnt get out of the non functioning one im not actually sure what it does, it appears to be a block to pair the LF and RR circuits together i think i might just delete it altogether and run front-rear split instead of diagonal and see what happens

Brake bleeding. Daihatsu Mira, has a brake proportioning valve/splitter on the firewall. Had brake imbalance problem, replaced wheel cylinders , still had problem, got second hand proportioning valve which when you blow air through was more even in what was coming out the rear ports Fitted it, had a hard time bleeding it , now can't get any fluid to come out of the left rear ,pedal is good, not a blocked hose as I can crack a pipe at the hose or the valve and nothing comes out It's almost like it has a safety thing where if something happens a valve shuts or something? Any ideas or anyone had similar issues?