cletus

Handling is heeeeeaps better with cross steer setup. With the torque arm deal they still move around under braking as the diff still rotates a bit, if you reposition the arm mounts that can introduce problems if it's not in the right spot as well

Pg hydraulics G R engineering Suggest using the clamp style joints not the grub screw type, they always come loose

Yeah I reckon it deserves a spot for sure One of the best things about it IMO is you couldnt find a vehicle to do all the things you wanted So you just made one yourself, with some clever recycling and fabrication It's only some fancy paint, hi tech light bars and some 22" wheels away from being a SEMA winner anyway?

https://www.hotrod.com/articles/mopp-0607-mopar-cylinder-head/

'302' heads are later model swirl port from memory, are pretty good for a factory head

Yeah I dunno, the ports look pretty big and the exhaust manifolds look like 360 ones.... and a 727 behind a 318 seems a bit odd, i dont know enough about what parts should be in a B body though I had a set of 360 heads years ago that had those holes X2 on casting numbers on heads and block, would be interesting to see what's what

I think that would be fine, your certifier will probably want some sort of proof that the material you have made them from is suitable, that could be a receipt from the engineer who made them

Have done exactly that on my own car, so yeah I think that will be fine Lots of little whacks, take your time and make sure you dont go too far and dent the outside skin

Would count as a driveshaft modification so would need cert Cert requirements are,

https://www.hemiperformance.com.au/shop/reproduction-door-glass-window-weather-strip-full-set-suit-vf-vg-hardtop-with-chrome-outer.html No idea if these would work but if I can help someone put valiant parts in something, then i will

Technically yes should be certified, and the inspector should pick that up. But in practice, many American cars dont get picked up for things like that because they have no, or difficult to decipher, body tags and option codes, and a lot of the time all that v8 stuff and brakes and suspension has been in the car for years so it looks factory I get it quite often where someone has done a minor mod to a car and bought it in for cert, only to find it needs cert for heaps of other stuff that wasn't picked up for compliance

Yeah they are a cunt of a thing I've had to borrow the correct socket a couple of times to remove and refit them

AFAIK aussie a body upper ball joints were the same small joint the whole way through, B body joint is larger. US a body changed to the same bigger joint mid 70s I've got some aussie a body arms with joints if you want comparison measurements

Cool work van! Max points for using something older with some character instead of just ticking up a rangluxeradovara

Tyres. I've been looking at different sizes on 6 and 8 inch rims since I got the wheels trying to get a combo that looks right 225 60 15 on 15x8 rear 185 65 15 on 15x6 front I like the outcome, looks exactly how I wanted. As per other pics, the colour is hard to photograph. It looks more green irl and the match between wheel and body looks better for some reason?

Yeah only certs done after 1/2/21 will be on there

The certifier takes all the pics

Tag number and last 6 digits of the vin is what you need to access the info on the LVVTA website I did not know you could link to it on a forum...

Obtained some standard front side lights/reflectors to replace ugly clear and chrome ones

Yep that could be done if you do it like you say If it was me I'd try and incorporate some extra gussets rather than just 2 bits of flat bar butt welded on , some coilover brands do this, some do not

Official fail sheet looks like this, pm me a pic if you want me to have a look for you

Yep you can take to a different certifier no problem You will need a vin number put on the car before you can get a lvv cert finalized, the VTNZ/VINZ/AA can do that without doing the entry certification check (you dont want to get that done as you only get 28 days to get the whole thing finished) Once you have your LVV cert then get the entry certification check done Usually pretty simple if you dont need a repair cert, it's basically a more extensive wof if you have all the right paperwork

This might be a good option? https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/chevrolet/gear-boxes/listing/2979138143

I hope for your license's sake your wrist heals with less rotating travel than before lol I dont think I'd be able to own something that could do 2x the speed limit without cracking a sweat

Probably something you need to discuss with your certifier to make sure you are on the same page, as that is something that isn't specifically covered in the rule book. The most common scenario where that mod happens is KP starlets, I've done 3 or 4 of those where that mod has been done and the usual method is some strengthening the top shock mount = stitch welding the joints in the oe panel, making a brace that goes between the two top mounts and ties it back down to the floor which has a crossmember underneath If you can tie it into the cage that would be good if the bars are in a suitable place The lower mount looks fairly strong as is so maybe a bit of extra welding for peace of mind