cletus

So looking at the dyno chart, yours should be quicker as it has peak power for pretty much a full 1000rpm vs a much shorter peak on the s/c one? What rpm do you shift at and how much rpm does it drop? I'm looking forward to your exhaust upgrade on your prius powered Vitz. There's some words I never thought I'd write

Autobend in east tamaki do a range of collectors and flanges (teeheehee) Thanks for clarifying

Needs a road cone + 90deg ram air into the shroud to help cool it down

Neat! Does it have a proper clutch/gearbox/diff? The wheels look familiar too, they must have been a universal thing for mowers tractors trailers etc

My plan is to have the battery in the boot, cable runs up to a plate mounted under the dash with all the relays , coil, and ignition box mounted to it, with a insulated terminal that I can bolt the main cable, starter feed, and alternator wire to. I have heard that the alternator wire should go directly back to the battery , but not sure if that's an old wives tale or a real thing? Can probably fit one of those big 200amp? circuit breaker /fuse things at the battery in the boot if thats safer as well

Electrical question. if I'm using fused relays, do I need to run circuits through a fuse box first? Would prefer this for simplicity. Or is it better to use regular relays and a separate fuse box? Will use relays for fuel pump/fans/ignition box /etc

Just for interests sake, a mix of city and open road, sedate and enthusiastic riding= 5.76l/100km

I sent that post as a submission, hah

If you have to fit anchorages or drill holes to fit them- will need cert. If the car has factory anchorages but never had belts fitted - I doubt you would have any trouble, as nobody would be able to tell it didn't have them originally I know of quite a few cars that have had belts fitted into unused original anchorages to pass compliance with no cert required, there wouldn't be anything to certify if there's no new anchorages

I doubt the general population will swallow having to pay over 50% of the cost of fuel in taxes, pay over $3 a litre for fuel, and then also pay an extra fee per kilometer, knowing that the money will be used for things that aren't to do with transport, while also having to endure the pot holed goat track that is called a "road" in nz, while also only being allowed to traverse that road at a reduced rate of speed compared to 5 years ago But hey, tell us that each individual has their own luminescence, yeah that will make it OK

On behalf of my people I thank you for your consideration of others I've noticed a lot of priuses/aquas/leaves that have drivers who are fixated on economy drive in a manner which frustrates others, ie braking miles away from lights to maximize regen braking, and accelerating as if their testicles are attached to the bottom of their right foot

https://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/entry-certification/reference-materials/non-structural-cosmetic-damage/minorcosmetic-damage-rear-quarter-panel-and-dogleg Example of stuff that is considered 'minor' and does not require a repair cert on a car that is being complied, from the repair certifier virm

If it reg on hold, number one thing would be to go to a aa/vtnz/vinz that deals in re registrations and get a new vin number put on it. That might take a while for the paperwork to be approved but if he can show its the same car just the tag is missing, it should be do able Once that's sorted , sort out the cert. Aftermarket pedal box will depend on what brand it is and how it's made as to what will need changing

Nice work!

FYI https://www.lvvta.org.nz/media-items/2022-02-15_Effects_of_Clean_Car_Std_on_Vehicle_Enthusiast_Sector.pdf

It's the bit that threads onto the shock that damages the inside of the bag, it's like that part should have been reversed These are 85mm bottomed out 160 relaxed length 110 diameter To be fair the rest of the bag is probably on par quality wise with air lift or similar lower end US made bags. If you could use a bigger diameter one that might fix the low pressure rating and internal destruction problem at least 20220212_211137.jpg 20220212_211105.jpg 20220212_211049.jpg

I haven't certed any air bagged vehicles with aliexpress bits for ages so I dunno what the valves are like But the bags in that pic have issues, They only have a pressure rating of 110psi from memory. The smaller the bag, the more pressure you need to get it up. The small bags that are sold to fit bc coilovers are a fuckup how they are designed, they don't have enough internal clearance and they destroy themselves from the inside on the body of the shock. Also the threaded bit is designed wrong so the bag bottoms out solid before the bump stop limits the travel . Unless you fit a huge bumpstop, and have not much travel. I'll get a pic, I've got one cut in half

Yeah you have to seal the boot off from the cabin. Usually the rear firewall and parcel shelf is easy as you can do that with large flat panels . The hard part is up the insides of the pillars and rear quarter panels, that is difficult to do neatly On my plymouth I made some panels that sort of match the shape and filled behind them with expanding foam

Fraser cars in Auckland could probably make you a new one Whoever you use, make sure they follow all the LVVTA requirements, and they aren't all in the CCM

theturboforums.com https://www.hangar18fabrication.com/blowthru.html These have some info on the subject, it's American so mostly based around holley carbs but it gives you some idea of how it all works

There's a few tricks to blowing through a carb, you might find it's too difficult to get parts /jets etc to tune one of those carbs to run blow through. Suck through would probably be easier Have a look in the projects thread, theres a sigma in there getting a supercharger install If it's a 1.6 it might be easier to put a bigger engine in instead

Fitted some little indicators and got rid of the rest of the rear guard so that's about it for mods on this I might paint some of the silver/grey bits black as it looks a bit odd having so many different colors imo

Yeah if it's all factory stuff and it locks the same as original it will be OK Aftermarket rails are mostly shit so you can't do that with them If you compare an oe rail designed to take seat belt loads vs your typical nzkw or whatever aftermarket rail you will see the difference easily

Doubler plates is fine, but its probably better/easier if you can still mount the buckle to the original mount? Especially if the original buckle is kinda short it can be difficult to get it in a good spot when allowing for seat travel

Sounds OK, 3mm will be fine, put lock washers everywhere, use 8mm bolts minimum, if the recaros have 6x 6mm bolts that's OK but make sure you fit all 6 I assume the factory seat belt anchorage for the buckle is on the oe seat rails?