cletus

I'll find out what exactly was done, but the trans in my chev was rebuilt recently before I got it, it had a few things done to it because it was mostly used for towing It shifts quite hard, and had a few upgraded parts. It wasn't cheap

iT b0lTs oN sO iTs gOOd It A kIT I bRoUgT fRoM aMuurica

Most of the time that sort of thing has to be welded. You might be able to get an exemption from lvvta if you followed the right process but it might be more hassle than its worth. You would probably need to modify parts of it anyway for it to comply so may as well just weld it in Like tortron said its probably to do with the skill level of the installer in its home market, like many other things, the fact that something bolts in/on in america is a big selling point

Unfortunately once you have been stickered for exhaust noise, you need an exhaust noise cert regardless of if you put a standard exhaust back on

There has only been 1 update to the engine and driveline chapter since 2010 in the CCM Frontal impact standard is on the LVVTA website https://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Frontal_Impact.pdf

If they meet the requirements for not having upper anchorages , yes

Theres nothing in the lvvta rules that mentions the date on a harness Scratch built vehicle 100% must have upper anchorages There are other requirements when you use harness belts which may affect your decision to use them, if it's just a cost thing CCM is available free to download now , that and the frontal impact standard on lvvta.org.nz should have all the info you need

From memory I've only bothered to bench bleed once or twice ever, regular old "pump it up hold it down " bleeding has always worked for me

Probably easiest to grab 2 pipes off a master cyl at pap, just snip them off long enough that you can bend them up and over into the reservoir If it was me I'd try the vac bleeder first just to avoid getting brake fluid all over the place if you can worst case you can still do the pipes into the reservoir method once it's in the car

Usual bench bleed method is to make some short pipes that screw into the outlets and go into the reservoir below the fluid level so you pump fluid around and around until you get air bubbles out of the cylinder

Are you talking about just using the lap part only? Not the shoulder belts/ball squasher? That wouldn't be legal either as a belt has to be used as a set. I had a quick look for lever latch style belts if that's the look you are after but couldnt find any with a standard marking Your other potential problem is there is a rule to do with lap belts in the front of cars, post 55 should be lap and diagonal, apart from the vehicles that meet the requirements for not having to have an upper anchorage . One of those exemptions is, in some cases, a car can retain it's original lap belts if they are in good condition, but as soon as you fit a replacement belt then it has to be lap and diagonal. Have had that come up a few times where someone with a mustang or camaro thinks they are doing the right thing by fitting nice new lap belts but that tips it into needing upper anchorages fitting and cert

Have heard yarns of people working in chrome shops having very poor teeth because of the chemicals?

Neat project! Looks pretty solid for its age I had a valiant that was dereg since the 90s, nothing came up on carjam but it was on NZTAs database

And rummaged in my box of coilovers , I've got a plan to make some rear shocks for it The biggest problem with the usual axle flip (the diff housing gets put on top of the spring instead of underneath) is shock angles- they are on a big angle factory, then when it gets lowered 6 inches the shocks end up on stupid angles and dont do anything so the big lump of a diff flops around all over the place The best driving slammed ones, have the shock brackets moved to straighten them up, and decent shocks so they actually have some hope of controlling all the unsprung weight I've got 3 pairs of adjustable damping shocks with the same threads so I'll figure out the best length and make some top and bottom mounts

Have been collecting parts for slammage, got some new belltech spindles and 3" lower springs. Called into a workshop and a guy there had bought a C10 and wasn't going to use a lot of parts on it so I got some spring mount plates and axle flip brackets , and set of 15x8 factory earlier model steelies for $100 so that was a good score, gives me another wheel option, I'll get them powdercoated silver and hopefully the stock 98 center caps work I like this one , it has later model van center caps though

Just keep in mind if you change it, then it's a modification post 92 and it would have to be certed as per the rules of now

Will be fine as its pre 92. Date of first registration proves the belts are fitted prior to 92, as it would have been a requirement to have lap and diagonal belts fitted when it was first registered in 89

What is the date of first registration on the cars? It's on the rego label

I think the ones I was talking about were a much smaller seperate handbrake caliper that were no good I have certed something with those 4 pot calipers with the handbrake inside, I have a vague memory of the handbrake lever ratio having to be spot on or there isn't enough force for them to work properly

It's at the stage now where it looks like I've done fuck all Which is sort of true. Have been too busy to get a lot of time on it But have been chipping away at small jobs Carb rebuilt Alternator mounts made Throttle cable done Mod and painted the carb hat Calipers cleaned up and painted Radiator finished Hose shapes mocked up just have to find something that sort of fits Turbo oil drain 90% sorted just need a fitting for the block end Takes ages when everything needs blasting and painting and then it seems best to leave it for a week to harden properly

Use a cup brush, any bog that doesnt come off must be stuck well enough to stay, more bog over the top, done. I'll show myself out

I'm hopeful, although realistic about it not being, as effective on a petrol engine. Chev came with a set of new unused headers that get rid of egr. needs all the help it can get to use less fuel haha

I had a customer get caught out by that rule, he'd had a full turbo back flash exhaust fitted on his late model v8 landcruiser and didnt have the dpf any more... They are quite expensive new, apparently. haha

What year is it?

Egr blocked off on my diesel van made a noticeable increase in fuel economy as well