cletus

technically any mod after the cert voids it. where is the sticker stuck on?

of course you may. design of the mount bracket is just as important as what its made of . what is this for, your diesel van?

satin. hides a multitude of sins. ha ha

ooohhhh bettyyyyy... it is a bit of an odd colour in photos, depending on the lighting... im hoping it looks good against the black. my dog is black with bronze/tan feet so thats what i thought id do, then i found this and was sold.... after looking at 188364373 pics of black cars with bronze wheels

yes you would need cert

not much done on this lately, been busy working on the ute. did go to fathers day drags, improved best time slightly to a 12.61 @109 have put tridens back on for now, have pinched the eagers for the ute- they look better on the wider rims, which wont fit on the VG. put some skid tyres on the wide VG steels- 165/70/14 on a 7 1/2 rim, looks funny. should smoke those up well.

a van full of awesome wheels done. will use stock hubcaps as well

are you going to use the engines original ecu? might be easier to just wire it up so it is still auto. also, if it is an a340, i heard rumors that you could use an early hiace valvebody which is still hydraulic. however i didnt do any research so i might be full of shite. also, there is info about a340s on here i believe.somewhere. www.lextreme.com /probably just enough info to get your hopes up

count me in as well.

last time i asked lvvta if we could do that they said the only thing we can do a plate 'adjustment' for is a wheel size change. otherwise its a re cert. only have to look at whats been modified since last cert, so its not too hard, still expensive though seems to be the latest thing that cops and testing stations have been super tough on lately too, cars that dont match the cert plate 100%. had a guy the other day that was certed for 18'' wheels on a gtr skyline, put original wheels on to go to the drags and got pink stickerd for it.

if you have an authority card, the seats can be fixed, if not then the drivers one must be adjustable. you can make your own rails. are your belt buckles mounted off the seat frame?

depends if it has been done in a "tradesmanlike manner" and the welding is acceptable. ie if it looks shitty, then probably not. doesnt have to have been done by a ticketed welder if its strengthening what was already there. would definetly need lvv cert as a repair cert only covers repairs back to standard.

that got changed in the last hobby car manual update, can now have solid engine mounts with rubber gearbag mount. dont get a urethane/nolathane bush and run a bolt right thru the mount/xmember/bush like a lot of people do, specially with rotaries. if you are going to do that use a solid bush, steel or alloy, if using a compressible bush, the bolt can never be 100% tight and will come loose or oval out the mount holes

steel is a much more manly material anyway

depends on how big the strut top hole is, id make it from 5mm minimum to be on the safe side. there isnt a minimum size in a book or anything. have seen a few cracked ones in cars that have a big strut top eg subarus, they are usually 5-6mm, but aluminium

cheers guys aim of project achieved, and i havnt even finished, ha

pics>words

chevs are a bit of a prick to get in a commode. starter motor requires same real estate as steering rack as well as sump/oil pump clearance issues. you can get a kit to put an older smallblock chev in one which requires the crossmember to be shifted down which cocks up the steering arm angles if its lowered at all

if your springs look like this then they can usually be cut as the end is plain not tapered to a flat end. the spring seat is designed to take a spring like this if your spring is like this it cant be cut unless its modified by a spring specialist to flatten the bottom coil like durty mentioned. on a falcon, be careful going any lower than a set of aftermarket springs, they usually dont have much travel anyway, and the shock gets close to bottoming out, and the upper balljoint can bind up

A common rust trap on valiants is the plenum area under the windscreen. the heater gets fresh air from in here thru the vent. inside the plenum is not painted very well and has a couple of bits where water/leaves/dirt can sit and rust, and repairing rust is a prick, you really have to cut off the top, fix the rust and seal it all back up again. this one was pretty good, but as the heater didnt work anyway, and its going to be living outside and i hate wet carpets i decided to seal it up so it cant ever leak...

exhaust requirements and wording as to where it comes out in the first part of this http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards ... ssions.pdf

http://lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplement ... eshold.pdf here is the list of things that you can do WITHOUT a cert.

you can run braided line right up the car i do remember something somewhere about a maximum amount of flexible hose like what kk mentioned, i think that may be an nzdra or similar rule. i personally would use hardline where possible, its cheaper and you only have to replace a small amount of hose when its perished instead of heaps.

that is sweet. like those wheels + height.

vs? got a pic? this one isnt mine, but same thing.