cletus

engine is a runner again. shouted it a new carb as a double pumper would have been a bit over the top for this engine, now has 500cfm vac sec edelbrock, hoping it will be fairly economical. also have rebuilt front suspension, i pulled it apart to replace one bent arm, and found as per every other valiant ive owned, everything was knackered.

yep shaft is the same

did you figure out why it overheated? i thought vws were pretty much impossible to cook unless the fan stops working or the shrouds arent fitted properly

nein. would need cert.

check when you put the front ones on that they dont rub the tie rod ends, from memory they are pretty close and if the wheels have been wided inwards, you may have issues. should look sweet though! looks tidy.

some of the worst welding on cars ive ever seen was done by 'ticketed welders' zapping 6mm plate steel together all day is a bit different to 0.8mm toyota firewalls

aftermarket tie rod ends- if they are stock replacements, no, if they change the geometry at all- bumpsteer check with cert. main reason for knocking back rose/heim joints would be cheap nasty ones, brass lined, or ones that taper down thinner than the threaded part where they are pressed together, a lot of cheap china arms use crap joints which last about 7 minutes before developing play. also some arms are a design cockup, eg they bind or hit on the body worse than the original ones do, or load a heim joint incorrectly, stuff like that.

kevlar or teflon is fine.

can be sorted if there is some proof that the engine was never a 4 cyl. lvvta could tell you who certed it if you give them the cert plate number, you cant order a replacement plate direct from them it has to be thru a certifier.

no qualifications needed, you may need to show your certifier you can weld though. youd be fine

its not as common as it used to be, a proper dropped axle isnt as expensive these days. i doubt many people would do a full fendered car (40-on) with a dropped stock axle that isnt a ford, most end up with some sort of independent front end

asked about this today, there are a couple of nzhra approved engineers who can do it, and they are the only ones who can for cert purposes. Dave Mcdougall is the one i can remember. one issue is the type of axle it is, the only jigs available will be for early ford, not other types

should be do-able stolen from somewhere on the internet; When a vehicle’s details are recorded incorrectly on the Motor Vehicle Register (MVR), these can be corrected by sending an Application to Change Vehicle Details (form MR16, available at any Land Transport NZ agent) to Land Transport New Zealand. Most MR16 forms need to be sent with supporting documentation to prove that the information recorded on the MVR is incorrect i.e. if the vehicle model is recorded incorrectly we would require documents from the manufacturer to prove this before a change would be made. as far as the cert plate, i could get you another one made for a reasonable cost with the correct details

had a look thru your build thread, tidy car! looks good on those smaller wheels.

plates have become a lot more "descriptive" lately, depends on what the certifier put on the plate order form. it should really be on there, steering mods should definitely be on there, your diff had been moved foward as well hasnt it? and joker is right, center of hub- guard lip

welding cast or forged suspension or steering parts cant be done full stop, tig, mig, arc, hot glue gun, doesnt matter. looking at those pics, are you sure they are a cast arm? i couldnt see 100% from those, i googled mk2 cortina lower arm and it came up with a cast arm that looks different to the pics, more like an escort one. and i seem to have some fuzzy memory of some early ford arms being made of steel welded together that look kinda like the pics of the anglia ones. id be surprised if a certifier hadnt picked that up, as there is a bit going on at the moment with BC struts that have cast bits welded to mild steel, that we have had infosheets on, and training sessions about it all.

fine thread would be better but there isnt a rule saying it has to be. exhaust will be ok as long as you can keep it from rattling in that hole. decent mounts should stop it. you and Bart doing those rear camber adjusters?

bleed nipples have to be at the top or the air cant get out. if you cant swap the calipers over for some reason you can cheat by taking the caliper off and turn it so the bleeder is facing up, bleed it then put the caliper back on. looks like you cant do that without undoing the brake pipe though.....

towbars= you guys are right, there is no requirements for cert or anything for tow bars on light vehicles.

if you are going to do that, i would slot the holes then weld a heavy washer over the hole in the correct position.

there should be a spare chair in my car as well plan- drive to pukekohe sat morning to pick up correct old car from storage, meet at bp picking up 2 near hahei, im staying sat night at my brothers place in whitianga, home again on sunday.

nope

http://oldschool.co....2-escort/'] Good start!

first time i saw one of those i had an actual LOL as if putting stickers on wasnt easy enough already