cletus

More computer questions sorry My laptop does this sometimes and takes aaaaaaaages Last time I thought it was broken because it was stuck like this for a few hours but it eventually worked, I deleted a million files and it made it work faster , figured it took ages because it hadn't been connected to internet for 6 months so had a lot of updates to do This morning it's been slow as again, restarted it and it's been blue screen for about an hour Why the thing do that?

a couple of thoughts on your drawing it may make life easier to use a triangulated 4 bar rather than a tri upper link. the reason for that is LVVTA does not allow threaded rod ends to be used when there is a bending load on the threads, unless the joint is rated for the load. i have been part of a discussion on this and the solution suggested was quite involved and required a lot of engineering for it to work. there are other ways of doing it but its probably easier to run 2 seperate straight bars you can download the CCM free from lvvta.org.nz have a read of the suspension chapter there is a bit of info in there on link suspension. you will need to run rod ends/spherical bearings/heim joints for your upper bars at least if using a triangulated 4 bar, bushes have too much deflection unless using similar angles to a factory vehicle ie top bars at 90deg to each other- which wouldnt work well for air suspension. your forward crossmember will likely need triangulating back to the chassis as the loading is in the middle, that's why the narrow end is usually at the diff on a factory setup. top bars look like they would hit the bag mounts at full extension unless you mount the bars high now is the time to figure out what youre going to do long term, if its going to have an engine swap or 5 stud swap or anything like that, need to factor things like that in. you dont want to build a suspension that is ok with a stock z24 but then swap in something with more beans later that then has terrible axle tramp or handling problems hope this helps, been there and fucked it up myself haha

This guy has some interesting videos on suspension stuff

Network security key when setting up a printer. This is the password on the card that comes with the modem, yes? Can get everything else to work on wifi with this , but not the printer

I had a navara a million years ago that was bagged, same diff as you have. I did a parallel 4 bar with a panhard Panhard is not ideal but if you set it up right theres not a huge amount of movement,obviously watts link would be better.

Was just minding my business and this follwed me home from @RX FORD's workshop I have no need for it but when has that ever stopped anyone? 660cc of twin cam carburetted 3 cylinder,transferring all its fury through an auto gearbox. It actually goes better than id expected it would,and despite being comically small,it has plenty of interior room even for a generously proportioned gentleman such as myself im not sure what ill do with it but ill tidy a few things up,get a wof and maybe some slam/wheels. My daughter has claimed it already, shes 11 so a way off needing a car but i found a big empty carpark and she had a driving lesson

https://www.boefab.com/blogs/tech/72880067-k-n-hp-2009-filter-comparison Interesting,i wonder if the fact they are a restriction means the pump couldnt overcome the valve/left a big bubble of air for the duration that filter has been fitted? Is this engine in a sunbeam alpine/tiger?

Is the filter remote mounted? Have heard of those being hooked up the wrong way round and causing issues

Shitchea I'm stoked to see it done! This has to be the biggest turn around from holy-shit-that-is-turbo-rustfucked, to mint, in the history of OS Great work!

Sweet! I look forward to seeing what you do with this one!

There may be less things it has to comply with if it's over 20 years old, but it still has to be complied. Rust or previous damage/repairs is usually the biggest headache

Always be wary of a car dealer selling cars that are not complied. It may just be they cbf, but more often it's the fact they know there's something wrong with it . Otherwise if it was easy they would just get it complied and legal and sell at a greater profit

Good good good. Much betterer at corners, feels more accurate,no longer have to do mid corner adjustments. Painted some bits black,fucked them up, got a new gun and some new paint minus the lumps, painted them again, acceptable. A quick whiz in the drill on a rag with autosol, on some of the stainless bolts makes them look better. There's more silver bits to paint but I'll do that later 

They have one in stock currently

Nice work on this. My first road car was an escort van so it triggers a few memories Including the time I put a 1600 in it And removed it again to put dents in the 1300 sump to clear the rod bolts And removed it again to make sure the dents were big enough because it still made a knock noise Then removed it a third time to discover the 1300 oil pickup tube is different as well and the rod bolts had been hitting that as well. Aahhh, memories.

I ignored a minor fork seal leak for a while, the other day I thought I'd go for a ride but noticed a puddle of oil on the wheel so figured it wasn't minor any more Forks out to get seals done , may as well give it a front end once over so it's getting a new front tyre, pads and a bleed plus paint some bits black. It's always been a bit funny on entry to a corner- kind of unsettled with weight on the front end so I'm hoping a new tyre plus fork service sorts that out. The tyre passed a wof but the sides particularly one side was borderline, plus had some slight cupping on the tread I had Bridgestone S21 on my last bike and they were good so I'm getting an S22 this time, the rear tyre was new when I got the bike, its still got half tread so that will go again for now and I'll get a matching s22 when it needs it. I'm kind of surprised how fast the rear tyre has worn, it has avon spirit STs on it at the moment which seem good in the wet but has a lot of tread grooves, which are quite feathered on the edges

Probably need to figure out how far you want to go and what the intended use will be, and that will help decide Not just engine,but how far you want to go with steering and suspension mods to go with it. Ie if you want to stick with easy bolt on brake upgrades,then a mx5 engine for example might be a good swap,but if you want to put a turbo k24 in then you probably need to do a bit more work on handling etc.

I can't see any reason why not if it's attached correctly.

Was talking to a mate yesterday about this sort of thing yesterday after he got quoted 3k or something stupid like that to replace a proximity key , I have come to the conclusion that if a car doesn't have a key you poke into the ignition then it's too new and I don't want to know about it. Even better Regards,your friend the cave man.

I would think that would be a repair not a modification

Fitted 2 step, had a tutu around with different rpm settings , non drag strip testing is impossible, as as soon as you let the button go it just draws 11s. But it will make 7psi on the footbrake and not creep forward

Have a read of the CCM fuel system chapter as well, a surge tank will either need to be inside a sealed box with a drain to outside , or you will need to seal the boot from the passenger compartment 100%

Last lot I got off rockauto( if you're not in a hurry)

Are there any engineering/rego rules in Australia with modified fuel systems? Only reason I ask is in nz, you aren't allowed to fit a fuel tank forward of the front axle centerline, which has caught a couple of people out with those Fitech things