DB8-TypeR

Sooo Ben, I see that Jags pull the lady's....... Looked good parked up at West End

Sweet, a guy at work has his terrano running 18psi (wastegate doesnt even open) with intercooler and 2.5" exhaust. Sounds sweet as goes pretty damn well too

Honestly it would almost be cheaper to get another motor like you have and throw that in rather than do the headhgasket. I took my old SOHC ZC to the scrap dealer as I couldnt give it away

Was just thinking how awesome it was, then saw skids on the road. Fail

Just a few steering wheels, front arm rest and some speakers really Mine has its fair share of paint issues, its an old car though so I dont expect it to be perfect. You can sometimes find Si Civics or CRX's cheap, usually have really high kms though

With those wheels it goes exactly nowhere very quickly, one just turns to smoke, then the other They are 165/65/14 I think, quite worn and slippery Its sold, new owner picks it up Saturday. Have driven it twice in two months, dont need three cars, especially when I get picked up for work each day. Have owned it 4years now. I like how you one looks, wish I had left mine with the factory engine

Factory 14" steels look weak when low: Thats it raised up about 20mm

How did you manage to get passengers out on Taupo without a MANZ approved rollcage, seat and harness?

Dont bother with dynamat on the floor, use dynaliner: http://www.dynamat.co.nz/dynaliner.html

Put spats over the wheels?

The more you lower the more Toe you get with these, get them to reset toe to Zero on the rear and close to zero on the front

Did you crash the white one? I suggest you find out what the timing is beore guessing it as you will just create more faults to fault find

For a rear one try find any Honda one that is adjustable length. Shuttle is narrowest so you will need to cut one of the ends (the one that doesnt have reverse thread) and tap it out further. This is what I did, cost $15 all up, the thread is usually M18. Front and rear braces make a massive difference, one of the best mods ive done to mine. Dont bother with a C Pillar brace, they dont do much at all. Rear sway bar would also be a massive help, I CBF putting one on mine

Install front and rear strut braces and make it handle much better. Add small diameter steering wheel and it then feels more go-kart like. Oh and go to pick a part and get the shifter from and Integra or Civic as they are shorter than a Shuttles one.

The old couple who live across the road from my parents had a extra high extra long garage as part of their house for the CamperVan and they have marine carpet in there, also park their daily Daihatsu thingy in there if its been in the rain or not. My garage floor is painted, or it was in the 60's but its peeling off so I will repaint it at some stage, its really worth it

Mugen intake is awesome isnt it, I have one on my Type R and one for my CRV. Am also now running more camber in the rear (-4degrees) and the turn in is significantly better, handles even better now

If you wanted to save money I assume you know that being the house owner you are able to carry out this work yourself. Particularly if you were just swapping fitting for fitting(shed lights), seems a shame to pay someone a decent amount of money for something you can do in an hour or so. I can understand not wanting to add new switch etc

Firestone are GC's from my experiance. Beaurepaires boss is a crook Havnt tried that newish place down Te Tahi Street yet though

Also Jaycar sells a nice camera system with 2-4 cameras recording onto a HDD. Could be worth setting up? They are only a couple hundred $$

I bet it sounds like the devil himself gargling the souls of the damned at 7000rpm. Are you able to fit a velocity stack type thing into your OEM intake box? I run a similar set up in my ITR now and keeps it quiet but makes good power

If its a 4wire one, hook it up to a 12v power supply then connect multimeter to sensing wires. Let it heat up and then cover it in a rag soaked in Brakleen or something. Should read 5v or thereabouts

Ahh yep I thought they would be, as there is no way it could possibly be that low with stock shocks and just lowering springs

Honestly if you have such short springs in there you can just whip the tophats right off. Of course undo the nut slowly but the springs should become uncaptive before the nut comes off. Unless of course your shocks have been shortened

Furry Muff, I just like how you can have black front lip, black side skirts then finish it off with a black rear lip.

If you can find a DA Integra Front lip at the wreckers with a heatgun and a sharp knife you can make a pretty decent rear lip that matches the front nicely