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Testament

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Everything posted by Testament

  1. what do you mean dave? rookie never makes mistakes
  2. yup, not to do with lobe pulses but the log. as said runners are basically non existent and #1 is directly infront of the S/C and #2 is very close but #3 and #4 are two 90 deg right turns and 75mm and 150mm of log away at 45mmish diameter, which is about the same as the port and valve sizes. The lobe pulses may have some other effects, and the bypass valve is between #2 and #3 so that will have some other effects too. just all about solving problems no one else ever has because of one else has been silly enough to persist with quite the same setup.
  3. These are xSpurt 1000cc/rebranded ID1000s, not the china 1000's The pressure drop difference occurs at all rpms, the blower puts 1.6L of air in every rotation of the engine but its easier for that air to get into cylinder 1 and 2 than 3 or especially 4, so even though only 1 inlet valve is open at a time there will still be a difference, more residual pressure in the manifold than reaching the cylinder in a given time. As rpm increases and there is less time for the air to move, the relative difference may change slightly one way or the other (not sure which way). As pressure increases with boost the relative difference will be less.
  4. so have been making adjustments every morning and afternoon driving to/from work mucking with idle/coldstart and datalogging. slowly getting better. the intake backfire is definitely from lean conditions not ignition. comes and goes with fuelling changes. have got rid of most of it now by blending in some mapDOT acceleration enrichment and adjusting the fuelling. still needs the full sequential setup though, there is a dull miss (probably from too rich) even at idle which must be from the uneven air fuel ratios, which would also explain why it seems to need a richer mixture than you would think - e.g mid load cruise 75kPa just over 13:1 when you would think 14:1 would be ok even with the S/C.
  5. swapping to a different Toyota diesel would probably be better than turboing the 3b. but in either case it would be a project if you have not done that exact swap before, or have someone on hand who has. better just taking a chill pill and leaving well alone although chilling out and driving sedately is usually a difficult thing for card carrying gun swinging fleece wearing hunter types around here
  6. nah you are right, logging map ahead of the supercharger could be quite useful too. the throttle body is on the large size which amy not be helping either, 65mm off an EL falcon or similar which works out for the power level but maybe with the lighter car could do with a more progressive bellcrank, as at low engine speed 1/4 throttle is basically 100%. once throttle opening area is gets close to the 35mm bypass valve area its going to lose vacuum, shut and go straight to more or less full boost. do you know what clock speed the link ecus run? it's weird their website doesn't seem to list it the microsquirt runs at 24mhz
  7. bypass valve is a factory thing off a late model supercharged mini. It has a vacuum operated actuator, so purely mechanical. it runs off the vacuum in the supercharger inlet elbow and closes when that drops as the throttle opens. the bypass loop is entirely downstream of the throttle plate so don't think bleeding off boost is the right way to explain it but whatever. my feeling is the full sequential will help a bunch, and getting the air fuels evened out will be mostly a fixed offset that maybe tapers off with boost and gets worse a little with speed. but yeah latency in the bypass valve response and whatnot, I dunno. I think some factory supercharged setups have multiport solenoid valves to supposedly make better driveability but I have also heard its a thing to just rip those off supercharged mr2s and stuff like that too and not even worry about it
  8. Terrible lol I need to spend a day with a clear head just tuning it to minimise some of the strange misses and stumbles at small throttle movements as best as I can, but haven't had the luxury with whats been going on at work lately so barely managed to jam it back together to drive up on Saturday. but pretty sure a bunch of it is down to the log inlet manifold causing uneven airflows between the cylinders, resulting in significantly different air fuel ratios. So actually have bought a monsoon to put on it so I can get full sequential with cylinder trimming, and umming and ahhhing about wire transferring money to Poland to get an ecumaster can-egt box haha. the other thing I was discussing with rookiedave was going from speed density to dual table alpha-n and speed density boost compensation/reference, which should give more resolution with throttle movement, as with the supercharger running speed density/map only it goes from vacuum to boost so quickly you end up in the same cells all the time even with different throttle openings and driving conditions. only thing is not sure how to tune that with the supercharger, as you need to tune the alpha-n with no boost first. not so simple as taking the wastegate springs out. maybe I can take the belt off the supercharger and cable tie the bypass valve open or something. at least the bypass valve works though, inlet temps cruising on the open road have gone from 80+ to around 50 now
  9. yeah will depend on the gauge if its two point or three point thing and how it is intended to be setup. some of them are intended to be setup on a test ring of a known ID three point ones are more likely to be like this. two point ones could be setup with gauge blocks where you set your gauge block stack and then have anvil pieces that go on either end so you can measure in between. often there are several ways to do these things depending what tools you have, how much time you can spend and what accuracy is necessary
  10. its isocyanate stuff as bad as 2 part epoxy stuff. I did by jeep interior floor inside ages ago even outside with all the windows open and brushing it on I was not entirely well for a few days after from having my head too close to the stuff when painting. would def use respirator if its anything where you are less than arms length from it while putting it on the metal ready prep stuff is great though. I have put than on bare steel and nearly 10 years on inside garage with no paint its still fine. for single pack ive had much better experience with Wattyl killrust. just takes a while to set is all. prepped with metal ready then brushed on jeep bumper only rust is where I have scratched through the paint and even that is naff all on something that gets scratched on all the things in the bush. I think brunox gets mentioned as another decent one for when you need to paint things in non ideal situations with a single pack. I have some but haven't used it yet. but when you can 2 pack is definitely the way. once you understand the process and buy one of those 3m respirators it is way better sprayed or brushed on. durepox black primer for everything now.
  11. I dunno, I think if you counted your time it would be easily cheaper to just buy the ecu with more I/O to start with. It's one of those things where when you have don't it and your more or less repeating a setup you have done before you might say yeah I can make a saving this way plug it together and know it will work easily. but when you haven't done it before and you have to spend several full days (when you add up your research time etc.) not a chance. I mean if you want to learn canbus stuff then that's the learning budget so maybe fine. but people sure love to say oh you can do it this way and save so much and 99.99% of the time its a load of bollocks. my experience is that its not tuners not wanting to tune megasquirts, its tuners not wanting to deal with dodgy installs that have all sorts of other problems when you taken them to the dyno. been there done that and seen mates setups have the same issue. on top of that, just being less familiar with them it will invariably take more time vs using software or doing troubleshooting on something they work with very often. to be fair the prices have definitely come closer with the link atom and monsoon now, when you factor in shipping GST and customs plus the additional features the links have in some cases you are talking a few hundred dollars. if that means your car gets started and tuned in half the time that's probably worthwhile. this is really the case, provided you are so inclined and interested in learning this kind of stuff. because of the diy nature of megasquirt its all about the installation being done well and troubleshooted well on setup/startup. which you have to do and fuck up a few things to learn how to do it right really. there a are a few naff things about them but none that make them dangerous to your engine any more than other potential failure modes
  12. 1 degree = 10mm if you measure at an effective wheel diameter of 575mm according to the info sheet
  13. yeah powerglide coolant pump and vent filter
  14. I liked the part where you said this car is getting a powerglide and a transbrake
  15. so with some help from a cam and a dave it goes back in the hole, and all bolts up right? well sort of does bolt up. after shortening driveshaft by 95mm but its doesn't fit until you hit the things with hammers and cut and weld this and that more cad design implementations then with the winds of good luck it may be a roadworthy car again one day soon
  16. because old man pants decided to take out the on/off 6 puck solid centre 200mm clutch and 6kg flywheel and swap to a OEM cast iron flywheel, but modified to take an early integrale 8v 230mm push type clutch and pressure plate I found on amazon for a bargain after extensive part number googling but nothing too simple of course. OEM flywheel from fiat 131 is for a 215mm clutch so the friction face is too small, and all the dowels and bolt holes are in the wrong spots by just a little bit. so had to machine it down to flat on big lathe at work, then machine a step with 230mm diameter, then setup in the mill and drill and tap for dowels and bolts offset to the original clutch ones, and make some new dowels to suit.
  17. fully detailed CAD model of new sump baffling using davescience software as an upgrade to the low weight low drag baffling of the original fiat design and boogered up
  18. some bits were still ok compared some sumps while I was there, left argenta, right 131 commodore LS1
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