Testament

But how many people want to buy such items? They dont typically break those things if you already have an 80's ford Thunderbird either

$1k LOL

depends on the NDT method. visual inspection is important too. just because it doesn't have a crack doesn't make it adequate. no NDT is not fool proof, it's not the kind of thing fools should be involved in though.

if only we had to design drag cars at uni I would have used them all up

dave is right on this lancia never declutched the supercharger or had anything to do that (and go wrong) henry toivonnen wasnt gonna lift so why declutch it? +1 my car does not have an idle bypass and the idle and esp decel IAT's go nuts, like from 70-80 degrees under load (no intercooler) to 120 degrees when you engine brake from high rpm.

Measured some stuff and things and did some doodling still have to work out where this puts the coilovers exactly, and bear in mind those numbers are not at an estimated ride height but just for definition of the relationship between the locations with respect to axle centerline which can then be played with to describe whats where with varying tyre size and ride height

its only the part way behind the axle though and I have a plan for the coilover bar. the chassis rails are actually relatively thick - thicker than I was expecting. yet to be seen how they will take a weld though. 8.8's only came in the later cars post 85 or 87 or something like that. also the fox body 8.8s have ears cast into the center section for the top suspension bushes so you cant use an explorer one as it doesnt have those and welding onto the cast centre section would suck. the cost of importing a mustang 8.8 then putting axles etc. in it was quite a bit more than going hilux. then ford 9 inch was even more again. I figure Im going to be doing damn well to break 30spline hilux axles with new 3.73 gears and a v6/e-locker 3rd member and carrier.

this is quite wrong. I only cut the rear well out because I got carried away/figured it would make welding in the coil over bar and ARB easier. I have to weld subframe connectors/chassis sittfeners in regardless but thats in the front half and makes no difference/is the same regardless of what I do in the back. the only welding on the factory mounts is seam welding, and welding a couple of rollcage bars to plates welded in to those areas plus a couple of small plates and washers below to strengthen things up the only cutting of the OEM suspension points is minor stuff around the corners of the mini tub install. the real question is whether I can get enough adjustment at the diff end to put the instant center far enough forward to tame the car after the hit IF it actually ends up have enough power that it needs to be "tamed" which can be acheived by raising the car if it comes to it. going to measure some stuff now to figure where the arms are likely to end up

What? ship it to Denmark?

Dave you think the car is terrible and will still do so regardless of what I do. (tbh I know it's a giant turd anyway) you just aren't doing a good job on convincing me in a constructive manner using facts and benefits it just seems like you are trying to use histrionics to justify your own opinion. Which you know only gets your back up when the shoe is on the other foot. E.G. give me some costs and benefits, pros and cons so I can judge the rate of return on investment and what it's worth to me yes I know ultimately in a drag car a full back half 4 link and panhard is superior to an OEM triangulated 4 link will it actually make the car faster in this case? I think unlikely and the difference is probably irrelevant the the scheme of things. It's going to be on coilovers so if it doesnt work down low its not too hard to jack it up to run a number. yes I know it will let me get more slammed which is pretty cool it would be nice but is it worth it for "maybe" 50mm more loweness? but it means throwning away or cutting up suspension arms, diff mount brackets, anti roll bar, mini tub kit and probably a few other things this hurts the pocket and ones gestalt significantly adds the time of cutting out more of the car ok maybe not that much time, but another evening or so. designing the back half and 4 link + panhard setup significantly more time, probably two weeks design and getting stuff plasma cut vs. no holdups/already have nearly everything I need purchasing additional materials to build such back half and extra arms $500-$1000 additional cost time to construct and install said back half, minimum one weekend drop spindles (putting aside cert issues) $1700 plus throwing away the 5 stud ones I have already bought so spending another ~$2500 and throwing away i don't want to think about how much for the other stuff. But most importantly I only have 25 days a year to work on these things so dave tells me. the biggest factor is time and I can't see how it does not add a very significant amount to my schedule.

yeah pretty much/ USA slam spec

I will be quite happy sitting on my sofa if I can have it at this height

believe me i would like to slam it that much, but I also bought all this shit and don't want to throw it away since it's pretty much worthless to sell on trademe/wherever and I want the car running sooner rather than later. and despite what rookie says oh you can weld up a back half chassis kit in a day it's all very easy for him to say.......I appreciate it's not technically that hard (the cutting and welding etc.) but the measuring and the number of decisions to be made are what i see and taking time if you want to ensure there is no fuckup. I look at what I need to do and using the parts I have and seam welding up the factory mounts seems far more straightforward. yes it will be a bit high on the taller tyres but on the smaller tyres with a c-notch it should be pretty slammed for a silly american car but still at a certable height. PS that lovely starlet is a cheating toyota/nissan with factory channelled body and is at an uncertable height no doubt/irrelphant

drop spindles exist but I dont think they are certable/mig welded in the yooessaye by mexicans

well you guys sponsor me some tested certable drop spindles for the front that will bolt straight up to all the other stuff I have bought already then. when I have such items in my possession I will cut the rest of the rear out.

it's not like stock suspension pickups are going to be holding me back much

more slam more wide. while I like the idea of full back half I've bought too much junk i dont want to throw away so going to stick with stock body side 4 link points and can call myself a "stock suspension" racer Also I want it running this year. dave can have a wah about all that but he can also stick it in his hoo-ha

lol finish cutting out between rear chassis rails then cut slots for subframe connectors and figure outs seat mounts/seating position

Was not gonna happen, turns out drag radials have super stiff sidewalls

got 10's but 255/60/15 would not fit maori boys at the tyre shop told me they could jump through the gap between the bead and the rim so will keep eye out for some 26x10.5's or 275/50/15s I got 8s as well though so I got them put on those haven't cut the tubs yet (it is imminent) but I could shove it this far, maybe has 10mm left to the top of the wheel tub but fouling on some other junk (which is gonna get cut out anyway) will probably be sitting axle housing on frame rail at this height then tried a 235/60/14 definitely C Notch time

I dont think that buicks getting no fancy computer

ok, not having access to such tools makes it somewhat difficult/forces your hand

exactly. if you can do this then fit the crank to check it turns free its as good as its going to get. was that with plastigage or with mic's ? was there some other cockup? chances are the barry at the machine shop could cock it up worse and machine it wrong too.