kpr

^ thats what i'd be doing. cut off rubber, bolt on shorter ones. preferably 2nd hand ones so they look like they been there for ever

shouldnt too be too hard to use one of the ali trademe ones. do some measuring and find one thats closest to fitting. make up some brackets etc. something like this shouldnt be too bad to fit, since the outlets will be in right place for jz engines. long as it isnt too tall or wide: http://www.trademe.co.nz/Trade-Me-Motor ... 720459.htm

exhaust manifold finished, other than running out of paint. went on trademe one night half chopped, which wasn't my best idea ever. brought an intercooler. its huuge but fits surprisingly well. top brackets still to be made then its mounted. and yes it fits behind the bumper!(which is rooted yeh) will most likely paint black so cant be seen at all.

This what i need spencer? http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =226789771 yeh, dont pay that much for them tho. should be able to pick up some for half that price

cas or knock sensor wires, if stealing from another car. otherwise ideal eletrical, mastertrade, ja russel, etc.. will have something usable. just make sure you dont pay retail at any of those places or they will ream you.

not really. the pressure comes from sump. so you'l be plumbing back to where its coming from. so you end up with engine without a breather. may work with a decent sized breather teed in as you say tho. just plumb it into the intake before turbo if it isnt allready

more like you better not go on Saturday !

check out my project thread in my sig (Kp60) few posts down on the first page explains how i did it

would stay away from that.

guessing a normal bolt is spose to go in there and caliper has thread in it. yeh the s13 rotors were pretty cheap new from memory.

rear, 9mm thick. same thickness as ae92 ones

am running ae92 s13 combo as well.

yeh, maybe i should have worded it differently. i suggested it more for the fact that, a heavy wall mild steel manifold wont have any issues,(unless poorly constructed of course) over your average trademe special stainless one. not saying stainless wont work. just best option to steer away from them

4000rpm really? seems pretty late. i would expect boost sooner than that, with that turbo you have suggested. thinking about it more, i'd be tempted to go bigger, gt30 runs a bigger exhaust side which should be better suited to a 2.5L. gt3076r with a .82 exhaust housing might be a goer. the gt28 exhaust side just seems to small for a 1jz to me. im by far a 1jz expert, but the gt3076r would be my pick for what you want to do. a decent exhaust manifold is always a good idea. definitely stay away from stainless ones, especially if you're using it on the track. too many cracking issues. how much you gain depends on how bad the current one is, and how good the new one is. but like i say i havent had much to to with 1j's. so cant comment.

depends what power your after. in simple terms, it becomes a balance between lag and power. as for your application. that turbo should be a pretty good compromise between power and lag. should have bugger all lag really. looks very similar specs to a gt2871r (theres a few different compressor wheel trims of these) they are all rated around 400hp. i'd be tempted to go a bit bigger on the exhaust side. but depends what you want from it. for some kinda reference., as how big you can get away with. i was using a gt2876r(slightly bigger on the compressor side than above) on my 1500cc gt starlet. it didnt come on full boost till 5500rpm (about 20psi tho) so its going to come on a hell of alot sooner on a 1j. how soon? i'd be just guessing and throwing numbers out my ass. giz some more info, and can probably help further.

poor mans boost control for internal wastegates, add spring :

manifold. looks a bit wack, but equal length and runners go into collector in correct order. i ran out of pipe hence all the gaps and random bits of exhaust tube in places. so made a drop pipe

easy

will flow more tho. as hole doesn't have waste gate flapper in front of it anymore. most actuators dont open all that far.. but yeh agree, kinda stupid mounting it there unless you grind the hole out to correct size.

So if im maxing out a turbo for what its capable of producing in my case a standard Rb25 turbo at 212kw, is it likely that the standard internal wastegate wont be up to it? I only ask as the computer & engine i have now was dynod for that figure, the only difference was that he had an external wastegate of the exaust. Im keen on going back to internal wastegate to keep things simple and get a better turbo in with less play at the same time. Cheers boe Your turbo you have will be fine with internal wastegate, if it had one! What boost is that engine tuned for? Your turbos let down will be its comp wheel which shouldn't be boosted over around 12-14psi. Im not sure what model RB25 turbo you have but if you choose to sell and buy another RB turbo I would wait around and try get a 300zx T25. From what I know they are the same specs as the RB series(unsure which RB turbo or if there is a differance) turbos but with a steel wheel which will allow you to boost over 14psi if thats what you wish. But if your engine is tuned at 200+kw at treads now at say, 7psi, then you still have plenty of room to play. If you buy another turbo and choose to run internalk gate HKS make an aftermarket actuator for that turbo. I think this is just the equivilant of a stronger spring in an external gate. Now a question: Has anyone had experiance with mounting a wastegate directly off the rear housing? I,e making a new hole and welding a flange on. I know its cast. Gaz i would have thought it was shaft speed that would stuff them. for example, the shaft speed when installed on a rb25 on 12psi would be alot faster, than if it was running 12psi on a smaller/ engine that flows less air. both are running 12psi, but turbo will be required to spin faster to make that much boost on the rb25. will be making more power also. have seen a few setup on t3's, with external waste gate mounted off the internal waste gate port. both seemed to work without any issues. the housing was ported out. and was older style t3 housing with the removable internal wastegate setup (side bolts off and just leaves a hole) i acquired said turbo, but chose to run the wastegate off the manifold instead, on my setup think the 300zx turbo your talking about is actually a t3. steel exhaust wheel, and 60 trim compressor wheel(biggest t3 wheel). alot of older nissans have t3's that will interchange but have smaller compressor wheels and exhaust housings than the 300zx one.

you know what i mean. bov close to throttle flow carries on in same direction. plus you'l get a hi pressure area at the throttle plate when it snaps shut. end of the day is just a hole to let out excess pressure. its location hardly of great importance, compared to the rest of the turbo setup. / too slow. will go with hi pressure at throttle plate part

choice, stock shim setup yeh?

so air doesnt go backwards im guessing.

dyno battle? meet you half way in aucks. im getting near 90% on gt starlet 295cc's just for comparison

ahh. i was getting a little depressed there for awhile. i maxed out the stock injectors ages ago and only made 105kw. pretty impressive gains anyway even if the dyno reads a little high. any ideas what cams are in there?