kpr

Got it running again, that hydramat thing is pretty sweet. put maybe 2L max in the tank. drove it up my little hill. even parked it here for awhile, restarted sweet. no signs of running out of gas. pretty legit for a flat bottom tank.

Was going to run a drop down section like the oid tank for the fuel pickup. but the driveshaft is in the way of ideal location at rear of tank. so brought the worlds most expensive fuel pickup which is one of these things before tank was welded cut a some big holes in the baffles, so this bit of foam can go across bottom of tank and hold the hydramat down like so, that thing bolted on the left is the fuel level sender from the old tank, bent the arm so it works in here got the shits with every thread being different, so welded fittings to make my own adapters . the mat is npt, the pump is metric, then theres the an fittings and back to hard line... Fancy fuel lines. they connect to the hard lines just under the cab. had to keep the diesel fuel cap Got a bit of wiring then should be good to go

So @Stu stupidly promised to make a fuel tank along time ago. He drew this up and got it cut out for me. I hand made the inspection flange, pump and sender brackets inside, before giving it back to stu to do the final welding The old tank sat hard up against the cab and fairly high up New tank sits back further plus lower down. whole aim here is to get more weight over the rear axle and lower cog. old tank had zero baffles. so will be alot better fuel slosh wise as well. mounting cradle is a little overkill but any weight behind the door handles is ok. bit more to go here.

batch fire will be fine. its not as much of hindrance as you would think. could run the whole thing off one injector drive if you really wanted, (other than probably melting the injector driver)

10.8 on 98 pump gas, easy. probably even be fine on 95. but as above depends on a lot of other things not just compression ratio. In saying that, on an na engine what you really dont want to happen is run into knock before before ignition timing is where it needs to be. else will be throwing power away

Been dialing in the suspension. almost getting to the point that need to re-valve the shocks to go any further. basically been messing with the spring preload and switch over to the 2nd spring rate. best results so far have been setting the rear soft as possible spring wise and also softening up the hydro bumps, gone from 90psi to 50psi. Then on front have it switching to the 2nd spring rate with only 20mm travel from ride height which also stops it rolling so much. so far im thinking it needs more compression valving in the front. bit of a learning curve to figure it all out. still having a nose dive issue. my jump at the end of the vid sucks, which isnt helping the cause. can see in the vid if hold it tapped it works a little better. try roll the jump does a sweet nose dive. seems to go over the first bump fairly nice. gearing kinda sucks and have a massive leak in the inlet manifold which isnt helping the cause. / need bigger paddock side effect of less pressure in bumpstops. that tuck

driveshaft shortened decided to shorten the front half (2 piece) so didnt put the unis under any more angle. meant had to move the driveshaft hanger forwards finished. plenty of clearance... rear has more up travel and the way the hydro bumps load up, makes the front flex a bit more. so things getting tight. even though over all have lost a little flex. still messing around with a few things setup wise. but the new shocks seem to be working better out of the box than the old ones. ended up going with 2x 80lb springs on each corner back there, so yep thats a 40lb spring rate on the rear crazy soft

the cherry ones i used are pretty small, only 25mm long. same body diameter as the pink 60mm long version. that most people seem to use https://sg.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/3076224/ https://sg.rs-online.com/web/p/hall-effect-sensors/7659321/ i couldnt find any useful vr sensors. the hall gives a better output anyway. just vr can handle more heat

so much welding hydro bump cans welded on. pretty sure the truck will snap in half before these fall off got most of the diff done. bit more welding and limit strap mounts to go

Diff has gone forward 75mm. wheelbase of the truck is back to about standard now. from memory the front diff has been moved forward 50mm. so yeh, 15mm shorter than factory, basically nothing. shortened lower links Plug welded shock mounts; 3 inch lower than they were before., because the new coilovers have an inch longer body (same travel) plus another 2inch drop to get it to sit lower and more up travel. I still have to get softer springs again though. due to the coilovers having a bigger shafts than the old ones, they displace more oil when compressed which acts on the nitro charge a bit like an air shock. =jacked these bits are what the hydro bumps will act on. had to make some interesting shapes to box it all in around what was already there. without it looking too much like a tacked together abortion

Old vs new New shocks the reso hoses point up and would have fouled the current cross bar. so made a new bar which ties into the actual shock mounting point. then cut the old one off The new shocks also have a narrower mounting width, fixed that at the same time top mounts finished Cut old mounts off diff have shorten the top links so far. bottom links next, then can figure out the bottom shock mounts for correct ride height/ travel Last time on the old bumps..

only need to run baro correction in alpha n (load = tps) . since the ecu only knows how far the throttle/s are open. not the actual air flow or manifold pressure

where in the exhaust is the sensor plumbed in? does the signal jump around if you watch it in real time?

New parts arrived . These are for the rear. currently has foa's, which pretty much the cheapest coilover you can get. they are also valved too stiff, both compression and rebound. so the rear bounces rather than soaking up the bumps. Decided to start with the same on all 4 corners before getting into shock tuning/re-valving, comparing apples to apples etc.. hydro bumps are same 3" travel as run on front. rear currently just has some rubber bumps. Plan is to move the diff forward, by shortening the 4 link. then mount the coilovers off the back of the diff. this will help the situation in a few ways; Mount coilovers for more up travel (around 5inch). fit hydro bumps so they act on top of the diff. a touch more weigh will act on the rear suspension

Dug this out of the shed after 6 months, got a fresh wof and reg, then proceeded to some @Roman Dave science ali express wideband bungs pretty weak science. i only have 1 wideband so these are all different runs . some on different bits of road. bit of variance between cylinders. but nothing to be worried about or really any power to be gained by trimming cylinders. and yeh my tune is a bit screwed up. i think before i put it into hibernation for 6 months, i swapped back to the small extractors and didnt reload the right tune.. i'll fix that.. prob need to click to see full size:

should be wired so there is only 12v+ to the injectors, when the ecu is powered up (key on). but in saying that, still seems weird that its opening the injectors when engine isnt running/ no rpm signal

yeh only the na flywheels fit t50. stick with the clutch you have and find a blacktop flywheel

yeh only 4agze flywheels have the pedestals. all the n/a flywheels are flat. as i said sounds like you have an ae101 4agze flywheel : .

top left - silvertop/late 16v - 215mm clutch top right - blacktop -215mm clutch bottom - not 4age as has only 6 flywheel bolts, but looks similar to early 4azge - 225mm clutch What you have sounds like ae101 4agze -230mm clutch. so yes you have the wrong flywheel. what gearbox?

exhaust gas isnt really going to be flowing through the pipe. so would be more the fact the pipe is in contact with the exhaust. the length of copper and maybe some kind of heat sink (if you wanted to get fancy) before joining onto the flexi hose should be enough. silicone is probably better since it can handle a bit more heat. i take it you are using a pick a part spec map sensor for trial and error anyway?

Spoke too soon, GC's at castrol sorted me out with a few oil packs. Pretty happy to get a bit of a reward for all the hours been put into it \

Pulled the font diff apart to replace the axle seals, as one had been a little leaky for ages. Found the kingpin bearings were pretty tired already, after replacing them when i got the truck. so got an eliminator kit that replaces them with soild steal. just need to fire some grease in them ever now an then Been messing around with the rear suspension a bit more. pretty much come back to what i thought at the start. Rear shocks are too hard, both compression and rebound / need more weight in rear. chucking some weight on the tray makes ride a whole lot better. ideally moving some weight from the front to rear would be best. starting to run out of options, but do have a plan in mind that should get it working better 1psi rear tyre pressure helps too..

try it with the standard setup first. timing requirements probably wont change a whole lot. unless its a real aggressive setup. As above use some kind of knock detection, and some small base timing adjustments maybe enough. With the higher compression it will more likely want to knock. but the best answer isn't retarding the timing. Throw some decent fuel in it. 98 or at least 95. cam may screw up the vac advance a little if its fairly aggressive. which will give you less advance at cruise. but again try it before spending the money on another setup

Your revs are too far from the sweet spot. Interesting re outer injectors. im still on the fence, if I should try the outboard setup on mine