kpr

Stock cams back in for now since it idles on 2 cylinders at 2000rpm. At least until i get motivated to make a new inlet manifold. finally cracked 2 hundy on stock cams with few more tweaks. still only 13psi boost

yeh no idea haha. i changed nothing. it did hook up alot better after a burnout. which seems strange on street tyres. some launch control would help, its pretty hard to hold it at the right rpms

Will be fine.

Last time at drags: 13.796 @ 102.22mph - 2.122 60ft yesterday : #22 (only change is inlet cam swapped to exhaust side and new bigger inlet cam + tuning) done 104mph in a couple of other runs, plus wasn't going full rapist on gear changes like last time. since 3 hours from home without back up vehicle. So yeh more power confirmed. if was set up for drags with some kinda slicks, would probably do a low 13 maybe very high 12. / break, so thats not gonna happen. Pretty happy with 13.5, not bad for a shitty old 4age with no turbo, in a chassis setup for going around corners Also thanks to the gc's that organized and ran os drags

A+ rant. Probably only for factory fitment?

dyno is not far from my house. can use it when ever, so be prepared for dyno testing on everything. maybe even a ride on lawn mower. Pretty happy with 146, how much injector is using comes out to around same numbers. will probably revisit the cam timing an other fine adjustments at some stage. changing to the other cam setup and maybe trumpet length change, another 10kw peak should be do able. but would be all up top

The above seemed pretty optimistic, and it was. found issue with the way it was tied on the dyno. was climbing off the rear roller when it come on cam at around 5000rpm. when torque started to drop at 7500rpm would fall back onto rear roller. then having to spin the rear roller back up to speed makes it look like it falls on its face after 8k.. dyno obviously takes into count the weight of the rear rollers to calculate power, but they aren't physically connected to front rollers or load cell Anyway tied it down properly and it spat out 146kw pretty consistently.

later vented brakes and calipers will fit with stock backing plates. just have to give them a little trim to fit the caliper from memory so guessing will work the other way..

front an rear diff heads are the same in these things. front is just a rear running backwards. so yeh any rear head or center will fit front. cv's are weakest part

Hows that new vtec system though. 60kw to 120kw in 500rpm

Ok

20mm is heaps.

Would be interesting to see if there is much change at higher boost. or with more exhaust manifold pressure.

Yep! found some interesting stuff with the cam timing. Advancing the inlet cam on this engine is pretty close to how my na engine reacts. Below is stock cam timing vs 12deg inlet advance. this is with the 193b inlet and stock exhaust cam. with stock cams all round it acts similar, and strangely enough 12deg advance is what it likes on ether cam. and.. my na engine likes about the same numbers too on different cams again. the internet is kinda right about the overlap and turbo setups. but seems to be more so opening and shutting the exhaust cam at the right time rather than overlap itself. the 193b exhaust cam seems to have too much duration get right without taking a massive hit in midrange/lag. advancing the exhaust cam to reduce overlap actually make it worse everywhere.. even with the stock exhaust cam it has fair amount of overlap. guessing the exhaust cam is shutting around tdc, but have 3-4mm lift on the inlet at tdc

Have done heaps more testing firstly found the airbox itself is a restriction. gains about 5kw and runs a bit more boost with air box removed. its either the way the air enters, or not enough volume around air filter Rest of these runs are with airbox on.. Thought it would be a good idea to swap the head that came off starlet onto this. which has more port work. seems i had done more work on the head that come off the truck than i thought. Red line best run on original head. Blue first run on starlet head. Green cam timing adjusted on starlet head. bit of a fail/waste of my life, but managed to get it close to what it was. can see that this head seems to hang on a bit longer, but is a touch worse everywhere else. would rather keep as much midrange as possible Then went full retard. had some 193b (280 ish 9mm ish) kelford cams hanging around. which are mild ish NA cams. not meant for turbo stuff. Green: best from above on starlet head. Blue: 193b cams with cam timing roughly adjusted to best possible compromise. 220kw on only 12psi is pretty sweet, but too much midrange loss. Red: I almost didn't try this, because i thought it wouldn't work: 193b inlet cam. Stock exhaust cam. matched the stock cams and 20kw more peak! Only issue is, its junk until about 2000rpm and wont idle at all under 1200rpm. not ideal in a 4wd. 99% sure its the inlet manifold, which was spose to be thrown in the bin before i even built this truck, due to vibration and cracking issues TL;DR / too much @Roman Dave Science. First dyno run vs last :

Sorted a few little issues, and played with ignition timing. Looking better now. 200kw on only 13psi

@MACKAZ is pretty much bang on. 185kw. makes the starlet look good peak power wise.

Righto starlet was too easy, How much power does this thing make. Engine basically stock smallport 4azge. with touch more compression. Running 14psi boost. 31" tyres, road tune no tweaks Place bet:

Should make drag day hopefully. @MACKAZ yeh come for a lap of the paddock on the hilux one day

yep we have a winner. 135kw at wheels. although roman dave was pretty much spot on in record time. probably used some kind of ms paint graph to work it out Doing the maths from the 90kw run, times how much extra fuel its using, said about the same numbers. but was expecting it to make a little less Don't have a sheet so will just have believe me for now. will be doing more time on the dyno soon, see if i can better the road tune at all, with cam and igniton timing adjustments. this was just a single run with no changes

metric system dave

Ok had this on dyno today. same setup as above post. Place bets how much power it made.. winner gets slow golf clap For reference a stock blacktop 20bean 4age made 93kw on same dyno.

So i brought a kelford 193hv-c exhaust cam to better match the toda 320deg 10.8mm. 193hv-c is a 304 10.1mm for shimless setup With the toda on the inlet side and new kelford on the exhaust side. results were basically the same as above, almost no change. got the shits with it and put it back in the shed. Fast forward to today, decided to try another setup: Inlet: 193hv-c exhaust cam 304deg 10.1mn Exhaust: 193-c inlet cam 298deg 9.5mm Yep mongrel another setup Against the log in the above post. big gains at 5-6k more than the injector duty shows since the afr isn't correct. engine actually works below 6k with this setup and pulls good from 5k. not bad gains through to 7500. from 8200 onwards the toda cam is the winner. But even though its lost some peak power and noise, overall this setup should be quicker. below is against the 193-c cams in both sides, in their correct locations. (same setup was running at oldshool drags a few years back) About 10% more fuel required from 5800 all the way to 9k. only change is moving the inlet cam to exhaust side, and new 193hv-c on inlet side all 3 Edit: do a skid

consider it stolen