kpr

New engine is alive Back on the 47mm throttles for run in as had good tune for them. trying some stuff hence wiring abortion. have wiring for multiple setups on same loom, so can swap between easy must of done something right, 150kw at wheels on the small extractors, most its ever made on same setup is 145kw, usually around 143kw. Note to self put mic further away; RIP mic and all speakers.

ain't no time for that, just a squirt of rtv, red of course

Yeah parts are pretty easy to get. can get most stuff from toyota. otherwise aftermarket has it covered.

V3.0 Bottom end All the ARP's Threw the bottom end in the car, before attempting to put head on, since don't have an engine stand. One small issue. 16v sumps are a little bigger than the 20v one that was in there. Hits the bash plate/ brace. will probably modify the engine mounts engine to lift the engine 5mm or so. cbf'd taking sump back off.

@kyteler can tell by picture of inlet ports

fine idea @Stu, fine idea

small update on this, new engine is still a work in progress. New block has been bored out for the toda pistons, new rings acquired ( was thinking about getting something higher compression but spent too much already) Crank; the crank out of the spare 4agze block was bent?! Was over old junk by this point and brought a new genuine crank thanks @CorollaGT Head had 2 bent exhaust valves, which had no signs of contact on the pistons when pulled the engine apart, unlike the inlet valves. guessing i may have got slightly aggressive on the exhaust cam timing at some stage. Otherwise its fine. Done a little work in the chambers while head is off. Hand finished the transition into exhaust seats. previously was a small lip, knocked that off into small radius. plus knocked off a few other little bits . Assembled with kelford beehive springs and ti retainers, top side is even lighter now due to the smaller diameter of the spring and retainer. engine guy has the last exhaust valve, as needs a little bit of a zing to get clearances correct. Going to ditch the oil cooler for now. First reason being, it probably has bits of rod bearing stuck in it. also suspect it even needs it, plus is more shit to go wrong and it weighs something. so yeh mostly the last too reasons.. have welded a bung in the sump to monitor oil temps. before the sensor was in the sandwich plate for the cooler. tl;dr : found more broken stuff. spent more money. should be running again sometime

you could use it if you weren't at the other end of the country. rings should be fine, usually ring lands on pistons are first thing to go on a cast piston. stronger parts will still fail if the tune is off. detonation is like a first year apprentice jacked up on a 500ml monster energy, wielding a large hammer in one hand and a gas axe in the other. shits gonna get fucked up either way. best advice i can give re tuning, is invest in some kinda of audible knock detection if you don't have it already. chuck it on something you don't like, advance the timing till it pings its nuts off, so you can familiarize with what knock sounds like. most boosted engines will want to knock at low rpm under boost, and again at max torque. avoid it at all costs most people get caught up on afr, while it does need to be right. its not going to nuke your engine as fast as too much ignition advance. good fuel, cold iat's and non restrictive exhaust all help the cause also.

Also placing money on a fresh stock engine will be fine. main thing is to make sure the tune is on point.

Firstly thanks for removing the rogue @dave from my thread. ban that guy Couldn't be bothered getting off the couch the other day so made a video. Kinda looks like a 12 year olds school project and if you've been following this thread, would have seen most of it before. should be slightly amusing none the less

just hit it at speed. its super horrible at low revs at the moment, due to the big plenum and cam timing im running. stalls out real easy. but have a fix planned when makes it to the top of the list... its not as bad as it sounds, since what little low rev torque it has is multiplied so many times. but yep something diesel would destroy it with same gearing. Not really that interested in rock crawling. so happy with the compromise As far as usable powerband goes its actually better than most engines. since goes to 9 can get wheel speed up without changing gears.

its got 4.7 crawler gears in the transfer case, so does the slow stuff all good. most of the stuff in that vid i was in 1st high range. 5th in low range is about same as 1st high range. something between 1st and 2nd high would be good when its in the middle ground it works sweet. shocks valved pretty hard with light spring rates. so over the little stuff like washboards on a gravel road its pretty bumpy. the harder you drive it the smoother it gets, until run out of suspension travel. Its really limited by bad front /rear weight balance, nose dives and makes tuning the rear suspension a pain. Not bottoming out but close to no travel left on those jumps. landing still feels ok in cab. much more would be a bad day.

It does pretty well against safaris and the likes in the mud/dirt. but not really night and day difference like in the sand. The lower tyre pressure, power and less weight combo makes it work on the sand. sits on the top and arab spec it on the limiter. plus can just send it over any bumps with the coilovers and hydro bumps

So yeah, took this to the beach. About to go out to the shed and watch it dissolve into a pile of rust. but for now a video: Gearing isn't the best for sand. but other than that and melting the clutch once, it went real well

Do a wheelie bro

6.25

This thing is broken also. have started to fix it. This is front suspension lower link, chassis end mount. its meant to be parallel to the chassis not bent down at the back. the force from the front link is mostly pulling straight forward. the mount has plently of strength to handle that, but it also pulls down slightly, and yeh bendy bendy this is the brace that runs up the inside of the chassis. weld held up fine but has tore a hole in the chassis, which is maybe 2-3mm thick. other side is fine as the braces run to the top of the chassis, this side was cut down as handbrake stuff was in the way. Managed to bend it back to where it needed to be, by putting the weight of the truck on the mount and using massive bit of pipe too leaver it back into place. Then plated the chassis and boxed in the mount, plus added another brace along the bottom side on both sides of the truck. wasn't much fun tig welding left handed and almost blind under there. but is stuck good. yep i changed that grease nipple so it doesn't get torn off One of the front lower links has been bent for awhile. plus had to replace the joints, with the proper johnny joints i brought ages ago ^ ^. Decided to remake all 3 links. New links are a size smaller pipe but are made from 4130. old ones are some cheese water pipe. so yeh new ones should be easily as strong and are lighter. drilled some speed holes in the retardedly overkill hand brake linkage, to make myself feel better about welding more stuff to the chassis. front uni of front driveshaft was smoked also. just looked old and corroded, rather than not being strong enough, so wacked in a new gen toyota joint. White is the old top link ^

the nissan plug in links ive done, s15 etc. have had plenty of spare io's on them on the factory loom. plus you can buy and expansion loom/plug for them was talking link specific in my previous post btw

no reason why you couldn't. can all be reconfigured in software

I was more saying it works, rather than use 4 tooth. I'm still going with the vr sensor itself (or megasquirt depending how you want to look at it) is the issue. If they are still like they used to be, the ms has issues with at least the toyota / denso vr sensors. All the ones that worked properly had a daughter board, or some kind of add on vr conditioner. even ms3 didn't work properly with the onboard setup.

1 tooth per combustion event is all you need for dizzy. ecu sees trigger pulse and fires coil. dizzy sorts the rest. will need to setup the teeth so you have one of them pointing at sensor when engine is at tdc do you have any external vr conditioners. or vr straight into ms?

can you fit a hall sensor in there to read the orginal 20 tooth wheel? rather than vr.

Engine is going to be rebuilt with a few new bits Previous bottom end was a silvertop bottom end. Balanced with arp rod bolts and toda 82mm pistons. rest stock. This time: Same toda pistons : awaiting new rings Brian Crower rods: just some off the self rods. mostly because they are around 100gm lighter per rod than what was in there ARP mains Toda Oil pump gears The broken stuff; Crank seen better days. Block had some unrelated pitting in the bores, looks like it had water or something sitting around rings when it wasn't in use for some time. mostly at the bottom of the stroke, so probably wasn't loosing any power from it. Head: valves look ok, awaiting 2nd opinion from engine guy So yeh no more 20v parts, had a spare 16v ze block and crank, will be base for new bottom end. Suspect that the valves have been starting to float. so will be putting these fancy beehive springs in. at the moment it has supertech singles. which are borderline for what im doing No#3 toast

Had same issue using stock toyota triggers with ms back in the day. my half assed solution was to run super tight clearance between trigger wheel and vr sensor. to get voltage up when cranking

guessing it depends what you are shooting for? economy or power or just science? will assume science. but if economy. would it not be better to go the other way to a point, less advance and higher throttle opening to get the same airflow. which would reduce pumping loss?