Yowzer

yes, reliable. Yes, they can fail completely. I guess the point I was really trying to make was that they are in a state of decline from the moment of manufacture (the heated wire), obviously it's a time not use thing. So, eventually they might not fail completely but they can be in such a poor state that they are worse than not having one (the value it's sending is so wrong, so out of relationship with the air flow, the device is useless). Sorry I was referring to the EGT sensor in that post, not the MAF. Solution for the MAF issue is replace with a MAP sensor and Link ECU / 2ZZ

Wow you guys have a mean turnout! The hammeat consisted of Brad and Courtney and I.

Is this this awesome biodegradable insulation some auto manufactures thought was a good idea?

Those sensors are generally pretty reliable though aren't they? Dunno if they use K type like all the aftermarket deals, but there's not really anything that can go wrong with them without failing completely. In saying that though, if the wiring to them is damaged or deteriorated it could effect the resistance and give a false temperature value.

I think some weird form of air flow sensor is effectively a heated temp sensor, and calculates the air flow based on the temperature drop of the sensor as the air flows over it? Or something like that? That sounds like the MAF thing you are describing, which would explain why the car runs like crap when it's covered in gunk. [edit] already answered.

The weather actually looks like it's gonna be not too bad. I could quite happily have a beer in the afternoon sun. I'll be there around 6:30-7ish

So how many people are gonna be at this?

Nothing an angle grinder can't solve.

Yah decreasing poost will do nothing to the engines efficiency. All you are doing is limiting its power. However if you were to also up the compression and tweak the fuelling you could potentially increase its efficiency and make it more economical. But that's not really feasible.

Lump of cast iron to the sack?

Apparently the factory flywheel is really shit?

As KK said, a 270 or so should do ya fine

On like donkey kong

I think even with electronic control there is a minimum that you can actually turn the boost down before you are relying only on the wastegate spring tension. Usually this is around the 5-7PSI mark, and then increasing the boost from there involves the solenoid bypassing / bleeding off air to the wastegate actuator. So unplug the solenoid and see what it boosts at? I might be wrong though. Have had jack all dealings with modern turbo engines.

Yeah true. Supporting the shaft from both sides should improve it a fair bit though.

Yah weather is gonna get its gay on hard. Was looking forward to a garden meet again. Maybe December will work out better.

What if instead of chains linking them together, they were all gears? Or perhaps support the shaft on the other side of the sprocket too so the only force on the shaft is torsional. Or both?

Fill whole room with engine start. Should work a charm.

I wanna see 10 x tuned exhausts on the finished product

Wow you can build these things to make 20 hp?? That would be all sorts of suicide I hope you plan on running it on meth

I got one of them. Tis a very sweet tent

Side pipe exiting in front of left front wheel you say?

Yah, my brother still has his. It's pretty rooted. I need to bend the accelerator pedal back into shape though. It snapped off a while ago but did not get welded back together in the optimal position, so it hits the floor before max throttle is achieved. Black smoke production is greatly reduced as a result. Is the turbo gear interchangeable between the 2? 1.9TD would be pretty sweet

Interesting read. Will apply to my wagon. However I don't have a boost compensator. Is the turbo BX still a 1.9?

So despite it being over a year now since I've posted an update on this car, I have actually been making a bit of progress on it. Mostly just small unexciting things. In any case the car itself is still largely untouched, but everything that will soon be bolted into it is coming along nicely. I seem to have lost a few of the photos though. So anyway, just to clarify my plans, I have a 3L 6M-GE (more or less, it's actually a 5MGE head on a 7M block) all freshly rebuilt, a Lysholm supercharger off a Mazda something to slap on the side, and a somewhat customised Megasquirt II to run it all. So the car still looks like this The MS started out like this Then ended up with some jumper wires. A lot of jumper wires. Not pictured is the external add on board thingie I made to run semi sequential injection and wasted spark ignition. And stuff. Injectors look like this Top are factory 5MGE units, rated at 182CC, bottom units are from an RX7 and rated at 550CC. The picture is quite boring. Annoyingly, the 5/7/6MGE still had the 7M lower cambelt cover on it, which meant shit did not line up. But that was a simple swap. Until I decided that everything needed to be painted. I haven't got pictures of things all shiny and painted yet, so here's the engine with pieces missing from it. And here's a clean piece of intake manifold. Yuh Anyway, I've kinda lost track of where I was going with this post due to watching dinner and eating TV, but whatever. Next update will hopefully include a fully assembled engine ready to be slotted into the vehicle. I would really like to drive it sometime next year. It's already been over a year since I last drove it... Depressing. Oh well. 'Till next time