Roman

I remember someone suggesting putting some nuts and bolts in the tank then shaking it around to get all the rust to come loose before resealing etc.

In my car I'm running 5kg and 3.5kg and find this is on the verge of what's good for driving on the street (Tyres start skipping off the road over undulations...) Possibly relates to my shocks as well though. 6&4 would be good I reckon.

Does the tacho work at all currently? If you've changed from a distibutor based output to coilpacks (?) you might need to add some resistors to the tacho circuit to get it to read from 5V square wave from ECU (or whatever) Cant remember exact details 10/10 useful post Will ask my old man about it

If you've got a spare PWM output from your ECU then run it from that. Then you can scale it to whatever you want.

Yeah makes it less grippy, it really helped with the low speed tight turns where the car would judder.

2 way is pretty much good for drift only IMO. A guy in superlap with GTR running gear in S13 has just swapped his Tomei 2 way (which isnt adjustable) for a standard LSD to try get some better cornering out of the car. Before I pulled it apart I'd run a variety of different oils, Castrol oil was worst for grabbyness, tried with Cusco friction oil modifier which helped a little. Changed to a redline oil which was a little better, then friction modifier oil added. Now (after diff mods) I'm back to original castrol oil with no additives and its perfect.

Cusco LSDs are awesomely adjustable, if you get sick of the 2 way they're really easy to pull apart and adjust the preload/clutch order / etc. Some of them have the option of setting to 1 way or 1.5 way. I did all of the above and it made night and day difference to how my car handled. Understeered like crazy with tight 2 way. Cool car!

Easy to do on rotary table on milling machine Unfortunately I have zero competency in using said machine.

Yep piece of cake, anything further from there is a giant pain in the balls though haha.

If my coolant is 94-95 deg and my oil is 110ish then even if the airflow was as hot as coolant it's still not going to heat the oil. I think it's each sensor having a different heatsoak/thermal latency in the housing they are in. (By which I mean... definitely aliens) One thing I've noticed with the oil cooler fitted though is consistently lower coolant temps, so I'll look through some old logs and see if engine was running any hotter.

Haha. Yeah fan blows in correct direction, when car is idling you can see it pulling stacks of heat out of the cooler and there's a 10 deg drop across the sensors. Instead of cooling system reacing saturation point and fan coming on, car stays at 87deg and fan never comes on. So it's definitely doing something, but I dont have any oil temp data from beforehand to compare to. The sensors are both brand new and using same cal table in the ECU, when car is first warming up they both read the same until there starts being a temp difference across the core. In order to fit my sensors (they are quite deep and bottom out in the AN fittings) I've had to use a 1/8th > 1/4 NPT fitting then a 1/4 > 1/8 NPT back again. So the tip of sensor is sitting in oil but they're not completely immersed so it's possible they're prone to heat soak from external sources.

Yeah especially if you can run wideband etc over can bus

On the whole time

Haha yeah sweet power now Glenn! Good rev range for powerband too. What else changed about the motor to get you over that 200kw mark? More compression?

Okay so who wants to try explain this one for me? Orange line is engine temp. Red line is oil temp before the oil cooler. Blue line is oil temp after the cooler. At a certain point of track day run, my oil cooler appears to be heating the oil hahaha. I am wondering if exhaust heat is influencing the reading of the "After cooler" sensor, as it's line of sight to exhaust manifold. The "before" sensor isnt line of sight to exhaust as it's on far side of oil cooler adaptor.

If you think there's even the slightest possibility of changing spring rates later on. I'd go adjustable seat and 62 or 65mm ID springs. As they're common sizes so springs are cheap, got a pair of mine brand new for a box of beer. Vs paying $200 per set for oddball sizes. One thing that determines spring rate is the total length of wire in the spring. So a common way to manufacture the different spring rates for coilovers is to use same wire thickness but then shorter overall length/height for higher spring rate. If you have an adjustable height spring seat and set it up for springs that are on the soft side, you'll be able to switch to stiffer springs without dramas if you need to so long as the spring seat can wind up to suit. but good to have some available spring seat movement both up and down. I find that my car is on the border of too stiff for road with 5kgmm and 3.5kgmm springs, when doing some backroad doorts the front wheels start to skip off the road on undulations.

Haha for sure. Some of the guys in street class have openly said that their cars are too delicate/stiffly sprung/etc to drive them long distance on the road at all. Trailered to and from events, wof and reg "street class" cars that only ever drive on track haha.

My idea for a combined trackday/camping trip... Hmmmm maybe not the best. It was annoying having tools and tyres etc in the car while trying to go camping, then vice versa for trackday, and just generally speaking a car stuffed completely full of stuff! Had an awesome time at the Riverglen camp ground where Nats was in the Cormandel for a few days though. Superlap round 2 at Taupo was a mission! Clutch Master cyl packed up on the way down. Replacement one didnt fit so rebuilt old one with guts of new one. Then staged injection not working properly so retuned for primaries only. Then i had a session where everything went well! And managed a 1.51.6 which I was really happy with, huge improvement over last time and everything felt great. Rear tyres were getting slippery at end of session at 32psi hot so dropped them to 30 hot. Next session after that, e-throttle fault! Which cleared after turning car off and on again, but I'll need to look through logs to see why this might have happened. But decided to just head into the pits and call it a day. On the whole pretty happy with the weekend, and happy that I made it home alright. But I'll also be pretty happy to just park it in the garage for a while and do some other stuff for a while! It was a weekend of frustrating mechanical issues with a small spritz of success in the middle haha.

Hahaha awesome. Down at Taupo at the moment. I ran a 1:52.6 today which is a fair bit quicker than previous best of 1.53.8. Only had 4 laps too, other 4 sessions are tomorrow and GPS is showing a few corners where there's a big stack of time to cut. Also found that incorrect knock sensor setting was pulling 5 deg timing out of the entire powerband haha... So should feel a bit more lively tomorrow! Cant wait! R888s are awesome I was able to take turn 4 without any braking.

I post things that are interesting to me. Feel free to add me to your ignore list.

I was planning to do the next round of superlap with just a temperature probe fitted to the existing setup to get a baseline of what the oil temps get to. Buuuutttt smashing the windscreen brough plans forward a bit! As I had to pull most of the dash out anyway so it makes sense to get wiring changes etc done sooner than later. I have finished building a shroud for the oil cooler fan and the brackets to hold it in place. Unfortunately the cooler is too damn big to fit anywhere except for ahead of the radiator panel, but I've placed it behind the bumper / numberplate and quite far forward so it shouldnt get too much airflow through the core without the fan going. Also I chose black AN fittings where possible and put some fibreglass heat sleeving stuff over them. Mainly because it looks a bit nicer I reckon. Nearly finished the physical install of it, then just the wiring to sort out. Dad has provided me with a PWM fan controller, it's really easy to setup so that should be cool to have a play with! Markku has loaned me another speedo drive to test with, hopefully this makes everything work nice again and cruise control will be back up in running in time for the next Superlap round at Taupo.

Best thing you can do, if there is an EFI version of your car, have a scout around and find a tank from one of those and swap them over. I'm sure there's an EFI 3T or whatever from that year? Saves 10 million headaches and you know the baffles etc are going to be good. In other news I suspect it might have been Seedy Al who posted about EFI converting a tank.

Figured out how to record video with thermal imaging camera, need to stream it via USB to Laptop. It's friggen sweet!

What's the scoop thingy for? EDIT: Nevermind just read that link

He'd have to actually work on some of his projects to improve the ratio