Roman

Bumped this thread for two reasons: Quite frankly I'm just amazed that no one stopped to pull him up on this one. Also, I see the Version 3 MS + daughter board thingy can run all sorts of fancy stuff... knock control, VVTI, coilpacks, full sequential injectors, outboard injectors, etc. What's the general consensus these days? Any better? Or still a bit of a bodge. Apart from the greivously painful setup and troubleshooting, is there anyone with something good to say about these things? My Dutch blood starts to stir when I look at the price of one hahaha. I've downloaded the tuning software and I'm confident I could setup and tune one myself. It's just the assembly/wiring/oscilliscope work that gives me the shits. Thankfully though my old man has a knack for these sorts of things and he's keen to put together an MS setup. I'm happy enough keeping the standard ECU, but for whatever reason a few load/rpm areas it doesnt run as well as it could, idle isnt great, and I wouldnt mind an extra 500-1000rpm. Too cheap for a Link considering an aftermarket ECU gains me next to nothing power wise, and fixes a few niggles rather than anything major. Cant help but think it's probably more trouble than it's worth though.

I say turbo it if you want to make your car more fun to drive. I remember Waz had a 1GGTE setup in a GX51 that he had no ends of trouble with... Back when it was a lot easier to get motors when things went aplodey. Made some alright power but lightswitch power delivery apparently. Gave up in the end because it was too unreliable. For all of the fluffing around you may as well just plonk a 1JZGTE in there though, with the early twin turbo engine it's not any harder to wire up etc and you get better power, better reliability, better economy. It would end up costing you $4-5k+ to get a legal 1GGTE or 1JZGTE in there though. inb4 rotary or LS1 suggestion

Looks like it might have shut up shop? Wasnt open the other night I was in the area.

Car looks good at current height. Will be fun with a 4age in there!

How about instead of a smug reply you just behave better next time. Theres a time and a place, monthly meets are neither. Surely its not hard to understand how driving like a dick could lose us the carpark access. People dont need to know its OS to know that they dont want cars there anymore if people are acting up. Its really boring having to explain this,thankfully the topic requires no further discussion as everyones going to behave appropriately next time.

...That's why it was a good turnout. (kidding xoxoxo)

Quite an amazing segue into an EFI ramble. In other news, I will likely be there this time.

Out of all of the possible engines, this is one I never would have thought of... But it's actually a pretty damn good plan! None of the complexity etc of a beams motor to cause you headaches and cost $$$$, super easy smash it in there type engine swap. Especially since it's a factory EFI model car already, makes things so much easier. It will keep similar character to the original car/motor, while way better reliability and fuel economy. Cant go wrong.

Then once you'd calmed down Chris and found the keys, you'd be on your way.

oh cool! Something handy as well is to download 'circuit tools' which is another free download, and then export from racechrono as the. vbs format (i think) to load in the program. You can compare up to six laps at once in that program, instead of just two in RC.

I just went to my first trackday where I had my GPS setup working. This uses a netbook PC, a 20hz USB GPS reciever, and a program called Racechrono that you can download for free on PC/tablet/etc: http://racechrono.com/ So basically, when I was out on the track I could use this setup to show me split times and laptimes in real time. If I just completed a segment of the track quicker than last time, the laptop screen would flash green. If I just went slower, it would flash red. So super useful to help figure out what's actually faster or slower at particular parts of the track. In the program you can set your own 'traps' to mark out your split times to suit what you're trying to measure or acheive. Which is awesome. This worked well through the day, however there were some parts of the track where I'm still not sure which type of line is fastest. Since I had all of the laptimes logged, once I found some time I had a sift through the GPS data and find out what actually works best. On the Taupo full track I had my suspicions that a wider line through the start of the sweeper was better, and seemed to give a better line through the second half and onto the straight. But looking through a comparison of two lines, you can see this is not the case at all, red car vs blue car: Taking a tighter line meant I gained a bunch of meters which equated to about half a second difference by the time I reached the end of the straight. It's pretty cool to have information like this on hand! Based on some information I've gained from the GPS data, I've written myself a few notes about how to take a few of the corners differently for next time, and try knock some time off. If anyone wanted a quick and easy way to setup racechrono if going to a trackday, you can download it onto a tablet or android phone and just use the internal phone GPS to record the laptimes. It wont be as accurate this way, as generally internal GPS recievers in phones and tablets which are designed for navigation only run at 1hz. So if you're going 150kph, you're travelling about 40 meters in between each point that the GPS receiver reads. So having a higher sampling rate for the GPS is ideal, as well as a strong reciever that can pick up a lot of satellites to average the signal from. Most 'out of the box' GPS datalogging units designed for racing etc work at 10hz or there abouts. However, any information is good information. A 1hz GPS setup is still leagues ahead of what anyone had even 20 years ago, and you can use it for free with stuff you already own. Amazing!

Hey people, Thought I'd start a fairly broad topic tech thread, about various types of datalogging. So including things like: GPS lap timing Aftermarket ECU datalogging OBD port datalogging Using video as a follow up tool! And so on. Will post some jibba jabba in the following posts, feel free to contribute if you've got anything interesting relating to engine or car datalogging.

Holy crap 1.6g!

Hey Glenn, What are you planning on doing with the panhard rod on this one? I remember you saying that on your previous car you have/had an adjustable panhard rod so it raises or lowers the roll centre. Do you make it with different height holes at the 'body' end of the rod? Would be cool to see some photos when you get to this part.

Hmmmm, dont know too much about the dual sprints, I dont have a racing license or whatever. Or any real intentions of doing any real racing lol. Next trackday on the menu will be the Toyota 86 festival or whatever, at Hampton Downs in May. Cant wait for a burn around that track! Havent been yet.

Oh also, trackday made my diff whine mostly go away! Great success //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/21625-romans-cod-piece/page-6

Sooooo I went down to Taupo on Friday, and me and the old man put some beatdowns on the Carina. It was pretty spectacularly rainy at some point, on the first and second stint 4-5 cars hit the wall! Madness. My Dad only got in one run, because it was so rainy he didnt really want to take it out again after that. It was never quite dry on the day, my fastest laptime on this track is a 1:57 which I did in an SW20 MR2 with a beams motor many years ago. This time around I managed a 2.03 with some pretty sloppy lines, a damp track and old tires. So a bit more practice and some better tires I reckon I'll be in the high/mid 1:50s no sweat Just prior to trackday I made a bracket that holds my laptop and GPS unit (tells me laptimes in realtime, soooooo useful) a fire extinguisher and camera tripod. So the idea is that it all bolts to the normal 4 seat mounts, so when I want to switch back to 'normal' I just unbolt the whole thing and put the passenger seat back in. Easy! Next on the to-do list is to get my failspec exhaust replaced, with something that flows and sounds better. Get some better tires, and increase the front camber a tad. As it's currently deeeestroying the outer edges of my tires, as I needed to have 0 degrees camber to pass cert... Silly rule that one. Millions of fun was had though! Track day is best day.

Is this in a carpark with lots of high speed bumps? Will come along if there are no big speed bumps and I havent blown up my car at trackday on Friday haha.

battery is in the boot but runs a dedicated sense wire all the wsy to the back. ive got another battery exactly the same in the sw20 so will swap them over and see what happens. otherwise will run a seperate voltage sense wire and see if it helps. thinking probably the battery now though as its been run completely flat a few times and left for a few days/weeks/forever/coupelife before realising.

Sooooo I bought a new voltage regulator, and swapped it over and reinstalled and I'm still gettting 14.7 volts at the alternator during idle. Bugger. What else could cause this? There are two wires on the alternator plug that return a voltage, with the engine off one was 12.8 volts and the other 12.5. (Or something like that, but one was .3 volts less than the other anyway) If the lower reading one was the voltage sense wire, could explain the overcharging? Possible broken/damaged wire still perhaps. Or is there anything else in the alternator being worn out etc that could cause that problem? I guess I'll need to try run an external voltage sense wire and see if anything changes.

Looks good, is there ever much rust to contend with on cars in 'Straya? I'm pretty sure all of the A40 series of cars have dissolved by now in New Zealand haha. Hmmm 2.4 litre beams sounds interesting, starting out with a 5S block?

Engine is as far back as you would want it to go. Current plan is: 1. Order a new voltage regulator, reassemble and refit alternator. 2. See if that made any difference to idle etc 3. Install hks wizard box airflow meter / idle adjuster. 4. Fiddle with it till car idles better 5. Adjust maf signal at rpm thats pinking to reduce ignition timing 6. Hopefully problems sorted / probably not.

thanks guys. Im going to try sort the alternator first as the overcharging could be causing half the problem. looks like the voltage regulator might be stuffed Glenn haha, not sure how much the big bus weighs but somewhere just under or over a tonne id imagine.

Argh, some time out with the OBD unit unveiled a few unexpected clues/issues. Set up some displays for rpm, ignition advance, MAF reading, intake temp, throttle position. For shits and giggles I thought I'd put a OBD unit voltage meter in there as well... 15.3 volts. shit. Get back home and see that my voltage sense wire on the battery terminal had kinda broken. Stripped it off and connected it back on to test, still reporting 15+ volts. It showed a peak of 17 volts when driving around, this could be what blew up my speedo sender unit! Lucky no other damage? A multimeter across the battery terminals and/or from the alternator output to an earth point on the chassis gives about 14.7 volts at idle which is still too high right? I havent driven it again since reconnecting the voltage sense wire properly. I hope the voltage regulator in the alternator hasnt crapped itself. Although given the frayed end on the wire it's probably just an issue with that somewhere. So might have to trace the wire back and check for breaks or whatever. I'll get some hired help on this one (Dad) as wiring does my head in! I guess it's a plausible theory that the excessive load from the alternator wringing its guts out was causing the idle to drop off / dunno yet. Although at low load cruising I was still seeing 45 degrees ignition advance which seems way too much. The echo remains in the 20ish degree advance area under similar load/rpm conditions. So the HKS wizard box might still earn it's keep once I've figured this one out.