Roman

I had one for a little while, impulse purchase from TM a few years back haha. It was the twin round front version though. Hey Glenn, how much oil needs to go in an F series live axle again? Need to fill mine back up once I've put it together again, but I forget.

Looking swish! Needs the oil cooler out front filling the gap between the two splitters like the old cars though I reckon, to finish off the look. (And that's likely half their purpose, to hoof air through that big front cooler that fills the gap between the two halves) Would love to see this thing going full noise some time!

So as per above, I'd been looking at changing the diff ratio and changing diff type. After doing the maths on the diff ratio, in order to keep the tire sizes I want (195/50/15 and 205/50/15) and get 3000rpm at 100kph I would need to drop right down to a 3.7 ratio from 4.3. Changing to 4.1 would make bugger all difference for the effort, so 4.3 it is! Regarding the diff, after doing some homework I found that the Cusco units are VERY adjustable, and from factory they are on the highest settings for everything. At the moment it has too much preload (how much the clutches are pushed together / locking the diff when nothing is happening) Too much locking under accelleration (Annoying trying to put power down on corner exit, acts like a locked diff) Too much lock under braking/decel (Makes the car understeer on corner entry, and partly responsible for doing 720 spins into turn 1 at Taupo a few trackdays back!) Some people would suggest just adding more front camber to the car, but that just means each end of the car is fighting each other and so you're scrubbing away grip for nothing. I'll be adding a small amount of camber over it's Necessary-to-pass-cert 0 degrees setting to negative 1-1.5ish. After pulling the diff back out it looks to be the Type RS model, which is the less aggressive compared to the MZ version and thankfully it's a lot easier to adjust the preload. The preload is set by a bunch of springs holding two halves of the unit apart internally, that you can see here: The MZ type has cone washers instead, which are even more aggressive and not very adjustable from what I understand. phew! There are slots for having up to 10 springs in, mine had 6. So took two out, respaced them evenly and used the reccomended minimum of four. There are also notches in the sides, which determine whether the diff is set to one way or two way: I've changed this from two way back to one way. So when I'm not on the throttle, the car should drive like it doesnt have an LSD at all, apart from the preload force which should hopefully be a lot lower now. aannnnndd the final thing that I can adjust, is the order of the clutch plates. Basically half of the clutch plates hold on to the shaft which the axles slot into, and the other half grab on to the outside of the housing. So they either have 'tabs' on the outside or inside circumference of the plates. They are normally one then the other, however if you stack two of the same type of plates back to back, in the order prescribed in the manual you can reduce the effective friction down to 60% of what it was to start with. As explained by this excellent diagram: With everything restacked, it just needs the housing plonked back on, and the two halves are only held together with 4 phillips head countersunk screws. The reason being that they are just there to hold the halves together until the crownwheel is on, they dont need to be done up super tight... Then add the crown wheel and torque it all back up to factory settings, and back in the housing. From here it's no different to the process for installing any other type of diff. It looked pretty intimidating seeing the exploded diagram, but they've done well to have the minimal amount of parts and super easy to adjust or service. Here's a Gif of how it stacks together: This is all yet another tick in the box towrads the idea of going to an easier to work on car than previous... I shudder at the thought of having to make the same changes to a diff buried inside a transaxle! There are a few other things to do while the the diff is out. I found that the brake discs were pinching on the outside circumference of the axles - so they werent sitting completely flush against the axle face. This pretty much busted the near new wheel bearings on the axles, so will need to replace those again. Bummer! Easy and not too expensive problem to solve though, I'm relieved it wasnt a bent axle instead causing the problem. When towing the car on the trailer I've had to be careful about throwing strops over the diff as well, as the brake hard lines are in the way. So I'll be redoing these in a more strop friendly location, then painting the diff housing finally, then mash it all back together. This should take a competent and motivated person maybe 3-5 nights after work and a weekend to complete. So, ETA is December Thankfully most of this work I can do on the bench in the garage instead of scrounging around under the car, which isnt particularly appealing at this time of year. Fred: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?showtopic=21625#p614135

Ahhh thanks! I also found some pictures of a T series diff set to one way which had the flat face pointing left. Ive set it to the softest possible setting now, and 1 way. so I figure I'll want to pull it back out to either rearrange the plates, or increase preload or whatever depending on how it goes. So not too much of a drama to switch it back to 2 way.

Hey, After finding out that its actually designed to be adjustable, i pulled out my excessively grabby cusco 2 way lsd. Rearranged the clutch plates to the 60% setting and removed 1 third of the springs which set the preload. The part thats caught me out though! The lsd can be two way or one way, dependin on which cam profile you put the end of the cross gear thing in. I want to set it to one way, but ive realised it can be set the wrong way around... so only giving lsd action under decel haha. Does anyone know if the flat face of the cam profile needs to be pointing towards, or away, from the direction of rotation for accelleration? Cant post a pic to explain at the moment, pc is fubar.

In other news, i approve of this soarer goodness. Z20s are freaken sweet

Does it blow teu at once?Puhuhuhu

I'm liking this dry sump business.

Havent done anything particularly noteworthy with this... apart from drive it! Have done almost 5,000kms since cert with minimal issues. I've always been wondering how it would stack up weight wise though. The benchmark I wanted to match or better was my previous car, an SW20 with beams motor. Which was 1030kg with about 1/3rd tank of gas. Put the carina on the weighbridge today, and it was 1040kg with 1/2 a tank. I was a little bit surprised that even though it's got so much more weight in the drivetrain (Engine>gearbox>driveshaft>diff) compared to a transverse setup it's comparable weight overall. It's got MA61 seats at the moment which are quite heavy, and full glass... the glass in the rear hatch is quite heavy, it's why the factory weight of the coupe is actually heavier than the sedan. The factory 4age version Carina was 1100kg+ I think, if it was fully specd with power steering etc. IRS adds weight too. Might rig up one of my spare rear hatches with Lexan for trackday stuff, and without passenger seat it would be under a tonne fo' sho' Until I hop in it, at least haha. -The to-do list over the next while is: -New tires, back to 205s instead of 195. maybe semis cant decide. -Replaced the only-good-for-skids Cusco 2 way LSD with a Torsen and maybe 4.1 ratio instead of 4.3 (Sucks doing 3600rpm at 100kph...) -Redo the exhaust, because it's pretty shitty and sounds less than great. -Possibly Version 3 megasquirt, and if so possibly back to ITBs or maybe setup a factory manifold with staged injection. Picture unrelated:

Yeah good advice... The crank angle sensor stuff is easy, as it's just a missing tooth wheel. But the cam angle sensor is a bit different, it has two teeth say 45 degrees apart from each other that sweep past the sensor per 360 degrees. Not sure if it's gonna shit itself when it 'sees' two of them at odd intervals or not. I'm not sure why it's got two anyway, I doubt it could measure anything useful in the time interval between one going past and the other. EDIT: Found this, looks simple enough actually. Just need to probably use a dial gauge on the cam to find out the position of the first and second teeth relative to (presumably?) max or min lift on cam for cyl #1. http://www.msextra.com/doc/ms3/vvt.html So two teeth isnt a problem, nothing complicated about VVTI that couldnt work as above. Just firing a solenoid at the end of the day! Wonder if the coilpacks will work though, ever used the Toyota ones with MS, KPR?

Bumped this thread for two reasons: Quite frankly I'm just amazed that no one stopped to pull him up on this one. Also, I see the Version 3 MS + daughter board thingy can run all sorts of fancy stuff... knock control, VVTI, coilpacks, full sequential injectors, outboard injectors, etc. What's the general consensus these days? Any better? Or still a bit of a bodge. Apart from the greivously painful setup and troubleshooting, is there anyone with something good to say about these things? My Dutch blood starts to stir when I look at the price of one hahaha. I've downloaded the tuning software and I'm confident I could setup and tune one myself. It's just the assembly/wiring/oscilliscope work that gives me the shits. Thankfully though my old man has a knack for these sorts of things and he's keen to put together an MS setup. I'm happy enough keeping the standard ECU, but for whatever reason a few load/rpm areas it doesnt run as well as it could, idle isnt great, and I wouldnt mind an extra 500-1000rpm. Too cheap for a Link considering an aftermarket ECU gains me next to nothing power wise, and fixes a few niggles rather than anything major. Cant help but think it's probably more trouble than it's worth though.

I say turbo it if you want to make your car more fun to drive. I remember Waz had a 1GGTE setup in a GX51 that he had no ends of trouble with... Back when it was a lot easier to get motors when things went aplodey. Made some alright power but lightswitch power delivery apparently. Gave up in the end because it was too unreliable. For all of the fluffing around you may as well just plonk a 1JZGTE in there though, with the early twin turbo engine it's not any harder to wire up etc and you get better power, better reliability, better economy. It would end up costing you $4-5k+ to get a legal 1GGTE or 1JZGTE in there though. inb4 rotary or LS1 suggestion

Looks like it might have shut up shop? Wasnt open the other night I was in the area.

Car looks good at current height. Will be fun with a 4age in there!

How about instead of a smug reply you just behave better next time. Theres a time and a place, monthly meets are neither. Surely its not hard to understand how driving like a dick could lose us the carpark access. People dont need to know its OS to know that they dont want cars there anymore if people are acting up. Its really boring having to explain this,thankfully the topic requires no further discussion as everyones going to behave appropriately next time.

...That's why it was a good turnout. (kidding xoxoxo)

Quite an amazing segue into an EFI ramble. In other news, I will likely be there this time.

Out of all of the possible engines, this is one I never would have thought of... But it's actually a pretty damn good plan! None of the complexity etc of a beams motor to cause you headaches and cost $$$$, super easy smash it in there type engine swap. Especially since it's a factory EFI model car already, makes things so much easier. It will keep similar character to the original car/motor, while way better reliability and fuel economy. Cant go wrong.

Then once you'd calmed down Chris and found the keys, you'd be on your way.

oh cool! Something handy as well is to download 'circuit tools' which is another free download, and then export from racechrono as the. vbs format (i think) to load in the program. You can compare up to six laps at once in that program, instead of just two in RC.

I just went to my first trackday where I had my GPS setup working. This uses a netbook PC, a 20hz USB GPS reciever, and a program called Racechrono that you can download for free on PC/tablet/etc: http://racechrono.com/ So basically, when I was out on the track I could use this setup to show me split times and laptimes in real time. If I just completed a segment of the track quicker than last time, the laptop screen would flash green. If I just went slower, it would flash red. So super useful to help figure out what's actually faster or slower at particular parts of the track. In the program you can set your own 'traps' to mark out your split times to suit what you're trying to measure or acheive. Which is awesome. This worked well through the day, however there were some parts of the track where I'm still not sure which type of line is fastest. Since I had all of the laptimes logged, once I found some time I had a sift through the GPS data and find out what actually works best. On the Taupo full track I had my suspicions that a wider line through the start of the sweeper was better, and seemed to give a better line through the second half and onto the straight. But looking through a comparison of two lines, you can see this is not the case at all, red car vs blue car: Taking a tighter line meant I gained a bunch of meters which equated to about half a second difference by the time I reached the end of the straight. It's pretty cool to have information like this on hand! Based on some information I've gained from the GPS data, I've written myself a few notes about how to take a few of the corners differently for next time, and try knock some time off. If anyone wanted a quick and easy way to setup racechrono if going to a trackday, you can download it onto a tablet or android phone and just use the internal phone GPS to record the laptimes. It wont be as accurate this way, as generally internal GPS recievers in phones and tablets which are designed for navigation only run at 1hz. So if you're going 150kph, you're travelling about 40 meters in between each point that the GPS receiver reads. So having a higher sampling rate for the GPS is ideal, as well as a strong reciever that can pick up a lot of satellites to average the signal from. Most 'out of the box' GPS datalogging units designed for racing etc work at 10hz or there abouts. However, any information is good information. A 1hz GPS setup is still leagues ahead of what anyone had even 20 years ago, and you can use it for free with stuff you already own. Amazing!

Hey people, Thought I'd start a fairly broad topic tech thread, about various types of datalogging. So including things like: GPS lap timing Aftermarket ECU datalogging OBD port datalogging Using video as a follow up tool! And so on. Will post some jibba jabba in the following posts, feel free to contribute if you've got anything interesting relating to engine or car datalogging.

Holy crap 1.6g!

Hey Glenn, What are you planning on doing with the panhard rod on this one? I remember you saying that on your previous car you have/had an adjustable panhard rod so it raises or lowers the roll centre. Do you make it with different height holes at the 'body' end of the rod? Would be cool to see some photos when you get to this part.

Hmmmm, dont know too much about the dual sprints, I dont have a racing license or whatever. Or any real intentions of doing any real racing lol. Next trackday on the menu will be the Toyota 86 festival or whatever, at Hampton Downs in May. Cant wait for a burn around that track! Havent been yet.