Roman

So after a weekend of remaking the exhaust, while feeling dead sick the entire time... I remember why I like to muck around with CAD and so on, it's much easier to daydream about things than actually do them haha. Denham and Dave Sentra were ultimate GCs this weekend with helping me get this sorted, especially when I was suffering brain fade from about 9am each day with the flu. Thankfully Denham was happy to let me hold the dumb end of the stick while he worked some magic on remaking the exhaust! BrockLee and a few others helped out too which was all much appreciated. Now it's all 2.5" with mandrel bends, a resonator in the middle and a straight through muffler at the rear. I was expecting this to be on the obnoxiously loud side of things, but it's actually pretty sweet. The car's actually quieter at idle and low load, and sounds a LOT better. (less tinny) But I'd say it definitely picks the volume up a notch when you put your foot down haha. The rear muffler is flanged in a way that makes it super easy to swap out for a quieter (triple chamber) type of muffler instead if need be. I'm suspecting that the above mods may have freed up a bit of top end restriction, as after taking it for a quick drive I am shifting too late from 2nd to 3rd as it seems to zing there a bit quicker now. Pretty stoked! I've only got a tradgedy of a cellphone picture to show for the weekends efforts though, as I sold all of my DSLR gear last week to focus on a few other things over this coming summer. I've paid in for a Hampton Downs Twilight session on the 29th of this month (which is a Wednesday) if anyone's keen, a bunch of OS'ers are going so come along! Starts 4pm onwards. Here's a thread for it: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37070-hamilton-monthly-meet-october-29th-hampton-downs/ After that (assuming the car holds together) I'll be heading down to the OS Leadfoot event that weekend, then the OS drags in December for a rort down the strip. Hopefully it wont be too embarassing down the strip, but it could probably do with some traction brackets prior to then to help it get off the line a bit better. I'd be happy if it ran somewhere in the 14s. Super happy to have the car running again though! It makes me wonder how I kept any motivation while it was off the road for so many years.

I'm keen for sure! Tee up a time in the next few weeks.

Yeah when you pressurize the fuel, (pumping it initially) it adds heat. When you decompress the fuel, (The injector nozzle spraying into intake) it loses the same amount of heat in reverse as the pressure drops. So if you add a cooler in the middle, you end up with a lower temperature than what you started with. Any of the setups running super high pressures would have a fuel cooler before it gets to the rail. It's the same as how CRC or whatever sprays out cold from a pressurized can.

Yeah I guess also the higher the pressure you run, the more cooling you get from the pressure drop / state change too. I guess most EFI systems run at that cross over point between high enough pressure for injectors to have a nice spray pattern but not giving the fuel pump too much of a hard time. (Or causing horrific exposions haha)

It's generally reccomended that injectors run at maximum of about an 80% duty cycle at full load, but on a 4 stroke engine the intake valves are open less than 1/4 of the time. So sequential injection is more about making it run nice at low load I guess. Regarding accelleration enrichment. I guess if a consequence of the accelleration enrichment being wrong is the engine bogging, then perhaps you could test it by datalogging the TPS/rpms/vehicle speed on a flat straight road, get the car going at a consistent speed and engine load then floor it. Then make some changes, and do the same again. Look at the graphs and see if the initial accelleration moves closer or further from the point where your TPS gets whacked wide open. Although not sure if MS has datalogging with enough resolution to show that well enough. But just an idea... It's hard to quantify improvements with the butt dyno alone! I think I'll have another look into setting up MS or Link over the summer time. Missing out on the fun.

Paid! Even though my car is in bits, haha

The reason I suggest Matt is that he's blown up 10 zillion W series boxes before, but now seems to have them hold together with 450ish hp in his race car KE70. I cant think of anyone else who would know more about what makes them blow up, how to make them strong, etc etc. Send me a PM if you want some contact details.

Matt Dunn from Timaru is pretty boss with all things gearbox / rwd toyota / etc Although maybe a bit far to send if there are local options for you.

Since I had to pull it apart anyway to fix the gasket I have now modified my extractors (To solve gasket and ground clearance issues) in such a way that I'll need to remake the rest of the exhaust to make the car drivable. Pretty much instant regret / should have just smashed in another gasket haha. Hopefully I can remake the exhaust in a weekend though, with help of Sentra Dave's fancy lifting machine.

Definitely! I cant wait for this, I havent driven the downs yet. I guess I should pay my entry fee / finish exhaust

Yeah that upper rear roof wing thing from an MA61 would be useful as it would delay the point at which the air detaches from the roof. The lower rear wing on an MA61 is likely there to deal with the air that wraps around from the sides of the car, and stop it from interacting with the swirling air lower down at the back of the car. I'll have more of a play around later and post some pics with a few things added. Gonna carry on with the exhaust today though, hopefully it's a bit quieter with 2 mufflers.

To be honest I dont really want the car to look too much different to how it is, I like it looking like a normal car without crazy aero stuff or whatever. If I could concoct a spoiler of some sort that looks like it suits and acheives something, might do that. And maybe a front splitter, although for the small benefit it provides I'd rather keep the ground clearance and enjoy driving it more. I bought some Ferodo DS2000 pads, on reccomendation of the guys at racebrakes. I chopped up my extractors 2-1 section and reangled them, and shortened the pipe after the 2-1 section merges so it's easier to get in and out. So I might be able to pull the engine out with the extractors still on now, which would make things that little bit easier. But now I've got to remake the rest of the exhaust, haha. Will be using a hotdog style resonator thingy and a straight through offset oval muffler. Might be all of the louds, but I'll make the flanges and mounts so it can be easily swapped to a triple pass muffler if need be.

I think it's a terrible idea. Well, it does look cool in those pictures posted... But there are so many awkward nooks and crannies, even if you're just trying to do a shit job painting the inside of a car is a terrible job to do. Especially for the areas under the underseal, where you have to get it perfectly clean before paint prep. Thats like 80 hours work just for that haha. Seems like a good way to bust your own balls when throwing down some carpet will look IMO better take 1000th of the time. Most of the time cars just end up looking ghetto without carpet on the floor. It's a shitter of a task to finish, if you end up losing motivation 20 hours in.

Posting about how theres rust and stuff is little consolation for my lusting of 2002 ownership. You should sell it to me to help pay for your wedding, go on.

Havent used solidworks in ages, so thought I'd do some nerding. I've got a spare rear hatch that I've been thinking about putting some lexan or whatever in, and bang it on for trackdays. And then have been wondering if a wing or spoiler or whatever would be useful while I'm at it. so I drew a 2D model and ran it through the wizard machine thingy at 150kph. Air pressure: Air velocity: The air in the blue areas is only travelling between 0 and 50kph... If you've ever noticed raindrops only slowly crawling up or down your front or rear windscreen, this is why. A wing doesnt acheive much without airspeed flowing over it... (I reran the model with and without the lingling spec spoiler as pictured, it essentially made zero difference) Putting anything on the rear hatch similar to the TRD AE86 wing is likely useless because it's in dead air. As much as I utterly hate people putting roof wings on everything, because they look awful... It would actually help on a car of this shape. TL;DR: I should have spent this time in the garage doing something useful instead. Like start/finish remaking the exhaust. Chase Distributors in Penrose are GCs for exhaust parts by the way!

Your deadline is looming I could be keen for the 29th!

Its definitely false economy to think that buying an auto engine for cheap is going to save you money. I had to buy mine all in bits and it cost a heap more. Getting a whol engine/trans/loom/ecu/airbox etc is best way to go. If your engine doesnt have the airflow meter and airbox youre already fucked if trying to run standard ecu. Which might have a mare if it sees the autobox is missing.

Yeah even a phone based GPS setup is still pretty awesomely useful. But it depends on how much information you're wanting: 1hz reciever: (most phones/navigation systems) can tell you a laptime pretty accurately, as it can interpolate between points to figure out start/finish easy enough on a long straight. But not much more than that. 5hz receiver: Reasonably accurate showing cornering lines, wont tell you too much about exact braking points. 10hz receiver: good accuracy showing cornering lines and braking points. 20hz: Fast enough to have enough resolution for showing braking points, cornering lines etc. Even at 20hz though it still cant really distinguish the gear shift points. I would say something that had 5hz plus input from an accelerometer would be better than a 20+hz receiver on its own. Something on a tablet with all of this integrated would be the best option but I'm not sure how many have 5hz or better, or if any programs integrate the accellerometer data. As that would be some fancy maths I guess. Actually I should do some tests... I've got an android phone, Nokia phone, tablet, and netbook that I could all run Racechrono on simultaneously. But different receiver rates as I think both of the phones are 1hz, possibly the tablet too. It would be interesting to see how much of a difference there is. One of the main differences is that my crappy android phone takes about 5 mins to pick up satelites, and not very many. But the Netbook USB one picks up heaps instantly. So that factors into positional accuracy too I guess.

It's something my Dad bodged together, it's an external reciever that plugs into USB. I think you can buy the chipset but then need to mount it on a circuit board or something like that. So I cant use it with a phone, I've got a little net book that I use. I havent seen anything else that's 20hz. I'll try find out some more info! As it's a good setup... It can pick up satellites even if you're indoors.

Now im keen to see some butterfly type throttles, where the trumpets tip up with the plates haha. Nice work Dave.

Hmmm okay cool those pads might be the way to go then. I've driven on semi slicks before... They're a whole other level compared to street tires, awesome. I'll probably do a few more trackdays on the T1Rs... Not sure that I could fit that profile of tire without hitting the gaurds. Redoing my exhaust is going to be a priority over the semis at the moment, they way that I have made the extractors fit is a shameful abomination haha. Something for the fabrication fail thread.

TL;SUR WARNING: (Too long, Shut Up Roman) Trackday debrief! Had a precautionary look at a few things giving issues on the day. Brake pads, as suspected were FUBAR! Lesson learned, avoid the weetbix brake pads if they are going to be hot for a long time. Checked all four of the tires, it looks as though it's only the front right which had a really hard time. The tread on the other three seems more or less fine. But you can see that the entire side of the tread V shaped tread blocks have worn away, there's now only about half of it left that touches the road now: Just too much heat through the poor old T1Rs. So great on the street though! There was also a ticking noise that got a lot louder at the end of the day, maybe 3pm or so... I'd had my fun and the car wasnt going to get any quicker with the brakes fading so I was happy to call it a day. Had a look into this today, the first thing I suspected was that perhaps the valve clearances had tightened or loosened up (or I'd fucked it up to start with!) But a quick rummage around with the feeler gauges confirmed they were all still within spec. Which was good! Until it made me think that it might be a bearing or piston making the noise instead haha. It turns out that the racket was just coming from a gasket in the exhaust manifold which had blown to smithereens from too much awesomeness. Phew! It was good peace of mind to check the valve clearances though, as I havent checked them since doing them initially. And also, holy shit this is my new favourite piece of software: https://screentogif.codeplex.com/downloads/get/909048 Here are a few gifs comparing some sections of the track of my best laps between last time and this time. On the first corner of the track, I've found that it pays to pull it in tighter on corner exit... You end up getting a way faster run into the next few corners as you can see comparing the two here: Not having the 2 way diff that was pretty much a locker would have been part of the reason that I was able to turn tighter though, made a huge difference to how the car drove! Also found from watching previous videos, that I was always oversteering coming out of turn 7(?) which was slowing me down. But I was never using the full width of the track. So I made a point of keeping as wide as possible on the exit instead, you can see how it's helped.. And keeping a tighter line through the next part saved a bit of time too. And the part of the track which I've always found especially tricky! The sweeper. This time I was aiming to keep the braking zone as straight as possible and then just make a sharp turn at the end. This shaved HEAPS of time off my laps, as it ended up making for a much faster run on to the straight as well as the time saved in braking. Here's a look at the speed comparison through the sweeper part, by taking the straighter entry.. huge difference! If anyone's a regular for trackdays and wants some GPS software that's good, the program Racechrono is quite awesome. Although any GPS software is a really handy way to learn better lines a lot quicker than you would otherwise.

Smallport is in reference to the intake side right? The port which lets air in? The... Airport?

Save yourself a ball ache and just run the 6 speed with all factory bits. Using any of the W bellhousings means custom/spaced out flywheel, (or machining bellhousing) ring gear modification and some other mucking around. The only benefit would be if there was a significantly improved shifter position, but that depends on which W box you get. Regardless, your engine swap will likely go like this: 1. Cool, cheap engine with 200hp! 2. Tries to fit engine/gearbox, transmission tunnel needs enlarging. 3. Tries to fit engine, intake manifold doesnt fit. 4. Not to worry I'll convert to quads $$$$$$$ 5. Returnless fuel line is a pain, need custom FPR $$ 6. Tall motor, sump needs modifying $$ 7. Exhaust manifold needs to be remade $$$ 7. Now it needs an aftermarket ECU to run right $$$$$$$$$$ 8. Tuning dual VVTI $$$$$$$$ 9. Car needs cert $$ 10. Fixing any cert issues $$$$ 8. Now you've spend $10k haha. Super fun though! But definitely not the easiest or most cost effective swap. For same money spent, you could instead bang together a nice 4AGE NA or turbo setup with the money spent on fun bits rather than sorting out packaging or ECU issues.

Yep! I get what you're saying. The next logical step once this is done, is to build a 4age powered jetboat or aircraft haha.