Roman

Yeah I'm always in need of extras so hoping there's a place you can just go buy a pack of 50 of each or whatever. Most existing ones are a bit buggered.

Hey, weird sounding question. But if I go to an engineering shop they always have engineering spec nuts and bolts which have different size heads for the thread size. So for example, need to use a 13mm socket instead of 14mm for same thing. I've got plenty of Toyota nuts and bolts but they're all rusted and shit house! So is there anywhere I can get some brand new, but the same as what I've got? I like the idea of being able to fix 95% of potential problems on my car with just 10,12,14,17,19mm sockets and spanners.

What happens in cars with big cams and lots of overlap at idle. Does that end up showing as rich, or lean?

Viewed thread title, expected very little. Viewed thread, very impressed! Awesome idea, well executed, well written up. Hand shandies all round.

I've put the rego on hold for three months, because it'll be a while till I can get the clutch out. In the meantime however, I thought I'd do some work on other bits on the car write a haiku: Registration holds with more confidence than clutch. Fuck you, stupid car In super fricken awesome news though , Link decided to make all of their unlockable ECU upgrades free with the lates bout of firmware for the G4+ So this means I can now setup knock control, extra datalogging, OBD2 junk, and electronic throttle control if I want. I was looking at buying knock control eventually, so pretty happy with that. So I'll wire up the knock sensor to the proper input now instead of laptop and headphones. I'm super keen on launch control and flat shifting! These were existing features but need a clutch switch wired in. I thought this might be a bit tricky to do, but I had a look under the dash... The clutch pedal has a stopper bolt to limit its travel. The brake pedal has a stopper too, but it's threaded switch instead of a bolt. That has the same thread pitch, woot! So I got another brake switch from a Toyota at Zebra today, just need to screw it in and wire it up. Easy! This in conjunction with traction brackets and the higher rpm limit now, i reckon I might scrub a little time off my PB of 14.3 at the drags.

Yeah, my flywheel is a chromoly one which is quite thin and swiss cheesed with holes around the edges. So not sure if that's better or worse for dissipating heat, I guess it builds heat quicker but stores less as well. Maybe I need a cooling pipe to my bell housing too haha.

Hey guys, Looking for some reccomendations on clutch options. 3SGE + 6 speed. I want something that drives like a normal clutch, but is more resistant to heat and high load situations. (Lots of trackday high rpm gear shifts, b-owts, launches at the drags etc) Requirements: -Preferably a full faced, sprung disk. -Resistant to the heat of lots of trackday gear changes and the odd launch at the drags. -Reuse TODA flywheel rather than buying whole new system if possible -Preferably not noisy for normal driving (Otherwise ORG single plate would be ideal) Previous experience: -Full faced no name standard clutch lasted 10,000km but then finally gave up mid way through a trackday. I havent pulled it out to check what's wrong but I suspect that the friction material just shit a brick from the heat from lots of 8000rpm shifts. -A mis-shift (by someone else) caused the springs to explode out of an exedy 5 puck, had cracks all over the metal centre of the disc. It was also mildly annoying to drive 'normally' with. Thoughts/experience? People have reccomended Exedy options but it's hard to tell what's junk/same as what I've had or what will actually withstand heat etc. Wasnt overly impressed with Exedy 5 puck in the past. Anyone used TODA stuff? Thinking I could get the cover and disk to match the flywheel, as presumably it's a bit gruntier than standard. But it's a bit spendy. It seems like the difference I'm after just comes down to quality of friction material. Which makes it impossible to know what's actually good or not.

I'll bring the yellow one!

This is pretty cool: http://www.themotorhood.com/themotorhood/2015/5/15/sleepy-sedan-k24-powered-honda-integra 12.8 on the quarter, nice! Wonder what times it does on track.

I found a car that same as mine that was being wrecked, and cut out an overlength section of the same panel. Then ground off all of the captive nuts, and now the new one bolts over the top of everything, rather than between the gap. A lot stronger this way than brackets for the cut piece, if you're able to find another car like yours to chop.

Looks good man! Bring it to ellerslie meet on Wednesday I'll take some fancy pics for ya. And/or take me a for drive, keen to hear some 4age carina racket! Also, what's your Soarer? *Z1* by the looks? pics plz

Same here man, even completely original spec it was so awesome to drive! 80s Soarers are just so fuckin sweet.

Yeah I dont think we need a 5M for anything, but will see if it's healthy before making any decisions. Either way the car will stay as is, in one piece for a while yet until it's needed as an organ donor for the other car. And yeah I shat bricks when I saw it was a 3.7 as well... We'd better treat it nicely, wont be easy to replace haha.

That was when we were leaving from, not where I live unfortunately! But yes an awesome view from there. It was about 45 mins drive north of Auckland (Kaukapakapa)

Epic thread bump! Still havent really done anything further with this, hahaha. Have been a bit occupied with other stuff (blowing up carina, fixing carina, blowing up carina, fixing carina....) However! An MZ11 came up for sale, and we figure it might have some cool bits, or otherwise clips/trim/etc that is less than great on ours. So we went on a mission: If I had to use two words to describe the external condition of this car, they would probably be 'super fucked' heh. Mega rusty, most panels kicked in, roof kicked in! Sort of a bummer but it's a parts car so who cares Came with some cool stuff like headlight squirters, and we were missing one of the fibre optic light thingys you can see on top of the gaurd in this pic: And aaaaahhhhhhhhhhhh yeeeeaaaaaaahhhhhhh about that rust. It looks like the car was parked up for rust reasons rather than mechanical ones, it's got a sweet looking 5MGE in it. Which might start up and be fine, but fuel pump has crapped itself. One thing though is that the interior is EXCELLENT. We will definitely be swapping all of this over into the other car. Not sure if I like the burgundy better than the blue, but the dash isnt cracked, and the (cream) carpet and seats are in amazing condition. Stoked! It's also got cruise control so we'll put that in as well, overcomplicated coupe life Some scumbag kicking panels in, ggrrr.... We've been looking for ages for a 3.7 ratio F series diff, which this has. So we're super chuffed about that! Will make for some sweet cruising rpms when running 15" wheels, with a lot smaller rolling diameter than JZX100 stuff. Either way, it's got me a bit more motivated to get stuck into working on the other car. I think the next thing on the menu is to pull the motor back out, tweak the engine positions slightly, then after that it's laregely panel, paint, reassembly. Cant wait to drive it again one day!

If you're going by the letter of the law then an ECU swap requires a cert, so does the power increase. But in the real world...

You can have a look here for the comparison: http://www.linkecu.com/products/engine-management-ecus/g4plus-feature-matrix If you just want it to do the same as your existing ECU but with a nicer tuning interface etc, then yeah Atom will be awesome no doubt. But if you want to setup things like flat shifting, launch control, nitrous, knock sensing, gear detection, shift lights, warning lights, dash switches, etc etc... Then you might find that an Atom doesnt have enough inputs or outputs. I've been using the extra inputs and outputs for things like datalogging MAF sensor values, extra temperature or pressure datalogging, clutch switch for launch control, speedo signal for gear detection, outputting to a configurable shift light, and a few things like that. Some people use switches for things like turning on NOS, switching ECU maps, switching boost level, turning traction control on/off, setting a pit lane speed limiter, and... what ever else you can think of really! So if you want to tinker with things then in my opinion the more inputs/outputs the merrier. But if you just want to wire it up, get your car tuned and leave it as is - Atom or Storm will likely do everything you want to do, easily. If you're looking at some options for a new ECU and are going to be tuning it your self or using for datalogging or whatever, I reccomend downloading the software and having a look first... As you'll be staring at it a lot later on so you want to make sure it suits you / runs on your PC / whatever. Most ECU manufacturers seem to have free downloads for their tuning software.

I think it just comes down to how many inputs/outputs you need/want. If an Atom can do everything you need, then there's no point spending money on something more.

The back story is that you've got a G4 EDIT: Here's the blurb from the update notes: New Features · Removed ECU feature unlocking. ECUs will now have feature sets as per the firmware 5.4.1 feature differentiation chart. Note, ECUs are still shipped as locked and need to be enabled but all previously purchasable features will become enabled after this firmware update. So your guess is as good as mine. On the forum, some people are raging that they paid for an update thats are now free, even though they now get the rest of them for free they aint happy that other people get the same thing. "A pig can find shit anywhere"

The 5.4.1 firmware update unlocks all of the options for free for the G4+. (depending on model I think) Sweet! Havent had much of a play with mine yet, but looking forward to getting knock sensing setup. It will be awesome to have knock properly integrated as one thing I've been hesitant about is advancing the timing without any feedback I can review.

I love toyodiy as much as the next man but you cant trust a list like that, it's mostly just lumping in Chassis which have an M motor in it. I bet that a GA70, MA70 and JZA70s have different knock sensor part numbers if you looked them up. You might be searching for a while if looking for a knock sensor from an LX76 diesel Mark 2... Trust me I'm the cheapest kernt ever and always the first to hit up toyodiy for something haha... But wont ever mix and match knock sensors, after spending years chasing my tail for engine problems caused by fitting the wrong one. So long as you double check that any of the above models have the same part number on knock sensor, then good to go.

"pretty much every Toyota runs the same knock sensor" no no no no no no no and 10 million more no. You MUST get a 7MGTE knock sensor, or something with exact part number. (So, you probably need the 7MGTE one) And no you cant just loop it off. Toyota knock sensors are filtered to listen out for just a specific frequency that's generated when an engine with that particular bore size / block construction etc has knock. So if you put one on from a different engine it's listening out for the wrong thing. I've gone down this path before, trust me that it will cause you an infinity ball ache if you put the wrong knock sensor on there.

I think that dude's dressed so he doesnt fizz on the driver.