Roman

sofa king sweet

Double post, coupe life

More or less, yeah! So it would pull air from just behind the headlights. Or perhaps have some longer ducting on that far side, if there's an area close by which is naturally at a higher pressure when the car is moving.

Aahh true! Nah I havent seen that before, will have a geez later. Man I'd love to get a tunable ECU - But wont be able to for a long time yet. Maybe by next summer. In the meantime I'll have to stick with satisfying my nerdy urges with trying to squeeze some more out of the motor on standard computer haha. It doesnt hurt to learn how things work in the meantime.

Oooooohhhh aahhhhhhh I just found a new function in my OBD2 program, that can datalog some of the sensors and export to a .CSV file. The air filter box on my engine is a bit crummy at the moment, it's a Celica panel filter box flipped upside down with part of it chopped off to clear the bonnet. More or less like so: So it gets a bit hot - I've noticed intake temps seem to be 10-20 degrees above ambient. Which makes sense since the radiator fan is blowing hot air pretty much straight into it haha. So my next mission is to try and improve the air intake a bit, in a few different ways: -Reduce the % above ambient temps of the intake air under all conditions -Place the air feed in a high pressure area (in front of the radiator panel basically!) -All going well should result in a higher peak airflow meter reading (more power?) Currently I'm not really sure which variables affect intake temperature so time to datalog and get a baseline result. I'm suspecting that possible contributing factors could be: -throttle position -Airflow meter reading -vehicle speed -engine rpm. So datalogged these and then came up with some graphs: They all show a similarish trend, because when you put your foot down the speed & RPM increase as well as the MAF signal. Heh. However, looking more closely at some of the areas where speed is high, engine rpm is high but the MAF signal varies it shows that the temp drops when the airflow ramps up, and but then temperature increses up again shortly after the MAF signal drops off. Even when RPM and speed are high. Currently the intake temp ranges from 25 degrees to 34, on a cold night at 11pm when it's 14-15 degrees ambient. The highest MAF reading was 151.59 grams per second at 7100rpm, the spread of readings looked like this: The 45 degree trend line that you can see is how much air the motor is able to pull in at full throttle. So its a good thing that this keeps climbing and has a peak at 7100rpm - if it wasnt making power anymore this would start tapering off. Factory peak HP and torque looks like this, max hp 7000rpm max torque 6000rpm: so it's possible that the porting to the head and the exhaust design are helping it make a little extra puff higher up still. Or maybe the Altezza manifolds being a little more efficient than the FWD ones. The OBD unit only samples at 1hz so I didnt get any readings over 7100rpm but it's possibly higher again nearer 7400. To get an idea of how well the cylinders are filling with air for each combustion at a given RPM (I think this matches up to max torque?) You can just divide the MAF signal by the RPM at the time and graph it: Since my current intake effectively gets colder air when it's huffing more in, it's perhaps possible that if there was a supply of colder higher pressure air all of the time then the cylinder filling on either side of the peak might improve. It will be interesting to see how these things compare when I've remade an airbox lid... And how it compares to a dyno run when I put it on there some day.

Too low

I ended up getting an aliexpress fuel pump. Time will tell whether this is a bad idea haha. But the factory in tank pump was just a motor with a plastic impeller on it? Hardly seems worth the $250-$300 that people were asking locally for a non genuine replacement. Anyway, one VERY surprising thing about replacing the pump. I'd have thought a dodgy pump just affects when you're going full rpm full throttle and it isnt able to deliver enough fuel. But for whatever reason, now the cars idle, low end, mid range etc is all way better too! Perhaps a fuel pump is under more load when the fuel isnt going anywhere but through the FPR and back into the tank? Or when it starts failing it just means it cant hold pressure anymore. But the car can now idle stable as low as 650rpm. Where as previously it wouldnt hold anything below ~1000rpm. Doesnt make sense to me how this is fixed by a fuel pump, but whatever! I thought getting some GPS data might help see if it's better or worse... Over a particular speed range compared to some data from last trackday, it's 6% quicker since exhaust and fuel pump. So that means previously I must have been losing ~10hp at the wheels across the powerband to either my crappy exhaust, or running slightly lean, or both.

Fuel pump fitted, GPS shows that since new exhaust and new fuel pump the car is 6% faster over a particular speed range compared data on the straight at last Taupo trackday I went to. Awesome! There are some concerning wheel bearing noises though which warrant further investigation before I go for a hoon at Hampton though, so that's me out for tomorrow. Have fun, see you guys at the next one coming up!

This car is the greatest thing.

My fuel pump arrived today, yuss! Might be able to make it.

Also if you want it to handle well (by which I mean the best it can on a reasonable budget) then super low is not the answer. Even my car which isn't really low is too low for the standard 4 link to give me good traction, without traction brackets. Which is half of a fix. When you look at the 4 links they will slope down towards either the body or the diff. If it slopes down towards the body you are going to have bad traction. But yeah probably the best thing is just set the ride height to what you think looks cool then make it work from there haha.

Yeah keep it 4 link + panhard rod if you want to keep things simple. IRS would be complicated to get right / doesnt share the rear floorpan with liveaxle model. If you've got vented discs on your struts then there's zero point in going to x7 stuff. AE86 stuff has smaller wheelbearings/calipers/discs/etc. There are a few options for big brakes, but pretty much all of them involve running spacers and/or wheels with good spoke clearance. If not driving on the track then good pads and fluid is by far the simplest option that will work well... The big single pot setup works pretty well.

I think he's meaning just for the sake of bench testing the valve clearances with cam advance, not running the car that way.

The problem that he has in this case is that VVT makes it more complex. When he winds it over by hand the intake valves will be in the retarded position. But when the VVT advances the cam, it brings the valve timing forward by 20(?) degrees or so, and it might be during this advance that there are piston to valve contact. A good example - a while back someone turbocharged a beams motor, using low compression pistons from an engine that had the valve cutouts on a different angle to the beams head. Checked the clearances with plasticine, all good. However got the motor running and started tuning it... Advanced the cam timing and boom. pistons ate all of the intake valves.

The valve cutouts in the piston arent necessarily there to make sure that you can rotate the valves 360 degrees without hitting the pistons. As at TDC your valves will normally not be fully open so the cam timing keeps the two things out of phase even if they hit together if there isnt a cambelt. If you've got higher lift/duration than standard, it will likely be an interference engine now anyway. (assuming it wasnt already) Many motors are like this from factory... These are the ones where cambelt failure means an exploded engine, rather than a car that stops running haha. Probably the best way is to setup the cambelt and timing as you're intending, then lock the crank angle in place while at TDC on #1 then turn the cam with a cresent through its range of motion for VVT. (assuming this doesnt do anything bad to the pulley) Then check the clearance based on that.

Holy moly this is hardcore! Awesome resto

I'll come along for a nosey even if car isnt finished yet.

That's awesome about the lead plugs! It's gone from... a very complicated problem that only has work arounds at best. To.... a simple problem that was easily fixed. Gotta love it when that happens, because most of the time it's the other way around!

#3 cylinder on a straight 4cyl is often the first to blow up. Depending on coolant flow #4 cylinder is the last to get coolant, but #3 is sandwiched between 2 other cylinders smashing out lots of heat. So it naturally runs the hottest and is first to say YEAH NAH.

For 2D stuff it's just a case of holding a big sheet in place with no amazing accuracy and zapping around the inside with water/laser/whatever. So it's easy in terms of cad and machine setup, the end user can likely supply a cad file and it doesnt require as much of a skilled operator and there's much less chance of fucking it up. So there's low labour cost/materials cost/skill required/etc. Which is why it's popular for people making flanges etc that way, as it can be done cheaply and it saves you a heap of time, However with 3D stuff the operator needs to find/use an appropriate block of material, set up cutting routines, etc etc which it's impossible for the end user to know how to do. So there's always going to be that additional labour cost, which IMO is why it's always going to be a prohibitively expensive option for one off car stuff. Especially if it doesnt fit first time! So regardless of how they work the costs it's going to be spendy and difficult to quantify that cost before doing the actual work. If you were making one of something prior to smashing out 1000 then it's cheap(er) for each part. But all of the setup costs get soaked up in the first piece if it's a one off. It will be cool when the 3D printers gain momentum though as most of those overheads will likely dissapear as theres 'free' complexity to shapes rather than becoming increasingly costly.

Not me... But I might get one if I've got a fuel pump before it sells out haha.

Feck yeah! Great work

I asked around a few local suppliers, prices for a fuel pump were between $180-300 for OEM equivilent but not Toyota Genuine. No one really wanted to give me any confirmation on what brand or whatever, so there's no way to know that I'm not just buying a $20 Ebay one anyway So I did just that haha, Aliexpress $50 shipped. Cheers for the steer in the right direction Rookie. It looks as though fuel pumps from the 90s model Toyotas will fit up fine too, so might look for an ST202 or similar equivilent at Zebra or wherever and keep that as a spare for long trips incase my Ali special shits the bed.

Yeah i have been thinking about it! but i dont think it would be possible. Partially because of where its located but also its a mission to get in or out even when the tank is on the ground. Needs to do a cork screw to get past the baffles and id probably need to cut half the floor out haha.