Roman

Okay thanks, what is the actual clutch plate that you use, obviously there isnt a Toyota one available because its normally dual mass. 3SGTE clutch plate or something? As I think mine obliterated itself because it was a cheap aftermarket unit. But not sure what's actually better to use.

4th of September, heading from Cairns down to Brisbane in a campervan over the span of a week. Should be fun!

I'm imagining it'll be fairly rowdy compared to before... With no small diameter pipes there's not much blocking doort noises either I dont think. When I've driven the car with just bare throttle body its friggen noisy.

Parts cutting was a success for the first half, all the bits fit up nicely with a tape test. Now just waiting on getting it tigged together, then figure out some way to hold it up when it's in the car.

This is super cool man! Look forward to seeing how this progresses.

Looks good Ed, look forward to seeing it in person some time.

Aahhh yep my bad, indeed it is. There is still another electric pump and stop valve in the engine bay though, as I described - not sure what it looks like though.

If wanting to divert the coolant to one thing or the other then there's an electric valve in the heater circuit for that as well. (Prius)

The same way that he would if there were no water lines connected (oil only)

I cant see why it wouldnt work, annnnnddddddd A prius (There's one at Zebra, at last check) has good parts for this idea. They need to keep the heater going even when the motor is off, in the engine bay there's a thermos tank for hot coolant, and a 12v electric water pump designed to pump the heater circuit. So you could use the pump from that, and then any old water based heater core, and lines in between.

Need to go to G series to have any chance of finding ratios close to that. 3.7 is the nearest ratio I know of in F series and it's friggen hens teeth.

After making 100s of CAD drawings and cardboard mockups After making Dozens of CAD drawings and cardboard mockups After making about 6 CAD drawings and cardboard mockups, I've got the final shapes for everything. The finalised design shows about 0.1kpa pressure drop across the whole thing when stationary. If moving forward at 100kph it gets positive pressure right to the bellmouth when drawing 170 grams/sec. Notbad.jpg Time will tell if I'll ever see positive pressure at the map sensor though, not holding my breath on that one. I should have some lasercut bits turning up for part of it this week. Then when the car's going again, that's the exciting part! (Posting meaningless graphs about pressure readings while nodding authoritively)

Thanks, will do.

Okay thanks, might check out some polyurethane sheet.

Hey guys, Looking for a sheet of flexible about 30cm x 30cm that can stretch and flex, and wont disintegrate upon contact with oil or fuel. Not direct or continuous contact, just dont want it to dissolve in an engine bay if it gets splashed with something. Any suggestions? Wetsuit material springs to mind as the stretchiness etc that I'd be wanting, but I dont think neoprene is particularly resilient to petroleum based products.

Hmmmm flipping back through some notes it looks as though the reccomended settings from Glenn say it should max out at about 28 degrees instead of 22. So maybe I was just too chicken to advance it further without some form of knock monitoring. It's a work in progress haha. 38 degrees advance still seems like heaps though!

Jeepers I'm only running 22 degrees at 6000 and my max is 23 degrees at 8000. Although at a guess EGTs are going bananas, if we are taking cues from the 02 sensor cutting out sometimes and my alternator melting.

I hehehe'd Also, just chiming in because [sw20 owners thread] We've got a gen 1, faded red, targa top, auto SW20. The worst iteration of an MR2 ever made. Still fun to drive though If you want to keep driving an MR2 for any length of time, just save the money and get a gen 3. Better car in every possible way. Red gen 1/2 NA SW20 is a poor mans MR2, not a poor mans Ferrari

Is it wrong that this makes me tingly in the pants region? No. No it isnt.

MOAR off topic nonsense with no work done on car haha. I thought I'd draw up the throttle body as well, and a proper bell mouth. So including the throttle plate, throttle shaft, bolts, etc. Previously I'd been specifying a mass of air being sucked through and looking at the pressure drop. But if you want to figure out if changing something acheives an increase in mass flow you do the opposite. So I created a pressure drop at the rear of the TB, and adjusted it until the mass flow rate roughly matched what my engine consumes (~150 grams per second is ~6000rpm at WOT) So with a bare throttle body, 1kpa pressure drop = 150 grams per second flowing through it. Notice where the red arrows are, because the air needs to turn the corner its reducing the effective diameter of the pipe. Then with a bellmouth added, drawn to the ideal proportions and same pressure drop. mass flow rate bumps up to ~190 grams per second, easy to see why. Then if I "Half shaft" the throttle body shaft. Bumps up to 203 grams per second. If I rounded the leading edge of the throttle plate (instead of square) and tapered the rear half of the throttle plate to a knife edge, increases to 211 grams per second. None of this potentially means anything because it's just DaveScience but its fun to muck around with and learn about things. Now of course fitting a bell mouth and those other things wont mean my engine sucks in 211 grams/second of air. It just means that it will suck 150 grams of air with a reduced pressure drop. So a higher air pressure around the runners. However it is seeming increasingly feasible to reduce the existing ~3kpa pressure drop by a fair bit. I'm on a maintenance plan of using solidworks only often enough to stay consistently awful. But my understanding of the flow modelling program is improving slightly heh.

You can buy an unfiltered knock sensor for friggen cheap: http://www.aliexpress.com/item/GM-Knock-Sensor-Ignition-Knock-Detonation-Sensor-for-2013-Chevrolet-Malibu-12623095/1738801957.html Or some similar ones which have a wire/plug end on. (Donut shaped GM knock sensors are all wideband as best I know) Bolt it to your motor, then sheilded wire to a 3.5mm jackpoint and plug it into your laptop as an amplifier and then use headphones to listen to the signal. $30 for some extra safety vs a potential engine replacement is a good investment - and it's interesting to listen to. I cant hear much of the engine over exhaust and intake noise at WOT, cant hear knocking like you can with a quieter car.

How do you street tune ignition timing without a knock sensor or dyno?

2 stage injection will be going as soon as Link releases their next firmware version which supports it better for NA stuff. There's no point in setting it up prior to this, as I'd just have to redo it again. But it's on the cards, due in a month or two. Already been there done that with quads, it was easily the worst money I've spent on this car. For a variety of reasons. That ship has sailed already. None of the above means anything either way until I've got a clutch, which happens some time after my Aussie trip. Remaking an air filter box costs almost nothing apart from time, which during winter I've got plenty of. Once it's done I can easily compare to existing data to see if there are tangible improvements.

That's the way of the world, newer motors are pretty much always better. Cars arent too bad to other things though, imagine if you were using a 25 year old PC, how bad that would be Oh yeah. For the love of god, do not listen to the frothing idiots who will tell you to put a V6 in your MR2. Toyota V6s (apart from the new ones that cost a crapload) are utter garbage. 2GR or bust! Yes the gen 1 version before they made the cars more understeery. I found it to be good, except that most of the work in an MR2 seems to get done by the rear tires, the front just stops the car scraping on the ground. So at the track, the rear tires overheat waaayyyy quicker than the front, and once they start losing grip you cant stop sliding everywhere, so they get hotter and you lose even more grip. The Carina (on same sized rims, same tires) heats the tires much more evenly, the rears ever so slightly get hotter first. I probably could run it on 91 if I had to, and programmed the ignition to pull lots of timing out. But I run it on 98 so that I can advance the timing a bit more, with safety margin. My daily driven car has an 11:1 compression ratio that I run on 91 though, but it's designed to run on shitty gas and doesnt exactly get a thrashing. Bellmouth cost less than a beer at the pub. So the point is that it's good considering the price, and still better than a naked inlet. But $$$$ ones likely cost $$$$$ because it's more a lot more difficult to make the ideal shape.

Hey Swampo, you may hate me for this but my engine is one of the least common ones, it's out of a gen 5 SW20 haha. Then put Altezza bits on to suit front engined RWD. Reason being that I used to own a gen 1 SW20 that I put a beams motor into, then I rebuilt this one to swap in later but got sick of working on a mid engined car. This car originally had a 3AU engine (AW10 equivilent) Which is less than stellar! One of my main objectives with the car is to maintain some simplicity and ease of maintenance/troubleshooting, hence NA. The Caldina 3SGTE is a great option for an SW20. When I changed my engine from a gen 2 3SGE to beams motor, I had more torque, more power, and better fuel economy by a fair margin. It was winning all round. Snap oversteer is a myth!