Roman

Puhuhuhu

In other news, I've been learning how to use solidworks again. But I'm getting a bit stuck with the UCS I can figure out how to make a new plane on the face of something, but how do I make a new plane that's say 90 degrees rotated from that? I'm sure there's a simple answer but it's just a kick in the balls coming from Autocad to Solidworks.

Suggesting a K swap for everything is an idiotic one dimensional opinion that doesnt suit anyone without excellent fabrication skills, lots of time and/or $20k to spend. I am not in any of those 3 categories.

I've been thinking about importing some of this, and see how it works for some automotive stuffs: http://www.hytechsales.com/insulating_paint_additives.html Might make my floor near the exhaust a bit cooler / keep intake manifold from heat soaking perhaps. Possible start of an obsession with various engine bay temperatures, hhhnnnggg HPC on the exhaust manifold would probably be 90% of the battle done with though.

Hello friend, Do you have nerdy thoughts? Nerdy thoughts that you're afraid to tell your freinds in regular spam, for fear of judgement? Sometimes, do you just want to yell MATE YOU CANT USE GRADE 4.6 FOR THAT MATE! MAAAAATTTEEEE. Welcome! The jug has boiled, it's temperature is 338k which is still less than 0.2 standard deviations from ideal brewing temperature. So feel free to make an optimal cup of tea within the next 65000 milliseconds.

Oh yeah so that guy at the drags who had that Renault, which looked to be awesomely engineered in every possible way. He had a radiator fan shroud, that covered the whole radiator. But the fan was mounted to one side... Then on the other side there were two square flaps hinged on the back face of the radiator shroud. So this meant that when the fan was blowing, it would pull the flaps shut and seal the shroud so all of the air would come through the radiator, and out the fan. But when there is more pressure inside the shroud than behind it, (More air is flowing through the radiator than the fan can deal with) the flaps open to let the air bypass the fan. Bloody good idea! Although his radiator was tipped over a bit, so not sure it would work as well for one that's standing upright.

I remember this thing handling really awesomely at Nats... Will be even better with a fair stack more power than before! You going to come to trackday in March? Dooooo eeeeettttt

Dis gon' be good!

Holy shitballs thats some rust alright!

Those new trumpets looked cool. Was cool seeing this at the drag day! But get a muffler au!

It sure was, it was the hub of any socialising on the day, and you've done an awesome job to get it done in such a small timeframe. I had a sit in the seat at lunch time, and it was comfy as. Top work!

Yes you'll need new shims, the size of which is set by getting the tooth engagement correct (so it isnt tight to turn) It's not that they both need to be thinner, it's that you need to move the diff slightly to the left or right to get the tooth engagement correct. So thinner on one side and thicker on the other. It's a bit of a fiddly job that's important to get right. The live axle diffs are easy but for this sort of thing I'd take it to a diff shop. In other news, dont suppose you've got a spare 3.7 crown wheel and pinion?

Just had drag day this saturday gone! Had an awesome time, managed to get 15 runs down the strip. With a tire pressure drop to 25psi, fastest run of the day was 14.36 @ 96.1mph (154kph) so pretty stoked that it went way better than estimated. As the day went on I was getting worse and worse axle tramp, suspect that I may have flogged out some of the suspension bushes. Damn useless 30 year old parts not being able to take severe abuse! Haha. Some traction brackets are definitely on the cards and maybe new bushes. I also datalogged a stack of engine data and GPS data on the day, which I've yet to sift through. These might give some interesting clues as to what's time/money best spent on improving the car from here. No pictures of this car from the day yet but I'll update when some come through.

I'm keen too for the twilight bandwagon!

Yeah thats a big oaf of an oil pan! Rookie a factory beams motor baffled sump with minor mods is good for 1.9g without oil issues. No reason why a k motor couldnt have a wet sump banged together that does the job too? Although in saying this ive managed to bang mine on the ground. The extra clearance of dry sump would come in handy. But not worth the trouble for that alone.

Condescending comments about people doing anything else, but I dont see your K24 build anywhere either? Or is following your own broadly brushed advice too expensive and difficult? In other news, were any (all?) of these engines tipped over a bit from factory? In terms of sump angle etc. It seems like a behemoth of a thing when stood up straight, do they have a gank lean in FWD setups like Toyota motors do? One of the best things about FWD cars is how they can have that sweet super low nose and good aero. So guessing they tip them a bit? Love the shape of the Torneos DC2s etc with the super low front. Not a fan of cut or lifted bonnets to fit things.

The Atom is cool, but it's more Toy than Car I reckon... If I had a 10 car garage I'd have one in there for sure! But if I could have something as a 2nd car for the weekends etc I'd prefer something a little more usable... Something with a roof and body panels makes it a lot more likely to be driven during the 75% of time that its raining in Auckland haha.

A K2*A powered MR-S would be freaken sweet. Super light, lots of revs, insane steering response. Pretty much a road legal gokart, much want!

Yeah cold air setup is definitely worthwhile, showed some good gains on mine.

We should organise an OS dyno day some time! I think if you can get about 20 people together they can have a dyno day at torque performance or where ever still. I miss the monthly dyno days they used to have, they were genuinely handy.

I guess the conclusion of this thread so far seems to be... A K24/20A isnt cost effective in RWD unless you're planning a big dollar big power build which is where the motor excels well past the other 4 cyl NA options. A standard engine doesnt look to be worth the trouble/$$$ unfortunately, if that's the level of build you can afford. Lucky for those FWD guys though where one of these plonks in nicely! Always looks awesome having ITBs out the front of the motor rather than the back as well.

That's quite impressive. Do you have any dyno plots you could post up of similarly modded engines?

How do you get 250hp NA at the wheels with a K motor? Not being facetious, wondering what's involved. Is that at the point of new pistons cams etc.

I knew that was coming haha.

Okay well another way to look at it. (As in, not talking from the point of view of a theoretical person with infinity money to spend) How much would it cost to put a bare bones standard engine in RWD format, and get 180-200hp? Are there better/easier options at this power level/price? How much does it cost to put a modified engine in RWD format, to get 240-250hp? Is the extra hassle worth it over an F20C+gearbox package which is a hell of a lot easier to do and potentially cheaper? How much does it cost to put a modified engine in RWD format, and get 300+hp? $20k? $30k? Potential that's outside of budget is exactly that, something that hasnt manifested itself and never will if the wallet is empty already. As cool as it is I dont think a RWD K motor is, and with exciting potential. I dont think it's an unsung hero of cheap NA power like you claim.