Roman

If you used a Bosch style wideband knock sensor, and cavitation causes vibrations somewhere in the 4-20khz range that's louder than the regular vibration levels then I'm pretty sure you could setup something useful even if it was just datalogging. If you had some sort of water speed sensor (or maybe just a MAF sensor on front of boat that you can correlate to air speed) then you could use a map that varies the impeller rev limit as the boat speed increases Or use the 3d launch control to do some weird stuff while the boat is below XYZ speed Orrrr you could setup the impeller speed as a boat speed input, then have a second speed input measuring actual water/air speed. Then use the traction control software to monitor 'slip' between the two. So if impeller speed goes (for example) more than 5x faster than boat speed it cuts ignition until it's below that threshold again. There's probably 10 different ways you could acheive the same thing, but it would be hard to know what actually works without some testing. Definitely doable though I reckon.

In other news, I adjusted my timing at cruise conditions of 30 degrees advance up to 40. Car seemed to run quieter as well and the exhaust note changed, unless I was imagining it. No knocking and I went from 10.something litres per 100km down to 7.4 notbad.jpg Tried advaning it 10% more but economy worsened. Will keep splitting the difference to find the best numbers.

Even warning lamps are a zillion times more useful than most gauges though. It's funny when people fit a zillion gauges that they're expecting to be able to monitor in realtime while driving at the limit. Like say you've got an oil pressure gauge. The only time you really need to be looking at it, is when you're pulling lots of revs in a high G cornering situation. Who in their right mind is going to be looking down at the dash, at a randomly sweeping needle while driving this way. As that's when you need to be focusing on your driving the most. Warning lights / buzzers are most certainly underrated. I guess in a way they're more difficult to setup though, because they need some logic applied in order to make sense. If you can have some logic to how the lights work, IMO an ideal setup would be: Speedo Temp gauge (or just hot and cold warning lights) Shift light Oil warning light that flashes if oil pressure is below XYZ when above XYZ RPM AFR warning light that flashes if the AFR is higher than say 16:1 when you're above 90% throttle Maybe a knock light Even better if you could just have a generic warning light/buzzer that can flash if any of the above thresholds are breached, and you know to just instantly get off the gas. Then maybe trundle back to the pits and see what's going on in your logs. Could be a heat thing? Might need to fit it slightly further downstream in the exhaust perhaps? Not running leaded fuel or anything?

I'll start a "Blew all my money on a fancy ECU but now no money for shoes and bread" thread

I got E-throttle cruise control working.... hooooly moly it's awesome. Apart from just novelty factor, it's going to be awesome for tuning cruising ignition timing and having really really really really repeatable results. As in, set cruise control to XYZ speed, do a run on a flat piece of road and datalog it. Do the same thing again with ignition timing advanced further, (or cam timing) datalog it. Rinse repeat until you find the lowest average KPA values (Or lowest average effective duty cycle of injectors) Based on what is possibly some dubious maths it looks like last night I was getting 10.25l per 100km, when running ~30 degrees advance at cruising. Ideal ignition timing in this area is going to be closer to 35-40-45 degrees advance so there's going to be some economy improvements there for sure. Previously the car's acheieved 7-8l per 100km and the factory ECU used to smash timing in right to the point of knock (And beyond it, when I had knock sensor problems) I'm looking forward to finding a good spot to test with and having a play around this week. Something else that will be handy with E-throttle: 1. Push button on the dash 2. This switches to a 2nd E-throttle map which gives a max of (for example) 70% throttle opening, and turns on datalogging 3. Mash foot to the floor, engine holds at 70% throttle every single time for repeatability of tuning that region of your map. 4. Push button on dash again when finished and throttle goes back to normal and datalogging turns off. Should be fun.

Hey Sheepers, What is your plan for the interior of the car? Like I understand how you can fix up the shell with welding, bog, paint, etc. But what is your plan if you've got worn looking seats/carpet/trim/etc? My lack of attention to detail / lack of caring what it looks like means the interior of my car is pretty shabby. But wondering what ideas there are for tarting up old looking bits and pieces if you have any advice, as one day I might try make it a bit more presentable.

Went out to make some doort noises tonight, had the hose for map sensor #2 mounted about 10cm in front of centre of the radiator Shows as being 3kpa above the barometer, (oh yeah, so I guess that's a 3rd map sensor...) could be higher with a bottom panel that seals that area in. Good place for an intake but I'll mount the hose closer to where my air intake will be coming from and see what happens. I guess that much was already obvious seeing how just about every factory car in existance gets air from there. But good to see it backed up with some numbers. Saw an AE86 on the motorway too which was cool

Holy shit dude, you've got a real talent behind the wheel. That was amazing, subscribed.

And what's life without graphs.

MUST USE ALL INPUTS / OUTPUTS haha

Yeah a few issues with knock sensing at the moment that I want to resolve first. Currently I've got a bolt wound into the old knock sensor hole, that I flattened off and tapped a thread into. Then another bolt holds the 'donut' knock sensor in place. However I've got my suspicions that this is making it less sensitive to knock / less than ideal as the sensor is maybe 20-30mm away from the block, on an upstand because of bolt height. I've found a part number for the correct tapered stud that threads into the block for holding a knock sensor, so it will hold the sensor directly against the side and give me some peace of mind that it's working correctly. Waiting for that to turn up before I spend more time on the knock sensing which is what I want to do before advancing timing some more. Off topic but out of interest I setup a catch can that goes Engine breather > catch can > line back into throttle body just before throttle plate Slipped the line for my second map sensor into the catch can to see what happens, I thought it would pressurize at high rpm/load. But regardless of RPM / load / etc it just stays at 1kpa above atmospheric pressure. I guess that means my piston rings are still doing something, haha. (And the lines aren't too small)

I've been playing around with Virtual Dyno a bit, it's a struggle finding a 100% flat road but it seems pretty consistent between runs anyway suprisingly. Cant wait to use it at the drag strip / compare to actual dyno. Says it should be in the region of 170-180hp atw which sounds about right. and tapering off a little towards 8000rpm but still making power which makes it worth holding each gear longer. Which correlates with how the car feels too.

Been out driving it a bit, so far so good. One annoying thing though is that the speedo and tacho are inaccurate. As in, if you make them accurate at say 5000rpm / 80kph they become inaccurate as the speed changes. I used a test PWM to plot the changes on both and see if they were close to linear or quite a way off. It looks as though the speedo is reasonably accurate from 80kph onwards but the tacho doesnt have a shit show of accuracy. (The flatter the line is on the graph, the more accurate they are. Sloping line = bad ) I've asked the guys at Link to see if they can add the option of using a calibration table to setup the tacho and speedo instead of just a simple multiplier. Also, a while back Glenn (CelicaRA45) Gave me some suggested settings for ignition timing for a standard engine. I've been too chicken to advance the timing without any form of knock sensing, but I'm almost setup with that now so will smash a bit more timing in. Looking at a graph of the difference there should be a few HP in it by whacking some timing in. Been driving it around a bit more though and it's damn good fun! I've set the E-throttle so that 70% on gas pedal is 50% plate opening... It's now SO much nicer to drive at low load/rpm. So really happy with that. Needs a bunch more kms on the clutch before testing out launch control though

My little netbook was an aaaabsolute piece of crap with the standard super slow hard drive in it. SSD and it's a whole new machine. Same goes for main PC, even if it's just one you run the operating system and a few core programs on. Makes a world of difference to boot up times etc.

I melted an alternator and switched to one with a vent like that. However the heat caused all of the epoxy insulation etc in the windings to shit itself, regulator was still fine even though it was the closest thing to the heat. So possibly not the issue (depending on alternator design though I guess) Toyota Caldina 3SGTE engines have them if that's an easier option than finding a BMW alternator or whatever. But I think if your factory location alternator on factory motor with factory tune is causing it to cook alternators and it's not normally a problem for 350Zs... I would still consider the wiring as the first in the list of suspected causes. Why no bulb, do you mean that you do not have the charge light on the dash?

All sensors tested and seems working well, except for the speedo drive so I'll have to recheck that. Buuuuut good enough to go make some doort noises. Felt great taking the car out for a drive again after so long! Finishing the airbox is in the too hard basket currently so I just fitted the bellmouth and coincidentally had a wide entrance pod filter that fits around the perimeter of that. Results so far... First thing is that the intake is frigging LOUD. as in, need earplugs sort of thing haha. This is the difference in pressure drop (scale is in KPA) between old intake and decent bellmouth with pod filter straight on the TB: Only drops 1kpa now, and only starting at 6500rpm+ So should be even better once the proper airbox is on there and getting some cold air! Cant wait to get back to a trackday or to the OS drags!

Oh so after some blathering about idle speed, I datalogged the Echo tonight. 20 deg is about 2200rpm! An engine that happily idles at 630rpm when warmed up starts out at nearly 4x that. A graph, because Roman: I've set the Carina to same goal RPMs in the Link so tomorrow I'll adjust idle throttle angle targets to match those above and see how it goes.

Cool thanks guys!

Speaking of pre crank priming... After changing nothing but a firmware update on ECU and finishing testing some sensors/wiring. I started the car again and then it was running like complete crap. Sounded like running on 2 or 3 cyls and would stall without foot on the gas. Ran around checking everything on the ECU seeing what's changed, double checked wiring etc. Then I realised that I'd had the key off and on a bunch of times since the last time I started the motor haha. So pre crank prime was tipping a bunch of fuel in that wasnt going anywhere until the first time I started it. Cleared spark plugs and once it cleared out it now runs great. Idle control with the E-throttle is friggen marvelous so far! I could never cure the stalling issue with the ISCV because I think the hoses were too small. Now it cranks and fires into life awesomely without the foot on the pedal, and when up to temp holds a nice 850rpm idle awesomely. Currently aim for 1200rpm when colder than that but I've still got to datalog from the Echo and see how that compares. But I'm pretty happy that I can give it a big rev and then when it drops back it doesnt stall anymore.

Yeah so oddly the switch has three pins out, but there are only 2 pins/wires out on the cable. Will be a prick of a thing to try fit a 3rd pin. 1k resistor doesnt seem to make any difference. Might get my old man to check this one!

Electronics question people! I bought a cruise control switch for my car. Measuring the resistance with the switch while it isnt wired up, I get: on 70 ohm cancel 153 ohm resume 230 ohm set 620 ohm I've got it wired up as an analog input, so it gets a 5V supply in one side and outputs to the ECU. However whenever I pull on the lever for any option, it zings to 4.98 volts. I've tried to find some circuit diagrams for how they're normally setup, one indicate that there's generally a 1kohm resistor on the output. Tried this, but same thing. Any ideas? Does it matter if the resistor is before or after the switch? Is there some formula or something for what value resistor would work? Or do I need to limit the current being supplied or something like that. It doesnt matter what voltages it ends up outputting, so long as they are distinct and between 0-5v.

http://www.diyautotune.com/catalog/canegt-channel-thermocouple-interface-p-542.html I'm keen to be able to monitor EGTs when I go 2 injectors per cyl, because there's a much greater chance of a cylinder running lean if one injector gets clogged or wiring fault or something. And it will be interesting to see how this relates to ignition timing etc. On the Motec basetune for 3SGTEs they add more fuel and pull a little timing on cyl 3 for safety purposes as it runs the hottest. So it would be interesting to see EGTs across a tune that's equal on all cylinders.

Just saw that Megasquirt EGT amplifier box 8 input channels for EGT probes and can output all as individual 0-5v or to a canbus. Friggen sweet!

Looks good! <3 those wheels.

Oh just saw this... We're keeping that spare car together until we're at the point of putting the other car back together. So no parts up for grabs but I'll keep you in mind if it comes time to get rid of it or whatever.