Unclejake

Perhaps a strange question..... But does a 180B have a recirculating ball steering box and if so is it mounted to the inside or the outside of the chassis rail? Ta.

Do eet. You will never look back.

If the pulley goes onto a keyway and needs to be moved further out I have in the past sliced 15mm off the neck of an old pulley and slipped that on the shaft first. It may not work in your application but perhaps something to consider?

^ I can't agree with you there. I don't think they train them.

^ If so then I have a Mk3 Cortina manual that you can have Boe. I will be tin the shed tonight from 8 till about 11pm

Emailling Burtons is a waste of time. I stopped trying about three years ago. You need to phone them - trouble is you need to say sober until 10pm one night.......... and even then don't expect a good result. They aren't very helpful.

Lump of alloy is going to be cheaper and stronger.

Mounting an engine on a spherical bearing (rose joint) seems like a waste of a bearing. I can't quite see the logic in locating the engine with something that is designed to move but can't because of the way it is being used. Did I miss something?. Edit - I guess it would be good to allow for errors in the mount fabrication that result in the mounts not aligning to the crossmember

I have been told that solid mounted motor = stuff falls off car due to vibration transmitted into shell rattling everything loose. I haven't tried it myself though.

What about getting your old mounts re made using Nolathane? Too weak?

If the vibration goes away when turning left it ain't going to be the driveshaft aow. It will be something that is either loaded or unloaded by the turn to the left.

Thanks Mang - but the additional weight of the adapters doesn't make that approach viable. I have one more Australian option in 4x108mm that might be perfect (albiet expensive). I am waiting on their response.... and then I might have finally found some wheels (13x7 and 4.6kgs each)

Has anyone had any real life experience making this change to an alloy wheel that is designed for tapered nuts? I have seen shank nut style rims slotted but not taper style/ I am not certain who to ask Any clues would be great.

//oldschool.co.nz/phpbb/viewtopic.php?t=6781

I assume you are talking about a 105E? I think the Supers had a removeable gearbox crossmember which makes a huge difference to the ease of transmission changes. A lot of Mk1 Cortina stuff fits quite well. If you want disc front you will need the very hard to find Consul 315 struts

Take the motor down to a tyre shop aow

Rattlegun FTW

^ I think I have heard that before somewhere

Kym - Mazda Familia steel wheels will fit your car and they look fantastic IMHO. Get the ones with lots of round holes around the outside of the wheel centre. Pick-a-Part is your friend.

If there are three different mastercylinder bore sizes i would have thought that there would be three different rear caliper/wheel cylinder sizes? Just guessing.

Sorry boe - As far as I am aware there is nothing that you can adjust to overcome a mis-matched bore/stroke/caliper piston arrangement. I haven't done the caluclations on your set up but one of three things will happen: 1) You wont notice a thing 2) The pedal travel will be very short and 'hard' 3) The pedal travel will be too long and 'soft' You need to factor your rear brakes into the equation too. EDIT: You should probably be OK with the fronts. Are you changing the rear calipers too?

Does the new mastercylinder match the new calipers for bore/stroke aow?

I think you mean spitback. But Yuh. I see what you are saying about the ambient pressure.

That (to my uneducated brain) sounds bloody dangerous? A sealed box full of fumes etc?

Mate - I think you are probably right. Superchargers don't create heat like a turbo does so an intercooler is not likely to be of much benefit. It is easy to throw good money toward a bad idea but good on you for having a go. It is the spirit of NZ motoring.