Unclejake

Agreed, especially given that it's going into a pre-airflow two door

Yeah/nah/I dunno. I almost gave him a ring last week but work/failed land deals have left me with almost zero free time. I shall call him soon. He only has two doors though. I need to get him two more

Lame UJ. I should have read this earlier. It's hardly a great distance to travel for me. Lame UJ. The dork.

20% negative camber? I don't understand

'Coughs'

If your coil -ve is wired to earth then what you are seeing at the spark plug makes sense. Good luck I'm not sure what would have caused the coil to die despite you cranking the motor over with no rotor. The points should have been opening and closing regardless. A coil will die if you leave the ignition on for an extended period of time with the points closed, so if there's anything else that happened prior to you trying to start the engine with no rotor let us know so we can help your diagnostics. It seems odd.

This is correct, but if modifying the wiring back to have the coil -ve post hooked up to the dizzy doesn't solve your problem then check your method of testing the coil before spending any more money. They have a lot of resistance in them by design I wouldn't be keen on changing to an electronic distributor while you still have an unknown fault Also: Are you saying it has no spark as the engine won't run, or have you had the plugs out (and earthed) when you are cranking the motor?

He's totally capable of that. Totally. https://www.facebook.com/FrostMotorsport?fref=ts

Low N Slow probably won't be, but I know of someone wanting storage for an Anglia van. Holla at your pakeha if you have space and I'll put you both in contact with each other

I have a friend who has a race car fabrication business, but he's hoping to be a bit busier than he is. His work is top notch, but I have no idea about pricing If you need stuff made, especially roll cages - give Steve a holla on 021 680 899 Mods, please move or delete this as you see fit. I'm not sure it complies with the rules or not so I'll leave you to judge

I did think about that, but to look right the gaps would have needed to be on each side of every redwood fillet. The fillets are only 25mm wide, so they are glued and screwed to the edge of each elm board (rather than glued and screwed down from beneath - as the elm is) Making the 25mm wide fillets 'stand alone' seemed unlikely to end well after a year or two outside (they're taller than they are wide).

I think the smartest thing to do is to leave a 2 or 3mm gap between each of the top boards to allow water to fall through and not get trapped. That had been my plan until I chose to fillet between the elm boards with redwood strips. I couldn't work out a way to have drainage gaps and still make it look good, so the new plan is to oil the top heavily with an oil based timber preservative, and repeat that every six months or so. The trick is finding an oil that has good UV properties as the oil I've been using for the last couple of years has been breaking down, turning black and is able to be scraped off with a fingernail after less than a year. I'm a bit lucky as the air at home is heavily laden with salt - which is a timber preservative. Once this table settles a bit I expect to find water pooling on it somewhere, so I'll drill some discreet holes in that location to help it drain. I haven't oiled the side edges of the boards as I've glued them on the bottom and both sides. An oil based polyurethane is the best barrier to water ingress, but it's a PITA to sand off when it starts to fail - which is why I'm going to use oil for the top

Thank you for the encouragement everyone. Here's tonight's glueing and screwing efforts. There's lots of sanding still to come as I've made a few mistakes, but it's still better than watching TV

The whole thing is glued and screwed, and the frame is all rebated. I trust mechanical fastenings more than chemicals, and dove tails wouldn't have been useful. Yup, but not until after 8pm./ I'll be screwing in screws, but if that's a PITA for you I can do it another time? Thanks for the kind words everyone. It's been a therapeutic project

All of the fasteners (except for the timber dowels) are 316 SS, and all are hidden. The big rafter screws I've used are expensive! (~$1 each) The elm came from a windfallen tree on a farm near Masteron. It's quite nice.

I took the longest bits of elm and made them a pretty shape. Now that this 'picture framing' is done I just have to finish cutting up the rest of the elm to make a top. Perhaps in May Most of the rest of it looks shit, but if you squint a bit this corner looks OK

A table needs leg, which is what the LVL was for, but I was dumb and ordered LVL so big I couldn't cut it with any of my saws properly so I chopped it up into bits and took it to a mate who has access to a big mother planer. I gave him a drawing which my dear friend Mathers helped me with, and here's a leg. I like it. After the legs was done it was time to cut up some rails and dummy assemble the table base. Ummm, yeah. It's pretty big. Ooops

I built my fist ever table for a friend last year, and quite enjoyed it, so I thought I'd build an outdoor table for home. I dunno anything about tables, but we live by the sea and I don't like rusty screws, so can't trust anything store bought not to contain inferior fasteners... off I went. I am retarded BTW, but you probably all know that already. First there was the timber. Some elm slabs and a ludicrous LVL post. I borrowed a mate's rail saw to attack the elm slabs. It was pretty choice.

They were nationwide at the time. Dunno about where their head office is

Sorry bud. Had. I sold it to the BNT rep from Dunedin quite a few years ago

It looks like he's moved, but is still in business http://www.weberspecialties.co.nz/index.html

I needed a screen for my 1955 Ford Ranchwagon and phoned Windscreen Wholesalers, who had one in stock in NZ. It's worth a phone call.

A single 40 should be good for road work, and way cheaper to tune than twins (jets, emulsion tubes, venturis etc aren't cheap) ...but not to choice for racing. The 1600 motors like air speed for torque so a single carb is quite a good thing A Redline linkage kit will get you started. I'd make contact with Murray from Weber Specialities in Parity Place, Genfield, Auckland (if he's still trading). He can probably sell you everything you need and may well trade in your old 'jets'.

My little brother fitted a 'Supra' gearbox to his P6B and it was pretty good. I'll ask him what was involved later in the week, but I do recall the exhaust being a bit of a pain to get right

Repco sell a hand held one that measures vacuum and pressure in small enough increments for your use. I think they are about $55. they have a flexible hose with a tapered brass end that you can fit into your fuel line for 'bench' testing You can borrow mine if you don't want to buy one, but you'd need to meet me in the central city sometime during business hours to collect it