QCADTA

you cant go wrong for that down home. great place to live, better than tom price any way.

yeah im down there when im not working in WA.

wiring wont be that bad once you get ya head round it, theres alot of people on here with alot of knowledge on 4ages to help ya out.

buy this, http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/ford/auction-402336701.htm, swap everything over, put your old motor in this and re sale it. cheap as, wont cost you much at all.

put a panhard rod in it would be cheapest and uprated shocks.

they clear the rack fine. i sliced and raised my gearbox tunnel as well to keep the diff pinion angle happy, this way you will get no drive line vibrations if ya cars lowered. chopped out the original gearbox mounts as well.

some one on here had a whole setup, mounts, sump, gearbox going cheap. was on trade me to.

top work mate. got a soft spot for s/c setups. will look mint on some descent wheels.

so is there power when you are cranking or when the key is on? from memorry they are feed 12v from the eccs relay just to make sure.

pretty sure they are fired off the -ve side so will always have power there. work ya way back from there i guess, have you pulled any fault codes off the ecu?

go through the guts of the south island on the way, awesome drive and not much longer. Wouldnt mind havin a look at your ra28 but ill still be in WA. Gay

put up some pics of your set up.

as said above, poked charging system (alternator) causing shagged battery. fuses popping due to low voltage causing excessive current drain? relay clicks some times and doesnt start due to your battery taking drain on jumper cables not allowing engine to get full cranking amps, this happens alot when tryin to jump start diesels with dead batteries as the compression they run = more cca.

i think youll find it is a rally design one as they are cast and not made from billet. have a read here it will help you out. http://www.turbosport.co.uk/showthread.php?60192-Coil-over-conversions

keeper is the small helper at the bottom. just make sure the shocks you get are suited to the spring rate as well. edit:beaten to it

sounds interesting. good way to trap heat in your engine bay.

get a different length spring or just use keeper springs.

yeah my mate did his courier ute and it came out good, also did his bumpers in vinyl chrome and they look god too. from memory alot of the nv8s are vinyl wrapped.

at this stage id say no. get stuck into the mechanics of it all, engine, gear box suspension etc and youll learn a shit load. some m16 calipers with descent pads and vented disks with a spacer kit and im sure youll have more enough braking. good luck with the build, get some pics up and theres alot of good bastards on here thatll point you in the right direction.

ca18s are good engines and have more than enough power for something as light as an escort, but if your low on skills or not that mechanically minded it might not be worth it, and if your not into wiring then theres another prob unless you can afford to pay an auto sparky.

its some sort of ammeter which can tell if one headlight is drawing more load than the other, and sends that to the dice module. dice = Dashboard Integrated Central Electronics. its a saab thing

s = low beam high beam switch, earth already mentioned, 30 12v feed, 86 = head lights on switch. 56a to low beam relay, 56b front lamp filament monitor and daytime driving lights? cunt of a setup. go spend 12 bucks and get a normal relay.

give it six months on cobras and it will probably sag to the bump stops anyway.

what do your plugs look like? its not gettin too much fuel with uprated pump n flooding? might have to check ya fuel pressures at idle if ya can get that gauge back. also disconnect ya battery to reset ya ecu n learn again, long shot i know.

can you borrow a clip on ammeter off someone to see if its drawing current from the battery with the key turned off?