Spencer

Yes it is some kinda acid action but the problem is they have a primer in them, it dries like some kind of jelly and does not sand well. You are just meant to paint over it and its magic jelly powers make the top coat stick. But on tests and fucking around with a bunch of those primers (including garbage weld through) they all sand horrible and the top paint flakes off eventually. It says in the CRC datasheet wait 12h and top coat with enamel. It goes straight in the bin IMO. But yes it is a incompatibility of paint and undercoat and/or not enough cure time. There is other ways but the stock answer is go get the good shit.

No offense but those are not good products to use (almost everything paint related from a parts store is junk). Any of those rust converters are terrible and have bad adhesion, everything I have tried to paint on them peels off easy as. Grind that shit off, go to bunnings get some phosphoric acid for treating the rust (brunox? I think next to the thinners, or vinegar for a slower version), then go to the paint shop and buy epoxy primer (protec is cheapest IMO, like $60 for 1L kit). You can brush on the primer, then top coat with whatever in white and it will be done forever.

Yup my thoughts also is clearance with the diff, and then probably steering box etc. It probably make the job way easier to lift the body for clearance. I have messed around with a 4wd one with a 1UZ ages ago, no body lift but custom sump of course and headers. Rip the motor out and get a LS block dummied up in there and you will immediately see what you have to do

Ring cartune and pretend to be interested customer.

So not that hard?

Yeah done a bunch of A series fwd cam belts and the mount is on the block? otherwise it would be all fucked up for single cam and FE stuff? memory is hazy though. Edit: yeah as per the link its a radiator hose thing which not all FWD used. I would put money its a late vs early bigport thing.

The MR2 early ZE had the bigger bottom end which leads to confusion? The worst engine for sure is the second gen bigport in early AE92's, I would guess that is what we are seeing above? Anyway we can all agree that the AE82 FXGT is the best config 4AGE that existed. Lightest chassis and those early big port revs all day (until you run big ends) you need a fresh one though, I have driven a bunch and some go way harderer than others. /ling

Yup good outcome that cleaning the ISCV and setting the timing works. If its in the ballpark you should be able to fuck around and get it better over time. 100% on getting some new gas and a injector cleaner in there, I think the nulon one is the only over the counter that has PEA.

Try delete the ISCV and get it to idle on the throttle stop. Then you can go from there if you want it to work for cold start, idle up etc.

I would chuck some injector cleaner through it also. One that has PEA in it that stuff actually works. Probably not the issue but if it’s been sitting with old fuel I have seen many a stuck injector from old fuel varnish /residue. what kind of idle control does it have? They can be pretty shit on these. I bought a manual 1ggze turd back in the day and as said above just had the idle wound up.

I have a smaller 100mm china one and its lasted like 5 years and a fair few goes over cars. Keen on a bigger one at that price, they are mostly clones of the fancy ones so work sweet. Just as above questionable how long they last but for the hobbyist its a no brainer. If you are a ninja at aliexpress searching can probably get brushes.

Sweet cheers. They are $89 dollarydoos here so will go grab one.

Shit I'd stick with scotch brite and prepsol.

Just trying to say for the millionth time that just because its 2 part doesn't make it extra deadly its urethane that is deadly in both single part (ie por15) and two part. No one freaks out about 2 part bog, or two part epoxy glues (kneed it etc) they get it everywhere.

Pretty sure the cheapest epoxy primer will be PPG/Protec 408 Epotec, its about $60 in oz for a 1L "kit" that has paint, hardener and thinner. Get some mixing pots while you are at the paint shop so its easy to mix it up in one container then bin after. Also its no more deadly than rattle cans, its urethane that has the isocyanates not epoxy.

If you want to keep the car go buy 1L of epoxy its the correct tool for the job. Using 2 part filler over single stage primer is a mistake IMO, I have seen it eventually peel off plenty of times as the curing bog fucks up the shitty primers adhesion. If you must use rattle cans then bog on the steel (it will be what the bog data sheet says to do) then primer it, it will stick better this way. You can then do it again in 5 years

Yeah go buy 1L and brush it on.

How good is a box of rockauto parts that takes like 8 months to get around to installing.

Those headers are going to be sweet. Whats the exhaust plan? you should do it for sure.

you need that 3" zaust to match.

Those engine dampeners work a treat, transfer a bunch of vibration but just whip it off when you go down the shops to get cakes.

Off topic and @sheepers probably knows this but yeah looks like they are $1100->$1200 new from old toymods post (would have to verify this yourself) then on amayama 3.7 ratio is ~$1100. Part number crosses over with hilux which is what people always say but never seen anyone find one IRL and swap it. https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4120129298 3.5 ratio slightly cheaper https://www.amayama.com/en/part/toyota/4120139467

Yeah but the bolt patterns from memory are different like 10 bolts vs 6 bolts. Also FWD nuggets are wayyyyy shorter than RWD LSD's. Going on the TRD part numbers about 100 other C-series cars/models crosses over with the vitz part number so pretty good bet a C-series LSD works

Most race class rules are one injector per cyl, they get the best power from outboards so that's there they go. As above there is lots to be done in the execution and the injectors spray pattern, pressure etc. I think some high end race classes were going super high pressure, to the point where classes have fuel pressure limits. I am not doing it myself so can't add much but it definitely makes good gains for NA if you invest the effort/moneys. I read that most of the gains are from the charge cooling rather than mixing, so maybe you need a hot manifold also? not sure. But I mean we have Glen who pops up on here who gained 9kw on his setup.

They are way different.