Spencer

Just see what brand they are. The only ones you want are allied wheel and U.S. Wheel (I think there's another brand thats OK but I'm lazy to check), they have the proper gusset thing. Still not a perfect design and you have to keep a eye on them but stick to those.

That stroker kit looks lush, lock yourself away doing spreadsheets until you own one. You have to go back to a Q-jet when you do

Yea I know just fun to talk about, I think we have it sorted! billet it is. You should start keeping an eye out for a crown center sump setup for a JZ if you aren't already, they make the install much nicer.

Yea that but not looking all shitty, I know we have had this yarn but can you make another rocker cover work with a adapter? or do you mod the turbo covers and go down that route?

Use some side drafts as throttles and hide injectors underneath, I'm sure we have talked about this at some stage.

Do some hidden EFI on the 2J also please.

Yea just do something similar to the guy with the crown on here, make it look old/awesome.

They have made some shit gear, not as much as Mitsi though so its OK.

Never had a M let me down, it's operator fault.

I find this hilarious.

Yes sorry always use a scotchbrite and some lube first to clean up shit.

Dismantle and expect, if they have a big lip they probably need sleeving, a little rust/black shit then hone it, if it looks lush then seals and do nothing.

Depends on the condition of the bores.

Supra deposit.

That one is pretty legit.

Ned you should make a micro for carb guys that does data logging. There is a hole in the market I think, the options around have fuck all inputs and when they do they cost more than a high end engine management. I want to log like 10 analog/digital inputs (wideband, tps, rpm, map, etc) so I can track jetting and timing changes. This kinda thing could also double as a engine warning light when installed permanently so I can ditch the ugly gauges, takes oil pressure/water temp/trains temp and spits a light when they fall out of range. There's nothing like that on the market either (again that doesn't cost 1x moon beam)

Cheers man! lots of work and learning went in, should have got more pics. Had to pad out the update or it gets super confusing.

Take photos and start a thread.

Roman I think it depends what you have now? Paint and dye can restore old parts (black especially) you can repair ripped door cards etc and paint them. New carpet and mats. Epoxy any cracked plastic, you can fix grain pattern at the repair the paint. Etc etc. I'm buying a (cheap, used) industrial sewing machine to make bits for my car.

Its not a scummy Nissan tractor engine mayte, its a high quality Toyota forklift motor.

If its the front main it will be doable in place, just a normal metric shaft seal of some kind. Leak could be form the timing cover also, could do both that gasket and then the front main will be easy to do with the cover off the car. Pretty much a easy weekend job if you have the gear to undo/do up the crank pulley bolt and a decent puller to get it off.

If you have googled that and come up short then it's likely not a common conversion therefore chances of someone on oldschool pulling out the answer in one morning is exactly as you encountered, zero. You will most likely need to scope both of these units in operation and compare if the inputs/outputs are the same (or close enough). Igniters aren't super smart, but as you know they can have varying degrees of complexity that could foil your plan. If you actually want to do it start learning some shit and start a thread maybe.

Oh and if you get the power steer box the columns are different length but you can make the non power steer one work.

No, you need like 40-100amp depending on what the alt is. You can use a modern fuse holder thing instead of a fuseable link which are easy to check/change. Fuseable links are sweet and easy to use also though. It's just a bit of thin gauge wire that is made to burn out at a certain current, but it from the internet or maybe a local shop and solder or crimp in. The alt wire should be a decent gauge you will need a pretty decent crimper to do the terminals.

Cool, happy to help out if you find anything Brisbane ways.