Spencer

Just keep looking for the factory power steer? I had two sets when I was into crowns, may have to buy a whole wreck. Check yahoo also.

Yea it was lots of work! Had a great time though, camels lush welder turned up to 11 all week.

Yea all those bullshit methods won't work. Pull the dent, bog and paint.

Its going to need to be pulled with some weld in studs, bogged and painted. Paintless dent removal really isn't for shit like that, that steel is stretched pretty bad.

Just caught up on your thread dude, Great work. Love the wheel choice and sweet exhaust, keep it up.

Pretty much just whip it apart and check the contacts and brushes, if its not those get a new one.

Delete any rich spots if the carb can.

Yea I messed around with it, the coding is ok but the time investment is insane. Started a few microcontroller projects and bailed because it takes me ages. Just buy a made one.

Yea the only advantage to switches is they are cheap.

Haha man that's just how it is, when I'm 40 I'll think the shit I'm posting now is retarded.

Yes it will sit in the pot for several hours before setting, mix some up once your patches are cut and brush on, go have a beer and come back the next day and weld in. Nothing in a can comes close to the adhesion and durability of epoxy and it takes the welding heat like a champ. I sometimes throw the brushes away but gun wash (cheap generic solvents) are cheap as fuck, just keep recycling the old thinners and use it for the initial brush clean then a quick wash in clean thinners and the brush is clean for about 10c worth of product. If you are doing paint and panel work you should have a 20L of gunwash and wax and grease at your house also, it should be dirt cheap from a proper supplier. You are doing yourself/your car a disservice using can paint near any rust work IMO. EDIT: I also buy stacks of the mixing pots from the paint supply shop, sometimes I clean them up but usually throw away. A 4L can of epoxy (makes like 6L), some brushes and mixing pots will be cheaper in the long run by a massive margin, those $20 cans are a rip off. I used to use Wurth & the kiwi (blue can) branded one, they seem to just be some lacquer primer/paint with stacks of zinc or something, it still burns and the data sheets says you have to seal with epoxy anyway?

Honest all you guys doing panel work should have 2 part epoxy primer in your shed. Put it on every metal surface, inside and out, this is the only way.

Use 2 part epoxy primer on the back of a patch and in between seams, you can brush it on. Use a flattened out drill to remove paint where you want to spot weld. If you let it cure overnight it handles the heat of welding better than any can stuff.

Epoxy primer will go over almost anything without reaction.

It doesn't have the hardness and durability of urethane 2k (or moisture cured). Nothing really competes with 2 pac urethane paint for gloss combined with durability, flexibility and chemical resistance. Compared to enamel and laquer it will last pretty much forever if you prep it right and clean it.

I would go for proper prep and epoxy primer topped with 2K urethane. If you are going to just water-blast and paint try using some kind of underseal type product, I don't have much experience but they usually have good adhesion. Basically the quality of the end result will be directly proportional to how much prep you do.

If money is a problem there are cheap China spec ones for fords that are OK, just start researching. Google and read forums.

Yea the dollar has tanked and customs in NZ sucks.

Stock dizzy 99% of the time is flogged out though, brass bushes or/and bearings are 40 years old etc. Honest just buy that Mallory or the equivalent entry level MSD, they have adjustable vacuum advance for decent economy, spring kits to change how quick the advance comes in and adjustable stoppers to change max advance. Don't need a ugly extra box and you can have a tune about as good as you will get with a mechanical device.

I have something like this on my car and its great. http://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/maa-3755101/overview/make/ford

Should be able to get a Malory or MSD entry level dizzy for like $300? Do that.

Sell sell sell.

The $20 Supercheap polish wheels that you chuck on a cheap drill work legit. I have that and a harder wheel for cutting/ruining stuff.

I can see it being a thing if you had to pass emissions tests? Otherwise seems silly. This will be a good deposit on a Supra.

It's a Holden Q-jet also? They are the good cores to have usually.