Spencer

I'm with rookie, all of this doesn't seem that good. I would have started with a 30w on a new engine with a new oil pump and what you would hope is tight bottom end clearances. That 20psi idle pressure seems low for a new engine with 50w? is that within spec for this thing? You will find that with this engine you probably don't need the full 1400+ppm or whatever the penrite oil offers, there are plenty of other oils with high zinc that isn't slapped all over the box to get sales, you just have to sit down and look at the data sheets for oils in the weight you want that are easy to get locally (and do some google action)

Report back plz, you can easily trace the back of those clusters as the PCB is all visible. You can then check if you have a weird 12V on the wrong leg or a solid earth. Pays to pull the temp sender plug so you can check the continuity of that wire, fuel one is not so easy to disconnect, well might be on a ute.

Remove the alarm and burn it. Then look for any other shitty wiring and remove. Those stock gauges earth to the sender which has a variable resistance so I guess you have a earth somewhere. But then if both gauges are doing it you may have some strange 12v feeding in the wrong spot etc. Best to pull the cluster and start testing once you have cleaned up any dodgy wiring. It's easy to trace and test the gauge circuits from the plug in the back.

I had a EFI ma45, the injection is super basic and doesn't really cross over well to later Toyota EFI at all. That "checker" won't get you anywhere at all in afraid. You will be running the gauntlet alone to figure this thing out. I scoped all mine and got it going, pretty sure it has analog control of some sort going on. I then scrapped it for the T series diff and w50, rust bucket it was.

The paint is full of solids so no it shouldn't be transparent. As above.

Well in that case then you want to lay down 2 coats of epoxy, then bang your single stage 2k top coat white on and forget. Less paint = faster.

There is no problem with that. Runs arent the problem with wet-wet coating, that is a problem of too much paint or badly mixed paint. Wet on wet main problems are not flashing the product for long enough, then you get shitty reactions. It 100% will be wavy as fuck and look gross if you don't block sand it flat somewhere along the way.

You probably need a touch up style gin for that kind of work, if you want a nice finish you need to try get even coats in. I will wind the paint out of my 1.3/1.4 good gun and just dust coat around the tricky parts best you can, then even coat the whole thing, I assume you are using base-coat which levels out pretty well due to the high solvent content.

Oh well wet on wet is when you paint a primer (epoxy on bare metal, 2K urethane primer for fill & block work) you then let the thinners flash out of the primer (plus some extra wait time) then paint the urthane 2K top coat (or baseocat) straight over the primer with no intermediate sanding stage. This is a fairly common paint system, epoxy primers have a recoat window sometimes of 24h so you can clean and paint over them in that 24h window with no sanding. On the outside of a car you want to get it straight as possible so the above method is only good for engine bays, door shuts, suspension parts etc. The outside should be done with epoxy first (over bare metal or old paint job) then rough block work on this, then bog work, seal bog work in epoxy, then 2K urthane high build primer, block sand the car smooth with guide coat (i use dry), then more 2K urthane primer in a thin coat, then final prep (400/600 wet or dry depending) then base coat/clear coat or single stage 2K on top.

You have to explain what process you are talking about? take all pages before the current one as rough guides only, usually the yarns are specific to something.

I think the cheapest (decent) paint products in AK will be from Protec, whoever sheepers uses I guess.

Yea 16's look dope so far, need a full car shot.

Sorry I was posting on my phone and didn't see this. Acetone is just one of the many solvents you can use, in consumer quantaties it is fairly expensive to use for general cleaning, although it will help remove tar etc. Sorry if you don' t want to scratch the chrome then how will the paint stick? I just assumed you were dealing with fucked chrome hence the paint.

This is a good point acids and alkali cleaning products should be used carefully on alloy.

Good times. The painted bumpers look much better than I anticipated man. You going to re-paint the black/purple car now this one is painted? lol

Yes agree, move your way up the grade of chemicals. Get the dirt off with mild degreaser and elbows. Then move on to solvents. I haven't met a wheel that has been on a car for a few years (without a OCD cleaning regime) that will clean up properly with just degreaser.

Oven cleaner (like paint stripper but much more mild) is generaly a alkaline cleaner with some foaming shit, so some brands will burn. It still is mostly useless for the purpose of cleaning wheels IMO. Well it will work but it's expensive and not that good. Basically if it doesn't move with soap then try a alkali (branded as water based) degreaser, after that move to oil based solvents. For wheels I would jump straight to scotch brite and gun wash or a general thinner. You won't get a much better solvent unless you go out of your way to buy MEK or some other deadly shit.

Even better use scotch brite and solvent (like thinners) it will melt tar/everything and prep the surface.

It's a caustic solution of some kind. A strong solvent will work at least 1000 times better.

Well why the fuck do you need 4 lows is my question? You need to see the 20 feet in front of you really good? The H4 reference was just saying that its the only thing you need to do to a old quad lamp car, that and some relays and good high beams, not implying you haven't done that. You fatty.

Use a strong solvent, gun wash melts everything usually.

Race car!

Why do you need double low beams? buy some good looking glass housings and use H4's. Find a wall with some flat ground infront, measure things up and align them correctly and have great headlights forever.

You have basically all the answers above haha. Report back.

Sweet, just get a 1.4 and that's a quality cheap setup. Get some spare panels and learn how to dial it in now.