Spencer

They have to label it on the pump? It was big for awhile and has become less wide spread it seems.

No offence but if you have to ask on the forum and have a short deadline chances are you are not prepared to do this. Wait until you can make a few mistakes and not miss the event completely. You can download the factory manuals for a few 80's Toyotas that have the procedure for setting up these diffs. Get that and read it, if you can follow that procedure and think you can do it, go ahead.

Agree with Roman. You will most likely need a couple shims to centre it as the old F series IRS housings don't have adjustment like some other Toyota diffs. Wait until you have a few weeks the car can be off the road, it's best to take your time.

If you already have a F series diff in this car then you just swap the LSD centre over the alteazza gears are useless too you. Only thing special you need is the ability to set the diff up again in the right position when you put it back together

Yea man you nailed it, things like the CRC "rust converter" are a tannic acid (only a very small %), they are mostly water by volume and some organic solvent. from my tests they don't hold up well to the elements and I'm not a fan of the adhesion (if it goes on too thick you can sometimes get it off with a fingernail). Best bet is mechanically removing it or phosphoric acid, you don't want the stronger acid in seams and cavities though. Its much for muchness inside cavities you just need good long term hold out, from my shitty tests (coating squares of panel steel and chucking it outside for ages) some very good wax seems best. Not all wax is equal though so do some testing.

A real good cavity wax, one that will stay put. I tested a few on bare steel and left it outside. This one was my choice http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/5-LT-Mil-Spec-3215-rust-proofing-wax-for-cavity-and-surface-protection-/111831303774?_trksid=p2141725.m3641.l6368 There will be others that are as good or better. You can epoxy prime the back of patches you put in and use it between spot welded seams you replace (clean it out from the spot weld hole before welding with a flat drill) it holds up to the heat better than any common single part, rattle can, weld through primer I have used.

And I wasn't hating on POR15 earlier, I do like it for some jobs. Just if you can prep the steel then 2 part epoxy primer gives the basically the protection, costs like 1/4 the price and has WAY better adhesion to clean steel IMO. You can brush on epoxy to your repairs also no problem, looks pretty rank on big areas but still works with a brush.

Yea those rust primer things can fuck off. I've tested a few by leaving them outside on steel and they go all soft and shitty, do not want. Remove rust and proper coatings is the only way unless you cant reach it, then there are many products for that purpose that are better than those rust primers.

I'm talking surface rust above, if its heavy scale then smash it mechanically first of course. Some products do turn it black (some have zinc), I use just straight phosphoric acid, the rust stays brown and kind of lifts from the surface when you wash it, then if there is more rust you apply acid again, on my chassis I did maybe 3-4 applications. Same goes for citric acid but that is more for soaking parts as it takes ages, good shit though. You want clean white metal in all cases with the only exception is hard to reach places and cavities, then slap whatever you feel really. POR15, wax, just keep oxygen/water/crap out. The acid can be expensive retail so shop around for bulk instead of shitty stuff that has been branded and marked up 400%

I wouldn't use POR15 anywhere where you can prep the steel and use a epoxy primer. Its expensive and not needed, great for painting the back of rust patches etc. It is just a heavy duty urethane paint the moisture cures, its not magic. It still needs prep. Personally I am fucking over stripping shit with wire wheels, it sucks. So I would use paint stripper and the phosphoric acid to treat the rust, just keep them away from body seams. Use the mechanical stripping anywhere where the liquids could get in and cause more trouble than good. When using the stripper and acid just apply some nuance, take it slow and relax. it may take a few passes but will leave clean white steel (well maybe a little pickled) and dont be scared of using water to clean up, its OK on bare steel if you just scuff the surface with steel wool after.

Yea this is just causation, the manifold was probably not strong enough for what was hanging off it, lots of shittly made exhausts just flap around off the headers instead of their mounts. Some shitty wrap material and if cars that sit around may trap moisture? I would take a pepsi challenge that some well made mild steel headers (enough strength/designed for application), prepped and painted with good shit and wrapped with something that wont hold water will last ages.

It's not turbo but it's super inefficient so the exhaust is hot, it looks brand new. I did sand blast and paint straight away (you want to spray it) so perfect prep. I didn't wrap mine and I wish I did, so much hot in that engine bay.

see it as really expensive rust protection. I used some expensive paint ($50 for a tiny pot, cheap by comparison, POR15 I think) on my headers and they look perfect after 5 years, do that and then wrap, gotta prep shit real good like.

Nice work man, actually measuring things always wins.

Buy it. Grab the $20 knock sensor also.

You can get the 4.9 for around $90 US from my looking, maybe $70 for the other. The wideband Bosch knock sensors are also cheap on rock auto at ~$20 US. I really want EFI on the buick, but I want millions of inputs & outputs which means spendy ECU and I don't want to stump up the cash just yet. Just got a new data logging setup and knock sensor so once that shows up I'll get into the process of carb tuning with some IRL feedback instead of just looking at the WB gauge.

Same as my XR200 with a slide carb, you can tune around it but will use more/less gas at almost all part throttle openings and due to this it will make less power/less efficient at part throttle. Depends on the car how drivable it will be, 86 foamers ran them a few times I have seen on the internets (those keihin 4 slide combo things) with no real problems. Its like putting a average tune at part throttle, on a 4K this wont matter fuck all it may use more gas. On something with big cams and shitty low speed behavior it will make it way worse possibly. Something like a Qjet aims to have the best of both worlds, big open chamber mains and variable vacuum driven needles on the small primaries, works great but ads complexity.

What's the actual question? Flat slides are awesome at WOT so good for some bikes etc, can be less complex. CV just adds some vacuum feedback which you can tune for efficiency at part throttle. Then EFI with any throttle combo that moves enough air can be tuned good for everywhere. Choose your cost/complexity/dort option that suits.

You have to use your current gears. Bang it in, adjust and roll.

Now fly to Ethiopia and source some single origin beans lol. I see lots of learnings in this venture, good work/luck.

All that will have to come out, then level out and paint. The painter will tell you if he can match a panel or it needs a whole respray.

Na once you get wheels spin they suck, it's the nature of the design. For general traction out of corners and such they are excellent, you need some clutches for skid work.

You are so jaded Yowzer.

Probably microsquirt is the sweet spot for cheap/easy

IMO air shocks are shit, usually have shit valving that doesn't work well (bouncy) and they put weight through the shock mounts which they aren't designed for. For your question they just have lines that run to a valve, just pump them up and see what happens. They should always have some air in them to stop the bag sagging and wearing itself out, usually like 10-15psi. Just play with them and figure it out, they may not even hold air any-more, max pressure is usually in the 40-50PSI range (google the brand for instructions). You really just need some harder springs and a decent shock combo, if you need something for variable load then the bags that go inside springs work much better.