Spencer

make your flanges thicker than 5mm, 8mm minimum

^ your cars not OS boe get over it, those turbo manifolds aren't really any use for quads are they. Make it from alloy, so much easier to port match it afterwards and stainless is way to heavy. Chopping the original manifold is going to be an abortion make up a flange for the head and 4 flanges for the throttles and get some cunt to weld some pipe in between at the length/angle you want. Then drill holes and weld on injector bosses also weld up some mounting points to bolt the fuel rail down get a after market computer and tune

relay board kits for noobs not needed, and the stim is sweet for testing but Ive just used a loom with sensors plugged in to test but stim makes life easy

had a quick look on the MS forum pugs run a Bosch VR sensor the v3 board has a VR sensor conditioning circuit built in so shouldn't be much dramas to set up a wasted spark system. As long as it provides a clean signal for triggering would be nice to scope it and check it out

yea use the VM921 high current drivers to run them, what pick up does the pug have factory?

buy the v3.0 board and run the extra code then need to decide a pick up for spark. Need to have a otp convo about this

Yea seen factory 16v toyota ecu try to fuel quads leans out then way to rich due to way different vacuum. So get squirting I get all my gear from here http://www.glensgarage.com/catalog/megasquirt-kits-c-1.html What kind of pick up does the pug run for spark timing? cam/crank sensor? hal effect or optical etc?? need to figure out what your best spark options are fuel is easy spark can get fiddly

anything thats 4 valve per cylinder with nice ports, and not to much of a headache to fit is the go. I mean 2v is cool if your in a racing class or want to keep period mods but if you just want more go modern engines are the way bang for buck

sweet its not going anywhere but if you can get it down to you its yours for $50

still running f series diff i guess? i have a complete g series subframe and diff head if your keen makes the rear pretty much bullet proof also has bigger brakes to my old gx dont know about yours

even a cheap pub will cost a small fortune to get pissed from scratch and then the hams boes have to find somewhere to stay. No one has a venue?

if you have paint left could easily get it hammered/bogged then blended in your paints so fresh it would blend easy enough. Anyway thats spam anyone going up from hams? seems a waste without a otp

could be late 88 to 92

some cunt kicked it on friday night, dent isnt to bad would have got out and caused a scene/ got beaten up if I was there

oldrx7's giant avatar make me want to smash my computer screen, should resize that shit

Got a txt from mr dori for flat warming party but he didn't put a date in the txt

there 20v ones boe,

yea I know the ct26 on a supras different still only a 300hp turbo stock, with the 60-1 wheel upgrade and a exhaust clip yea it would become a 400hp turbo. you cant do the same upgrades on the 3s ct26 guess i should've been more specific. I was just being a smart ass with the 7m comments alot of guys on the cressida forum have sorted theres and still have had head gaskets go a 2nd or 3rd time and rod knock issues. Each to there own but I wouldn't bother when such thing as jz's exist

I don't know why you ask about lowering your car on here when I've done this shit before and explained it to you. Theres two irs mark 2's at kihi kihi and one in paeroa so theres no worries about springs for cutting. My car rides mint on cutties only gay thing is going 4 up the rears to soft. Best way to combat this would be custom springs where we choose the spring rate then chop them if there to long (its hard for them to get the exact height you want). Which is going to end up cheaper and 1 million times better than compressed kings

ct26 not that big good for maybe 300hp if your lucky guys in the us have success changing wheels around. Welcome to the world of bhg and rod knock

man my car looked good in the standard colour

I dont know what size your ceddy runs so no idea of strength and lsd availability but shortening a diff can be expensive so you may as well go to something easy to get lsd's for just a thought though standard diff may be fine

Im no expert on your beast but youd change to something with a readily available lsd if going for a short diff. Hilux or 9", you can get real short 9" housings guess it depends if you're ever going to upgrade the motor

yes seen them and sussed glenn out straight away would've got them myself if I didnt buy the sportmax's

I'd say his cheque book would have to be at least this big