Goat

*Two stroke Boe *Tripple carb, tripple cyl *filthy reed valves (hideous flow restrictions) * Im pretty sure the carbs have a balance line between them.

Cheers for your help. Will try alternator/coil tomorrow/today. Hopefully that will fix it. Or else im back to square 1.

tried another dizzy cap. And another rotor. Does the same thing. No vacuume lines boe. Only vacuume line is to power the fuel pump (chainsaw stz). Ill change the alternator and coil over tomorrow to see if that changes anything. But still doesnt explain how it runs above 2000rpm fine

The fronte is doing something really weird. It only idles on 2 cyls. At first i though it must be an idle jet on one of the carbs as it runs on all 3cyls above 2000rpm. But the fucked up thing is that it will idle on ANY 2 cyls. If i take the lead of one cyl it wont change the Idle at all. If i take a seccond lead off, it stalls (fair enough, only running on 1/3 of cyls). If i take a lead of a different cyl it will still idle. So as long as there are 2 leads on it will idle and haveing a 3rd lead on doesnt change a thing. Any 2 cyls with leads on it will allow it to idle. CRAZY!! . So it cant be a carb thing (as all cyls will idle fine, but only 2 at a time). And i replaced the rotor and dizzy and its still the same. Does any have any ideas cos i'm baffled.

True, just went thru the threads looking for caboons lancer. Should have read title properly. Cos it certainly wasn't an EX i saw, twas the green LA. Oh well, its the thought that counts And it still looks tuff

Chur boes. Will try some of that anti-squeal compound

Pretty sure i saw this stallion last night in town. Looks tuff as

What causes squeaking discs? Inspected and has HEAPS of meat left on the pad, and no visible stuff caught in it. But squeaks under braking. What should i do? Brake clean?

Thought about it, But the cylinders are 119cc each. And expansion chambers are pretty precise things. Thinking about building my own. There are many programs out there to give dimensions from inputing a few variables. A bit of sheet metal and a couple of weeks and should be able to make a decent set.

Mean. So tidy too

-fixed dead pic links

Its 99.9% rust free. The only rust is where the water bottle for the windscreen fill bottle leaked over the last 33 years. Just surface. Roofs dented. And paint on roof bonnet and boot is faded hard (my selective photography makes it look good). The main reason i got it was that it is 100% complete and SO rust free. With mint parts that are usually shot, like bumpers, bonnets,guards and lights etc Will make for a quick and easy repaint. Although that will come after i finished my first project. Mirrors are tuff aye. Light weight stz It was a 1st gear climb up that hill to get photos! Loves wellington Goes fine on the flat tho. WAY more power than my 4 door single carb fronte! Cant wait for nats. Gonna be so cool to meet all you guys!

Like the mags. And that JAF badge is tuff

Didnt think i would get my other fronte finished in time. And i either had the option to paint my project on (professionally) or buy this gem on trademe. Paints availabe all the time. Fronte's are not. Also, i collect frontes so i would have got this anyway. So, photoshoot: So small: All wofed and reged, ready for the nats

Awesome car. I Love the orange grill. Its tuff as. Nice color too!!

This happened to me on an intake manifold. Had to dremmel out the bolt around the broken off remover bit. Then had to helicoil it. An absouloute pain of a job. But it happens. eke_zetec_RWD's idea with the mig FTW!!. Just dont weld the bolt to the block

Tuff as. Lucky you found that manta!! And yea, that gearbox is micro

Mean porting man. And awesome car too

Good to see another "restoration". Its always good to see cars starting off rough and being turned back into minters. Some mean pans for it. Be cool to see how you get on!

Pillarless cars float my boat

Dredged this thread out from the 4th page. I really want to get to the oldschool nats and am worried that if i get get my car painted i will run out of time. The question im asking is: If i leave the car primed and guidecoated, will it be able to be out in the weather without undoing all my prep work or should i spray over the primer with matt black or something to "seal" it? Is primer porus? will it let water through or will it be ok? I do plan to put a color on it, but with only a month left i dont think i could get it done in time as i dont have the 133t skillz to do a metallic top coat and would have to take it to a panel beaters. Chur.

Thats some major pamel work going on. Is your friend a professional panelman? or just gifted

Rising sun bonnet FTW!!!

Those whitewalls look tuff. Thats one pimping vehicle

Havnt updated in a while. Uni and stuff been really annoying. Went hard in the seccond week of uni holls and started the bogging. Spent a week of 12hour days and 4.5kgs of bog to get it semi strait. the roof and the bonnet were major!! Over the summer holls cut out all the rust and welded in new metal. It may need lots of bog but atleast its all metal. Some rust cut out: Metal welded in etc: Awesome rust repair around back window: l33t sill repair. Went a bit wonky. but hey, real metal beats major holes: Got bored and did a mock up with my other "rusty" coupe. Looks tuff as i reccon. Mini flares and widened 10" ftw. Was going to do it to my car but want to get it going first before i spent time/money sacking it out: Getting it smooth around the back windows: 2kgs of bog right thur: Fortunatly alot of it was sanded off. So many applications/sands. Grr Me, hard at work priming it. Mean headaches!!: Finally end of it today: all primed up. Now just final sand and guide coat + more primer and it will be mean. Tryin like mad to get it ready for the oldschool nats: that is all..