Goat

yes, generally it is the wifi password. Sometimes printers require 2.4ghz wifi and won't work with 5ghz even though they can see the 5ghz network. So if your router has 2 wifis pick the 2.5Ghz one for the printer.

Any 2T oil will do. Maybe not marine.. hah. Bleed the lines, you should be able to find the oil pump, its often behind the sprocket cover on my small suzukis anyway. I usually just fire it up on some premix, and let it idle, but pull the pump throttle on max, you should be able to see oil moving through the lines with a torch. Mind you, Ive never come across an old 2stroke where the lines are empty. So probably fine to just fill up the oil tank, pop a bit of premix in the fuel tank, fire it up, and hold the oil pump WOT for a couple of mins.

Love your work

Haha, looks like an oily fingerprint in some epoxy putty. lol. Hopefully the ball valve will fix the wet sumping!. Which would lead to the primary filling problem if the transfer valve isnt working properly. Smoking barrel?? fingers crossed. Weird you've already got a breather. Wonder if that is messing with the transfer valve operation/probably not.

I was gonna say that early Ironheads (76 and earlier) had a transfer valve between primary and crank. This often fails and needs to be blocked. But I can see its got some Kneed-it mashed in there in the last pic. Most people seem to block this off as it often fails then fills the primary with oil if your oil pump check valve is weak. So when the bike sits, the oil drains into the crank, then through his hole and into the primary. And when the bike is running, it just blows oil through into the primary. The early ironheads actually had a timed oil pump !!?! It had a rotating shaft in the bottom of the crank case that had a slot that aligned/opend to the crank when the pistons were coming down (positive crank case pressure) so the crank pressure would push the oil out. This oil transfer valve would work the other way. Negative crank case pressure would suck from the primary through this valve. Maybe have a go at re-plugging it, or take that putty out and actually put a screw in it to make sure its proper sealed. Or replace it. With the transfer valve plugged, you'll need to vent the trans/primary though one of the top bolt holes for engine mount. Later Ironheads had special breather bolt (a hollow bolt with a nipple on top that vented to the oil cap). Edit: Vent bolt part number: 34744-77 Transfer valve info: http://sportsterpedia.com/doku.php/techtalk:ih:oil01

Shitcheah, Subscribed

Ive had good luck using brake clean to soften and remove that horrible baked on dirt on rubber stuff. Its misery, but worth it. Sure you don't want to give your rear struts the spray treatment? @bmxnz11 had some really good looking paint on his suspension stuff, done in his garage. Looked mint. Maybe hit him up or atleast check out his escort build thread (the orange one not the blue one). Seems a bit of a shame since you've gone the whole nine yards on everything else to not go that little bit further. (Not that I'm in any position to make such claims haha)

Always enjoy your updates! Everything looks so good going together with re-plated fasteners and powdercoated gubbins.

After a bitter-sweet journey, its time to say farewell to the old girl:

I am so happy to see this panning out the way is has. Can't wait for your next update!

Awshitcheah!

I love electrical misery. Giz a holla and i'll help you wire it up dogg!

If it stalls off the line, it could be the accelerator pump? I think some of the yank carbs have a piston as opposed to a diaphragm? maybe this is chooched. So it just falls over when opening the throttle?

First step was to see what I'd bought and start cleaning it up. It was responding well to some 400 grit and some autosol. Before: After a test patch: It certainly had potential.... Next issue was the frame. It had some goobied up weld on the headstock. So i ground this back and re-welded it. Looked much better: I then proceeded to strip the frame by hand: I got this far then rage quit as it was absolout misery. Dropped it at blasters to be blasted and powdercoated. While that was happening i put the motor on the bench to give a propper cleanup with new gaskets etc. It had wet-sumped and proceeded to go wees on my bench overnight: Was really fun to clean it up and add new seals: Got the frame back from powdercoaters and put the engine in. Looks like brand new! Started to reassemble it whilst trying to not make it look super gross. Got some short rear shocks from a dyna, and some cuttiez in the front g. Also popped some new shinkos onto the cleaned up rims: Love how narrow it is. Ali express rear guard. This is where it currently stands. As soon as my ironhead is off the table i'll get full force back into this. On the home stretch now. Have a whole heap of new bits to go on it. Plan is just to have something cool and reliable as a backup bike or one mates can ride when they're in town. Will hopefully come back with updates in next few weeks. Motivation is high at the moment.

So yeah, pretty into these turds. Saw this come up super cheap on trademe. Reg on hold. Bought it site unseen and had it shipped down to me. Oohwee, what a turd she was: Its an 1988 883 evo sportster. The successor to the Ironhead. It was cheap, and I really like cleaning stuff up. So something to keep me busy between rage quits with the Goldwing, Laverda and my Ironhead.

A bit of tuesday night bike night motivation. Got the dudes in there helping, hoping the freedom will catch and i'll have someone to do a chopper build with! Took top end off. So simple to work on. There is some very uneven mating surfaces at the base of the barrels... between 0.5 and 1mm out of flat. No wonder it was leaking. I think there was so much oil cos it was wet sumping, but still, would be weeping forever. Applied excessive gasket goo to hope it seals. Its nice grey stuff, not red. So can hardly notice it. Will cut back the eccess (no pics with pots back on) will put heads on later this week. Hopefully get it running again in the weekend.

Oh yeah, This went for its first WOF since October 1996. Just over 26 years ago! Clean sheet VTNZ Wof. Its all legal beagle. Rode it right home and put it in the shed. Has been raining every opportunity since (except last Sunday). Will get some pics of it in its current, legal state next time its sunny here. It actually looks really good out in the sun. Had a few VTNZ patrons, plus the wof inspector complement me on how nice it was. Sounds wild, and pulls really well. Super comfy. Just need to fix the fuel gauge as it reads negative !? The more fuel the lower it reads? wut. Gotta sell it though to fund new turds, if anyone needs "the black bull" in their life, lemme know.

Not all doom and gloom on the freedom front though, Been fixing up this 83 for my Dad. Imported from the states many years ago. Gave it an all round freshen up and got it complied on Saturday. Runs mint, has a soft clutch, and doesn't leak oil! Shout out to Richard and Hayhole for the sweet stickers on the tank! You guys are the best:

While this was this far apart, i thought i'd replace the base gaskets too. Removed the barrels, and tooke pistons out for blasting too. The heads looked disgusting. Ther earlier XLH900s were meant to have silver painted heads. I dont like them. So sandblast and a matty black was in order. Starting to reassemble with new gaskets: After blasting the heads, and what a shit of a job that was. I didn't want to do the barrels. So a quick hone and wacked them back on. Bike started like a champ after being sitting for 8 months. However, it was leaking oil from the base gaskets at orders of magnitude more than before. Fuck it. Back to square 1. Could see it pumping out like an artery! This is after a brakecleen and a wipedown! Was pooling before my eyes. The fact this had wet-sumped while sitting probably doesn't help. But I suspect I need to apply a lot more generous amounts of sealer to the base gaskets! It could also be because the oil pump is incorrectly timed.... (I know, wat?) But they use crank pressure to scavenge oil, and there is a rotary valve, so if that's not open when the crank is under pressure then it cant push the oil out. This would have been like this before my tenure. Could explain why it was also leaking before. Ah well, at least its easy to strip down. Also, replaced the clutch with new everything. Still need Arnie amounts of strength to pull the lever. Only thing I haven't replaced is the cable. So will try that (though it seems to move freely...)

As fun as it is to rage quit in the heat of the moment, as Flash says, let yourself cool down. If you are still over it in a week or two, then maybe it is time to pass it on. But you've come so far bringing this back from the cusp of falling into a state of dire repair. And asides from the engine, its pretty getting pretty sorted thanks to your meticulous touch. Rebuilding the original donk would be fun wouldn't it? Getting it all tidied up and refreshed would be rewarding (for both you and the viewers like myself) Then you'll have a matching numbers SD1 with a freshly rebuilt motor. Will hopefully be good for a while after that (asides from any of your routine maintenance or fixes that we know and love). So yeah, do consider my offer of storage either while you rebuild the original engine. (Offering for purely selfish reasons, I just want to see more of your comprehensive update posts :))

Bummer man, things were going so well. I am saddened (though I fully understand the rage quitting. I do love a good rage quit myself). Gonna miss the top notch content of your builds. I know you've got the Marina still, but the more build threads the better right? If you can't sell it, or change your mind, PM me as I've got space for another British turd in my lockup in the Wairarapa. Can store there while you tackle the engine. Will have some other British stablemates to keep it company.

https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/other/listing/3838863156

^This. Try and find new. Had some z1 Kawasaki forks rechromed for $$ and they were absolutely ruined. Super wavy, and one was like 1mm less diameter. Useless job. Would never get any rechromed again. A bit of hunting and you can find most stanchions overseas for not too much money shipped.

I've got a spare magdyno for sale if you'd like to go that route. Clockwise mag direction. Tapered shaft. Was sparking and dynomo-ing last I checked.

Wow Wayne, Looks like brand spankers. What was the process to get it looking that clean?