sheepers

dude, sign up to toymods. it will take a few days to get your account activated but youll be right after that. there is a thread called "for the love of a tractor engine, the life and times of the 18RG" it has everything you could want to know about 18RG's. sheepers.

a spring is a torsion bar but in a coil form really, if you over twist a torsion bar i guess it would shear but with a coil spring you cant do that because it would become coil bound before you got the chance to over stress it? if you had a spring working right on the edge of its limits (really close to becoming bound all the time) i suppose it could fracture the steel but Ive never heard of this happening. i dunno, passably the difference between one and the other is the rate of "settle" you know, one might change more over time changing the way your car behaves?? never heard of this happening either though????????????????? some words of confusion. sheepers.

i deleted it. because, as with everything else you post on this forum, it was redundant (as pointed out by Spencer and others) and your language and manor was, as always, abrupt, confrontational and derogatory. notice the way you have written "whos the dickhead" at the beginning of your post. this is exactly the sort of thing that I'm talking about, and is going to get you banned very shortly. pull you head in, be a bit more friendly and helpful or fuck off. sheepers.

yea, id be keen to know what speaker you used. did you try to match the electrical specifications/efficiencies of the original or just use something that fit? sheepers.

4M = loss. let us know how it goes with the above mentioned shit.

it will differentiate between a "heat soak" type issue (probably electrical) and a possibility of over fueling. toyotas like to flood the shit out of themselves when they are cold, no such a flash idea when they are hot. could be something to do with the cold start injector, or the temp sensor that controls it. anyway, its just a bit more information to go with to try to help you fix it. let us know tomorrow. have you thought of doing a 4M conversion? no pesky cold start issues with an M, cauz they dont start any time. definitely worth thinking about sheepers (who LOL's himself)

good work man, kudos for sticking with it even when things didnt go right first time. it looks pretty straight from the photos and black is the worst colour for dents and such. my advice, continue in your present fashion and all will be sweet. sheepers.

the mirror seems to be in good nick. its very rattley, like its full of dust but the base is sweet and the studs are rust free. the mirror is fine with no marks on it. its yours man, maybe if some Ham boes are passing through they could grab it, or you could roll up here. whatever man, its not going anywhere. and its really Callum you need to thank for it, he gave it to me (i think he gave it to me, i dont remember paying for it )

what happens if you start it when its cold, let it idle for like 30 seconds and then turn it off, wait the 5 mins and try to start it again? will it start straight away or do you get the same problem? sheepers.

yet again, what you "think" is wrong. they have ceramic wheels and fly to bits at the drop of a hat.

my RA28 has been off the road for 18 years.............. over half its life.

you can have it man. i have no idea what condition its in. i haven't looked at it for ages. ill get it down out of the roof tonight and have a check, i think its pretty good. sheepers.

i have a round mirror for a 65, not sure if its left or right or if it even matters, but its here and you can have it if you need it. sheepers.

dont know if i can make it at this stage. dont have OS car, my one is bent. have many stuff to do so i dont know, if i show up i show up.............

toyo R888's are tops. i have herd a rumor that they are only going to be making them for another 2 months. Brendon at A1 turbos swears by Bridgestone Adrenalins, he said that he's tried everything else and the bridgestones are by far the best. they are a road tyre that has mega grip when you push a bit but dont wear out like a slick. ive spoken to a couple of tyre guys and they give me the same answer. ive never used them but i intend to.

join toymods if you want information you can trust. also, 2j injectors are no bigger than 1j. been proven many times on toymods. 230KW is realistic with a big single, a decent intercooler, good exhaust and a good tune. you can make 230 on stock turbos but you need to spend some coin on the turbos and computer and such, its cheaper to go single, easier to. have a search on toymods, im pretty sure there are a couple of guys who have done the conversion and documented it fairly well. sheepers.

fuck man, i hope you can get it back together in time for this weekend. were you even planing to be a toupo for the nats? i had the impression you were. anyway, i was looking forward to seeing your car on the track and having a fang around behind you. hope you get it together real soon. sheepers.

id like to buy "throttle pump is fucked" for 10$. i reckon you'll find the throttle pump is fucked, (as UJ said) then once you fix that you'll find that almost everything else is fucked too (worn throttle shaft seals, float needle not sealing/not there, EVERY setting for the linkages worn/set incorrectly) and it will continue to trouble you for years to come. may i suggest you spend approx 300$ and get your carb professionally rebuilt? i know it sounds like allot of money but you will get that money back in petrol savings in six months. find a place that you can drive to, leave the car there and pick it up latter. Ask them to tune the car once they have done the carb. the place in Auckland to go to is "Carburetor Specialists Ltd, 09 3071773. Its a special feeling when you get in your car at 5.30 in the morning, there is ice on the windshield, and your car starts and idles perfectly, and your car is 35 years old. Live the dream!!!!!!!! sheepers.

most definitely. Ive made a few changes that should make it go faster and its going back on the dyno for a bit of a "post heat shrink on the coils" tune. will be interesting to see how it goes. Ive still got a few things to do but nothing major. see you there. sheepers.

have a look here for starters, viewtopic.php?f=17&t=9805&hilit=sheepers+ra28 there is plenty of detail missing but just ask questions you may have and ill point you in the right direction. sheepers.

hey man, your post will get deleted because your not supposed to discuss the car in this thread, there is another thread for that. \anyway, check out the link to my RA28 in my signature. it should point you in the right direction with the 1UZ. the R&P conversion is not to difficult and well worth the space. i reckon you'd be pretty tight trying to get the exhaust past the steering box.... sheepers.

its the centre boss that needs to be right. centrelines come from the factory with slotted holes, i dont know the exact rules (pity Callum isint still around) but if centreline can advertise slotted mags in "hot rod" mag and various others then they must be do-able. sheepers

if your going to v8, then keep it in the family/ genre and go 283 holden. worst engine ever made. sept maybe an "M"

you cant handle the truth!! where truth = power. anywho, have you discovered how much of a head fuck it is to build a rover V8 that doesn't suck?? going for a fang in a 1uz powered anything will change your mind. my new car is vvt 1uz powered, does lush skids. take you for a burn. feel the power of the jap side...........

yea, i might bring my new car.... its to lush to not drive it and everyone's seen the celica. or, ultra thought! get the misses to drive the new car. must bring hat though.