keltik

Usually theres a harness plug that goes onto the trans near the shifter cable, have a look at it and you may find 2 of the wires going to it are a thicker gauge than the rest. On Subaru they are colored white with black stripe and white with red stripe. Bridging those 2 will have the same effect as being in park or neutral. Otherwise youll need a wiring diagram to figure out which 2 to make things go brum. Plan B is to hotwire the bitch by making a jump cable straight from the battery to the starter solenoid.

I like that you like this car. You can have it if you want.

Slush fund? I thought you were supposed to siphon gas out of the mower to make it to hawkes boes

Paint it yellow, bolt on some spinning wing things and go with buzzy bee, Then you can wear a highly flammable bumblebee costume while riding it. All the bitches be right hot for that

But imagine if you were to pull on the handbrake at speed, one wheel could lock before the other and that would be unsafe. My Honda passed on VTNZ rollers with virtually no handbrake. It sat there with the front wheels doing burnouts on the concrete thanks to super tight center diff.

Smaller exhaust wheel will be causing greater exhaust gas backpressure. That pressure acting over a larger surface area from the ported wastegate will put a much greater force on the actuator than what the previous turbo probably did. Seems like an easy fix.

I prefer to use an eftpos card and a shop....

Nah just clunky enough to irritate me. Wof guy said he would appreciate me doing it also.

Agreed. Might do it next week sometime once the pug is gone. Will have new pads and some other bits to throw at the car at the same time.

Havnt done it yet, keen to play with your tool

Just below that camera view is a child being vigorously molested

Would it be better to make a bridle so all of the cables are pulled in a straight line and equal distaince?

I would say its a high impedance through the switch. When you flick the hazard lights on, as both sets of bulbs are going you may be getting enough current draw to run the flasher properly, but with only left or right turn signal - it might not be pulling enough juice. Thats my theory anyways.

Vacuum leak or badly set timing is my guess.

But put heaps of ITB's on it and make 200kw Hmmm now that i think about it, the injectors are in the heads on these motors....so would be the easiest thing ever to slam ITB's on.

Well the original plan was to supercharge my motor to get it up to around 180-200kw at the wheels....but i just had a thought. I could purchase a EZ30R motor, drop it straight in, bolt on all of my ancillaries and then just re-tune. Would give me around 180 at the wheels and i wouldnt need a cert, in fact i wouldnt need to change anything. Then i can sell my old motor on and recoup approx 50% of the costs. Plus i'd be buying a newer motor with far less k's on it. So really, im looking at about $800 to get variable valve lift and variable cam timing. Would also get one exhaust port per cylinder and a free-er flowing intake manifold. Only modification required on the car would be to change the exhaust headers since the rest of the motor is identical. Peak torque is higher and earlier, total power is much higher, area under the power plot will be greater due to the extra efficiency of the variable timing. Sounds like a good idea yes? Currently waiting on dyno plot from my mate with an EZ30R so i can compare it to my current motor and see what kinda differences there are. Im pretty sure we have both run on the same dyno.

Oh wait so 'rack end' just means the other end of the tie-rod. Well fuck thats easy.

Where the hell can i buy a NGK powerdex in New Zealand?! Tossing up whether to spend this weeks pocket money on a wideband or a new set of sparking plugs... Also, i will google this shortly but in the meantime - changing a rack end...what is it? What does it do? Where do i buy some... Ive only ever gotten as far as tie-rods and rack bushes....these rack end things are a mystery to me.

^THIS in a big way.

Hmm good idea that. Will be signing this thread over to Treggo i guess, looks like hes purchasing it.

The size of testicles required to go above 100 on this death trap would be bad for aerodynamics.

Tbh theres not really much serviceable shit in an inverter. Does it make a humm when you turn it on and hook up a load? Most common fault with mine was me forgetting to turn the power switch on. Then i filled it full of sump oil and coolant, still goes but not quite as well. Inverters, how the fuck do they work?....

How hard can it be?

Yeah wouldnt be hard to do. After the hatchbacks nightmares - fuel surge is one of my main enemies.

Do they use a low pressure prime/lift pump like the VL?