keltik

will it still sound as cool as the old one? Nope, the newer motors sound waaaaaaay hornier!!!! See this; KYsZ1-IqS1w Yup, old motor was good for 120kw on keiths dyno. Ive seen the new one return 184kw on a rolling road. Bollocks, easiest mod ever. Ask mike if he enjoys it.

Nope never did, it looked hard/didnt have one.

Holy shit! Sounds like the brakes are just barrels of fun! Never noticed that trouble when i was driving it.

Alrighty boys 'n girls. So yeah this thing needs new rings and a new gearbox. Not entirely unexpected. Its seen 120,000kms of hard abuse with me and ive finally worn the engine out at just over 200,000 on the clock. The gearbox is no suprise either since i keep buying $200 ones that have no warranty from crashed boy racer cars. So this time im going to drop in the 3.0R motor, which unlike mine has: one exhaust port per cylinder, 2 stage variable valve lift, constantly variable timing on the inlet cams and a better flowing inlet manifold. This engine will drop straight in and should only require minor wiring for the VTEK solenoids etc. Should also only require an hour or 2 on the dyno to adapt my tune to it. On the gearbox front. I dont really want to buy another shitter - especially since shortly a more powerful engine will be going in front of it. So im on the lookout for either a later model 5 speed OR if the gods smile on me, a DCCD 6 speed. For those who dont know, DCCD boxes have a 'Driver Controlled Center Differential' which basically uses some electromagnets and a PWM controller to allow you to set the lockup of the center diff. It can go from a 75-35 torque split to locked 50-50. So i should be able to do RWD style skids and be cool like all the big boys. Will be tearing some of the motor out this weekend and will start touching up the engine bay/tunnel getting it ready for the new goodies. Also have some new Bilstein struts and some decent'er brake pads to throw at it. So should be a pretty sweet overhaul. Only cunty thing is that the motor i want is rather expensive usually. However, because the most popular thing for wreckers to sell is the power steering pump and alternator - im able to get a motor without those for significantly cheaper. My units should fit and so this option saves me money. The downside is that i have to wait for the one particular wrecker who agreed to this to get one in stock. So heres waiting time.

Its a 15amp fuse which is whats specced on the fuse cover, draw is about 2amp at idle so i think a 15amp fuse should do the trick.

Ok i think i might have found the problem here! While i was rummaging through the fuse box trying to sort out my wonky fuel and temp gauges - i discovered one fuse was fuckin' hot. Turns out that was the 'Engine' fuse which sends power to the coil and of course, voltage regulator! Popped the fuse out, fired it up and it ran like the nasty sack of shit ive come to despise. Cleaned contacts - put fuse back in and it ran nicely again. The fuse isnt as hot as before but its still rather warm so will clean up the contacts properly today and check all of the connections behind the fuse panel. Then i can get back to trying to figure out why my gauges have decided to be all lies. Im 99% sure its a shit ground somewhere under the dash so will just rip most of the dash out today and tidy up as much as possible.

Bring me back a popsicle?

Ah fair enough then.

Not the worst idea ive ever heard.

Nah but in all seriousness, could pay to whip the head off and have a squiz. See just how fucked things are? Massive valve seat recession should be obvious otherwise you can start looking in other areas. Head gaskets are cheap and this thing is pushrod, so how hard can it be?

Have Ute, can oblige if its big and cunty.

Take head off and strike repeatedly with a hammer until it goes properly.

Seriously dude, once youve checked everything else - try the timing thing i mentioned. Keith was telling me it drove him fucking nuts for aaaaages. Im fairly certain it was the same flavour megasquirt too. Had exactly the same problems you describe.

I seem to remember Keith Stewart telling me about a similar problem when was tuning my wagons link. In his case - it was to do with the software having an issue where you couldnt set the ignition timing within a certain range for some software reason or it would start jumping all over the show. He had to re-calibrate the triggers to an incorrect value so he could set the timing cells at like 60 degrees for idle to avoid the 10-30 degree range. So it was still actually firing at 15 degrees but the software didnt think so. Thats what i remember him saying anyways.

Does the JZ have a variable intake system of some sort? TVIS or whatever? I had a pretty big dip on my EZ30 from the Subaru TVIS equivalent thing switching over from low RPM to high mode. This caused a rich spike which in turn caused the power dip.

Most excellent. Passenger seat of Hilux is free for any cunts who wanna ride in style.

Should keep a list of attendees and vehicles in the 1st post so people can feel more motivated to haul their lazy arses along

AND THE RESULTS ARE IN!!!!!

Yeah that Z32 must be the paint code since fuck all else is the same between our motors.

Ok ive been poking this thing all morning and im still fucking mystified. Took the alternator off and attempted to strip it down, 2 of the casing bolts were solid i didnt get any further than that. Put it back together and still wouldnt charge. So i got the multi-meter out and prodded various things. Was checking for good grounds and such. I was fumbling with some wires when i heard a click, so i tried starting it and it charged great. I re-fucked around with those wires hoping to get it to die again but no luck. Of the 3 terminals on the back of the alternator labeled E, N and F, the F terminal receives voltage from the regulator as you would expect to energize the windings. The N terminal im assuming is the ground for the windings which the regulator uses to control voltage output, this was showing about 6volts when it was charging. The E terminal doesnt really seem to do anything at all - doesnt make a difference if its connected or not. I dont think its a diode problem anymore since the alternator is clearly capable of producing a good output. Also diodes dont generally tend to fix themselves overnight. It cant be a regulator problem since ive tried 2 of them now. My thoughts are a dodgy relay or wiring problem somewhere but fuck knows where. When it wasnt charging, you could unplug the regulator with no noises or any reaction. After it started charging again, there was definitely current flowing to/through the reg as unplugging resulted in a little arc in the plug contacts.

QFT

Bell would rage with jealousy if i slammed an air locker and mud 33's on that thing. Will re-do the alternator to battery wiring tomorrow as its all corroded and not up to my standards. Then i can look at ripping the alternator off and changing things. The regulator is much better than the old one so at least i AM making improvements. Also the tacho, temp and fuel gauges are all piss poor inaccurate lumps of excrement. Im hoping this is to do with wonky voltage issues. Even the stereo which is also a lump of excrement seems to be taking offence yet battery voltage is above 11 so i would expect it to run better than it does. With dwell and injector dead time compensation, the wagon will idle smooth right down to 9v

CUNT! Not you cam. Electrical things. Charge light back on after a cold start. Im thinking fucked diodes in the alternator. I get a 12v DC output and a 35v AC output from the alt battery terminal. No idea if thats normal or not since i dont own any other externally regulated stz. Chur for parts offer, will be looking at rebuilding the front axle after Christmas. Until then ill put up with a bit of clunking and massive amounts of diff oil leakage.

Sweet! New voltage reg sorted problems. Worked all good. 13.8v at idle now. Will see how the reliability plays out over the next few days but if i can start it cold in the morning without that pesky charge light - ill be a rather happy man.