keltik

I like this idea and support it. Can we incorporate a mean feed in whatever we do tho? I do like a mean feed.

So to tie all the pieces together and summarise. The tiny points gap was giving a very low dwell. During the voltage drops due to dodgy regulator - the dwell time combined with lower voltage and worn out HT leads was causing a very poor spark. Any significant load resulting in a missfire. Still need to swap the voltage reg over, i have one from my Subaru i could retrofit. Thats only worth doing if they cost lots to buy new tho.

Points gap was vitually non-existant. Cleaned the plugs and now its a shitload better. Runs mint in fact! Went for a celebratory 4x4 session with JohnnyB and VG and it performed perfectly....until the exhaust fell off.

Alrighty, so when it was running crap this morning, i whacked the voltmeter on the output from the alternator and it was about 8v at approx 1800rpm. Battery voltage at this point was down to about 11v. I went home to try slamming a new regulator in and the wiring was different, so i put the old one back in and now it works fine again! What the fuck son. Must be either an alternator or regulator fault surely. Output was up closer to 12v.

Ok, it started and ran fine for a little bit, then died and stranded me. Again, no voltage. What internally reg'd alternators can i bolt onto this thing?

Hmm couldnt see an F using my headlampy thing. Will have a look in the morning. Whats the bet it starts and runs fine just to fuck with me.

Apologies for a potentially stupid question. But which terminal is going to be field one? I know i can rule out the big bugger but that still leaves 3 more mystery terminals.

Nope its on solid at all rpm. Im guessing the regulator is fucked but dont know how to test or check it.

Damn! all i have is this steeenkin 2ZZ!!

21R from a Celica i believe

Cant seem to trace the main power wire, it goes into the voltage regulator then i dont know which one it comes back out as. Popped the top off the reg and it scares me. All connections are secure tho

Leads are fucked, cap appears to be newish. Have new leads on the way and Johnny did the points and condensor i believe....should probably just text him and find out i guess. But yeah, leads and plugs shall be sorted - in the meantime, what should i do about this intermittent charge light and crap running? Stuffed a beefy ground lead on there temporarily and it made SFA difference

Evenin' all. My/exJohnnyB's Hilux has this nasty habit of deciding not to run whenever it pleases. 2 of the 3 times this has happened to me now, the charge light comes on. Car has an external voltage regulator and i cant remember if John said he had replaced it or just sent it a smily face. The motor will run fairly sweet and pootle about with no troubles, then nek minnit/next day it will just instantly run lumpy, refuse to idle and refuse to fire at all if the throttle is opened too far. So to me, this sounds like an electrical fault. When the trouble occurs, battery voltage is 12v. Resistance between block and negative terminal of battery is about 30ohm (.5ohm with engine stopped) and alternator is spinning away. The last 2 times ive just got frustrated, left it alone and the next day it runs perfectly again. Ive inspected HT leads, coil wiring, voltage regulator wiring, body ground points and alternator connections. All of them have been sub-standard but there doesnt seem to be one thing thats causing the problems. I would just leave it alone again but would really like it to make it to pit-stop tomorrow morning so i can have an exhaust fitted. Open to suggestions on what to check gents. I know absolutely fuck all about external voltage regulators so dont even know where to begin.

^ If you do do this, which i hope you do. NO SAFETY SHIELDS

Sand? Like what those ferrari fellahs do

Cant decide which part of this sentence is more disgusting.

Technically speaking you'd be getting better efficiency with everything working normally and just driving the car correctly.

Swap front and rear prop shafts?

Chur will take you up on that offer, road trip tomorrow after works possible?

The carb? Or is this the entire old motor? What happened to that thing anyways?

Best idea ive heard all week. Would get a million views on facetube instantly

Ah yup, been quite a few years since i played in a Niva. From what i remember, your not allowed to just unhook driveshafts. I tried this on my Honda and was told by mr wof man that i would need to remove the diff and get certed for it to be legal.

Got my DHLA40's done by webber specs in Silverdale and they did an awesome job. Would trade again Yeah that guys is a class act. He sent me a few bits for my webers and knew exactly what was what.

Well yeah, needing a cert was obvious. If its a subaru you just grind the splines out of the center diff so the front gets no power. Then it all looks stock as a rock but bakes up the rears. I cant think what car would need a hole cut in the firewall for a distributor AND be 4WD unless its a 4x4....but then why would you do that?

Might need a flywheel or something similar to get them to start up? To my completely inept ear - the cranking speed sounds a bit low so your not getting enough inertia for the engines that ARE firing to get the rest running.