cubastreet

Read up on the procedure for breaking in a new cam too. YOu don't want to let it idle for the first 20 minutes or so, else you can destroy the cam.

You'll get a few horses, but it's only about a 4% increase in capacity so it won't pin you to the back of your seat or anything. If there's a ridge at the top of the bores it would probably be worth doing. Another option is just to hone the bores and put new rings in. If you grind the cam/followers it will make that side of the valvetrain shorter which will alter the angle of the rockers when you screw them down giving you less lift. You need to compensate for this to get the most power. Easiest way is to avoid it by either getting a new cam and lifters or making sure they weld new metal to the cam lobes before the regrind. Dodgy machine shops will just regrind your old cam as-is. there's millions of A Series engines so lifters are probably cheap enough, not worth regrinding.

Yeah I got one like that from supercheap. Only like $20 and has done my ute bed and tailgate and one fender and still looks almost like new. Doesn't damage steel so it's all good.

wire wheel in a grinder works pretty well if you end up going that way. Did the bed of my ute in about 4 hours. fucken noisy tho, needed bits of toilet paper stuffed in my ears cos my old man swiped my muffs. Your floor doesn't look that bad though don't think I'd bother with bare metal. That brush on bedliner they sell at supercheap is real good for floors. it's basically a plastic coating so it resists scuffing and is nice and waterproof.

1) Prolly not worth it unless the bores are shagged anyway. You need to strip the engine completely for a rebore, so add a full gasket kit and lots of hours to the cost. Would be silly not to check and likely replace big end/main bearings at the same time and recon the head. Probably better off spending the coin on carbs or exhaust if you're on a budget. 2) Sounds about right. 3) New or reground standards should be fine Pay attention to valvetrain geometry if the cam/followers are reground ones.

ea81s are the last subbie ohv engine, narrow enough to fit in the 1600 chassis rails without modification. Pretty sure the 1400 had the same chassis. 5sp would be good. I'd do it to mine but with dual range 4wd the levers are in different positions and I can't be bothered with cutting up the tunnel. Gives you the option to put in front LSD which might be nice.

They can be squeezed in apparently, with the help of a hammer to widen the rails. EA81s are a direct swap, easy way to go if you just want a little more power. Cheap as too. I've got a weber and adaptor plate but don't know if I'll even install them might just go EFI and save doing everything twice.

I'm not looking for massive amounts of power, ea81s are awesome motors but there's only so much you can reliably get from a 25 year old engine with pushrods and 3 mains. If you want high power reliably you're best off swapping in an ej22. Probably looking to get 120-130hp. I'm more after the extra torque for drivability and the mad max factor of having a switchable blower. Mad fun on dirt tracks Eaton M45

It's happening, but on a tight budget so pretty slowly. At the moment I'm mostly doing panel work. Hope to get that finished by christmas to take it to Nelson to spray the whole thing as I know someone with a panelshop there. I've got a rebuilt ea81 with big valve heads which i'll clean up the ports on. Still deciding between LPG (easy option, cheaper in the long run but will need a tank in the tray of the ute which I don't want.) And injection with megasquirt. I've been pretty keen on ms since I heard about it so now's a good time to give it a go. Prolly will make up some carbon fibre inlet manifolds like the aero boys do. Looks simple enough and I have plenty of experience fibreglassing. Pretty much decided on an eaton SC from a mini cooper s. cheap and readily available in the UK (~100 quid) and more efficient than an sc12. Haven't thought much about IC yet, but will prolly fit something as well.

A race cam will prolly be higher lift, can measure that with micrometer.

K&Ns from repco / just about anywhere?

You might just need a decent set of pads on, it's a light car and mine pulls up pretty sweet on the standard brakes. Mind you I've only got a 4g36 and I'm used to driving a 3T van

If you put the t between the tank and the pump the fuel will just do a circuit. blocking might be hard on the pump and you'd have to make sure the joints are sealed well as it'll reise the pressure in the fuel line but like others have said it can be done without problems.

it's a heathkit - an american kitset one from the seventies i think. was just $12 but i did have to pull it apart and trace the circuits cos i couldn't find a wiring diagram for it on the net. i've used http://tinyurl.com/jhgvo on both the engines i converted to lpg in england. cheap and a definite improvement each time. not as good as cdi tho. jaycar do some electronic ignition kits and also sell hall effect sensors for breakerless conversions but you prolly need to recon your dizzy as well if you really want accurate timing

I bought an old cdi unit (capacitor discharge - puts a few hundred volts through the coil instead of 12) off trademe last week and put it in the lancer as that's my daily until i can get the brumby back on the road. It was running pretty ok before, but a bit rough and gutless even for a 1200 when cold. i put in the cdi unit, regapped the plugs to 1mm and the difference was huge. it runs super smooth even from cold and never misses at any engine speed the other bonus is that only a tiny bit of power runs through the points so they last about ten times longer. anyone else tried one out? i've heard they're no good for lean-burn engines but don't spose that applies to many oldskool rides anyhow.

pretty expensive to get these flowed as they're iron and take so long. If you've got a die grinder you might want to do what I did - find someone who used to do a lot of xflow heads and get them to do one inlet and one exhaust port for you, then do the rest yourself as close to that as you can. Took me quite a few lunch times at work but i ended up with a nice head for fifty quid. double valve springs would be good to get hold of too.

Hello mate, is that lpgsuperchargedbrumby you're talking about? I've been meaning to PM him about how he did his conversion as I think he may have used a sc12, but got boost hungry and turned it into a grenade. Yeah tell him to give me a shout and we can maybe swap some ideas, maybe put a knock sensor in the block too.

Maybe I'll do a megasquirt conversion on the original engine first then and transfer it over to the s/c engine when it's done. Don't think there'll be much choice in rings for the pistons in the engine, it's not one that has any aftermarket tuning items or anything. There was a turbo EA82 engine with the same bore, but I think they were dished to reduce the CR even further which I don't really want. I just read that on the 4agze at least, the sc12 increeases the intake temp by about 15 celsius off boost because it's attached to the engine so an intercooler may be a good idea. Can't see what good it would do attached to the inlet of the s/c tho. The spare wheel sits above the engine so if I take that out there's plenty of room for a top-mount but I don't want to cut the bonnet so front mount would be preferable. It must be relatively simple to run a bypass valve to avoid heating the air when off boost right? This car's to be my daily driver so economy and drivability are the main priorities, along with a bit of off-roading as well (it's dual-range 4WD)

I have a 1981 subaru brumby ute, the only year with the 70s style body and the 1800 engine. I'm building a new engine for it, starting with the same ea81 pushrod block. I want to make the ute quick but not super fast, and want torque low-down so I'm thinking to supercharge it. The chassis won't fit a subaru ohc engine without hammering/cutting and I don't want to do this. The bores are nice and wide at 92mm and the valves should be big enough for some decent flow so I'll just do some regular head flowing and just leave it at that. The compression is 8.7:1 standard and I'm thinking just to leave it at that and run about 6psi boost with no intercooler. Sound reasonable? Looking at the 2nd hand supercharger market the one off the 4agze engine looks like a possible go, think it may be called a sc10. Sound reasonable? for fuel, I have two options: 1) a twin choke weber. now which would be better: suck or blow through and why? 2)TBI from an EA82 1800 ohc engine and either ecu from that modified or megasquirt. Also, i've heard of switchable s/c setups. the electric clutch is easy, but how does the engine get air when the s/c is off? is it sucking it through the s/c or does another valve open? Any advice/comments/suggestions are welcome

Peugeot Some oldies like 404,405 = 4x140, same as old subaru Subaru New pattern 5x100 (thanks hell)