yoeddynz

Fuck yeah! I turned up at the yard last weekend just as Jesse was about to load it onto the trailer. I'd not seen it the two weeks prior. What an awesome score. Rusty old wagons! Yes Man you'll be swarming in Barries when you pull up to a service station in this! Looking forward muchly to all the good updates. I too am looking for a dorty, lightweight engine for my wag so interested in what you look find.

Looks really good in there!!! Heaps of room. You could always fit a speedy sleeve (or two.. or three.... ) onto your type 9 output shaft, so taking it out in diameter. If the difference is too much for speedy sleeves then it'll be easy enough for a decent machinist to spin up a sleeve to suit. Wouldn't even need to be a super tight fit, just a nice light interference fit with some locktite 601 to be sure. Or machine up a new bush for the box and fit a seal with a smaller inner diameter. In saying all that, if your driveshaft is not the correct length then it'll be modded anyway, so as you were...

My brother bought an orange one of these in Blenheim back in the early '90s. Bought it from some old boy who had cherished it and wanted it to go to a good home. We hooned around in it, had fun, fitted a roofrack and took it to various ski fields for weekends of boarding. It never let us down. My brother eventually sold it to some Japanese snowboarders in Chch. Last time we saw it was outside Cafe Java all beat up and looking sad. I felt bad for that little car. Cool cars. Enjoy.

I completely forgot about last meet. Should make this one.

Yep...

I shall have a play. But for now I shall continue fucking about with our NZ new Sentra with a GA16DS that has a Carb which only a few countries got. It has three solenoids. It keeps over fueling on light throttle and then bogs down massively until it stops and wont start again. Fuck I hate carbs that try to be all smart and shit. I want to burn this car! Going to fit a Stromberg and make it good...like a an English car Rage!

Are you adding air with the idle air bleed screw or by using the idle control valve? I'm asking because I only use my idle control valve, a PWM unit, to control the warm up circuit. After its warmed up I have set my idle using just the fuel table and spark settings. I'm idling around 13 13.5 and pretty smooth at that, but I get that not so nice rich smell about the car. If I go much leaner, say to 13.5 - 14, then it starts hunting and going a little rough. And how much timing are you pulling? My engine is somewhere around 15 degrees at idle so there is room to pull some and still be close to what I think would be a 'factory' type idle tune? Edit; I must add that I'll never achieve a factory perfect idle, at low rpm, with an inherently unbalanced V6 running a super light flywheel. But its fun to try...

I'm guessing they were not made to fine engineering standards of Britain though? But I'm interested in your experiences. I reckon if an engine starts to smoke because the valves have been made to seal again then it was probably due for a rebuild anyway? We can always have a quick check with some blue to see what they are like before we grind but with all the crap sitting there I cant leave it alone. I certainly don't want to risk a valve burning out due to some carbon getting smacked into the seat. I'll look through my little stash of valve stem seals Ive collected and see if there is something that might work. Considering my current fitted engine is a the same setup without seals and its doesnt blow excessive smoke on start up or overrun I'm not that worried anyway.

I think there is a difference between this head and later heads around the spring seats and there just isnt the room to fit stem seals. I'm not that worried either but yeah, like you said, while its apart I might as well slide some o-rings on.

As per the suggestion from Adoom I jacked the back end up onto axle stands, started it, clanged it into gear, gave it some revs, clutch in and slammed on the brakes. Ping! Clutch freed off! Smiles and much punching of air. Removed stands, pumped up flat front tyre and took it for a spin up the drive. All good. Parked it inside and wiped all the pine tree pollen off making it look concours mint... Rang my friendly garage and its booked in for a WOF. Meanwhile the new engine has now got new crank seals. I looked down the inlet ports (all two of them..) and the valves look a bit oily and mucky. Because I have a spare head gasket set to suit this engine I think it makes sense to give it a look over. Because I like to treat people to fun things I think I'll get Hannah to pop the head off, strip it down and give it all a good cleanup. She can re-grind the valves in. This is an early engine without valve stem seals but a friend who knows these engines well said they used to slide an O-ring over each inlet stem and it serves to stop too much oil running down the stem? Seems legit? Anyone heard of this? Answers on the back of a pie packet please and post to Bodgit and Scarper race engines, Marahau. Once back together it can get a coat of fresh paint and it'll pretty much be a fully re-conned race motor. Took the exhaust manifold off because its studs look like future anguish in waiting. I shall deal to them while its out. I don't see them coming out in one piece....

Trying to lure Shane to come down for swap meet. Maybe @Slacker_Sam. should make his way south too

Mcleans island swap meet? Will there be some sort of meet there and if so do you chch folk start a separate thread for that? I've a friend here who is keen on heading down and we can take a trailer to bring back stuff... like imps... @- i5oogt - @CUL8R Will be looking for a place to stay where we can talk old car shit and drink beer.

Yeah quite a bit cheaper. I think Micheal is referring to the massive lump shown in the second photo. You should look into a custom flywheel. Find the right engineering shop and it might not be as expensive as you think. My one was made in Auckland and is a chromoly item using the ring gear off a stock Mazda flywheel. Well at least I was told it was chromoly... but really if its half decent steel and built correctly it would still be stronger than trying to machine a cast item as light. I'd machine one up for myself if I had a lathe large enough.. I think even with my gap removed my Colchester doesn't have enough throw. Then get it to a decent engine machine shop for some balancing.

Yeah this^ I got away with 10mm alloy because I machined up flanged inserts out of steel. But for the smallish amount of weight I saved I reckon it would be easier to just make it from steel like steve did. I don't like Claire's adaptors. I think her plates are 20mm thick alloy which means hanging the flywheel out a long way to suit. This doesn't make good engineering sense. I dare say her alloy plate is not far off the weight of a parred down steel item.

Damn you swanky gits with CAD and all that I must stop reading forums and start practicing fusion 360!!!! The drawings above should work but I'd still be inclined to double check the measurements against your block and gearbox to make sure. Using measurements off the nerdnet is only as accurate as the fella who originally measured them.

Whoops. Probably wont make show. But Sam- you can take the nelson banner if you are going- or anyone else you can grab it. Its just sitting on the wall.

oh awesome- thanks for the offer. I'll see what this one is like and I might have a spare too. If not I'll PM you! Now get back to work on that Viva!

YES!!!! I think I have been to this a couple of times and its usually pretty damn good ! Will try to make it again. We can do an oldschool line up and I'll bring the Nelson banner

Nah I'd disagree. I made my ecu for $500 which included buying the better version of tunerstudio. My coil pack cost 40 bucks. The sensors and wires all came from the mazda I got the first engine from ( of which I sold the rest and made money on) You'll need a Jimstim to check your ms2 build ( borrow one from someone as I did) and you'll want a wideband to tune with. I bought an innovate mtxl but cheaper options out there now. Use a second hand fuel pump from a commodore. So ignoring my time and a few silly little bits I'd say my fuel injection cost me less than a grand. Or build a speeduino ecu for $100 I'd been following this resto with much interest and was halfway through catching up then forgot it. Only caught up now. Fine engine choice. You'll love it. Proper good little, lightweight screamer of an engine and so smooth. I think steve (transom) has covered most things really well so I can't add anything at this point.

Yep. Tiny and light. Picked this one up and lifted it on to the bench easily. Maybe modify the shit out of the soon to be spare engine!? Three bearing crank for minimum resistance and max economy... Edit: then add turbo.

Poor suzuki being infected by Harley filth

Yeah it was from Shane. Yep- the MX5 engine that was being sold out of Petes anglia, on trademe for $500 with gearbox.. I almost bid on it and I wish I did. Even just as a setup for a rainy day. But they are still heavy engines. The b6 engine is heavier than my V6, hence why the V6 is becoming a popular swap for Mx5s. I imagine the 4AGEs are a similar weight? Plus spendy with all that scene tax....never mind finding a cheap box to suit.

I love the idea of those little 3 cylinder ecoboost engines. Very interested in them when they came out. I think the L4 engines are the same as Mazda skyactivs? I've priced them up and they are still pretty damn expensive here in NZ. However- if I sold the V6 Viva I'd have some coin to realistically import some bits and bobs from the UK, where these engines are plentiful and cheap! I'd love to do a GM Saab L4 engine from a 9.5 which bolts straight up to a 4 cylinder commy box among others. Great engines, understressed, awesome power potential. Amazing what power the Saab guys are getting from them overseas on the stock bottom end. But they are sadly a heavy engine.

Oh yeah- I've swooned over those old swift engines for many years. So neat. So rare now. so pricey. I've read about some rare version of the Nissan SR16 engine that is meant to be a real screamer and pretty lightweight. I think a real high comp ratio etc (which ain't a great thing really if it means one has to source 98 and then pay for it! )

You'll be at the finish line while I'm still spinning up my little 13" wheel creating puffs of smoke. Maybe a rolling start somewhere. That's where it shines! Once its got the power down. 1st gear is useless and second gear slams the diff head against the tunnel, the prop shaft uni has left marks in the underseal! Silly rx7 box with its low ratios.