yoeddynz

Hey thanks for the lovely comments. Nah i have never considered it. I don't consider myself very confident behind a video camera and start getting a bit paranoid/self conscious about my voice. So I've always just been happy behind the keyboard. However I do love writing build threads in the hope that not only will they entertain but that they'll also inform others enough and help- just as so many threads out there have taught me back. We are right in the middle of tidying up our housetruck for sale and once its sold will be starting a new house on wheels of which I am really bloody excited about! Being able to build your own cheap house is something that is ever more important these days and with the whole new trendy 'tiny house' thing having really kicked off there is certainly a lot of interest out there. I could perhaps do a vblog for that build and just see how it goes and how I fair.

Oh. That sux.

Snifter Green (are snifters still available???) is similar to the original wagon colour. Not keen on matching green cars.

Yeah I quite like gulf blue. But wouldn't do the whole scheme because its a bit over done I feel. I do like this imp in martini colours though even though I'm not normally a fan of red...

Ooooh I cant wait to see this ^ !

Shame if probetalk has gone downhill. Good info on there and much less Crap than on the mx6 forums. Probetalk... Should be about aliens...

The only thing you need to swap across are the exhaust valve followers. Bin the ze inlet followers and replace with the exhaust followers from the de. (and appropriate springs too iirc)

I think the general concensus among enthusiasts is that they are safe to 8000. After that the oil pump will struggle to keep up flow (for long periods in race cars that is) and anyway- power falls away beyond 7k so not much point. The stock hydrulic followers will also pump up. The last G4 engines had solid lifters to cope ( although I already know that you have been nerdy enough to learn all this just like the rest of us K seres geeks Certainly the rod ratio and block/crank stiffness would allow far higher revs if cam profiles allowed. I remember reading about a fella who started building a k8 that was going to have a 12k redline... but he gave up due to cam costs etc. Most who race them anywhere after 8k rpm run external pumps. There is also this, one of my most watched vids. Fuck me this car sounds so angry and I do love it so...

This morning we met up with a older fella who had got in contact with me via Oldschool. He has a Sunbeam imp. Very tidy little car fitted with a later Talbot 930 engine . Took it for a spin. First time I have driven an Imp since Hannah had hers in 2002. I had forgotten how fun they are to drive and its was just the inspiration I needed to crack on with finishing my project...

I moved the shell onto the hoist and removed the last bits of rot, tiny bits around the front arch.. Work then continued on the cooling circuit. I need to get the pipes from the engine up to the front. Most people with Imps doing a front radiator conversion either run the pipes inside (too hot), under the gear change in the centre tunnel (I want to keep that easily accessible and to do it properly without having pipes below the floor line I'd still need to make some tunnels to close over) or they use the existing heater hoses (too small). The setup in the race car was like this... Fine for a race car but way too hot and in the way for a road car. I have had the intention of fabricating a separate tunnel to house the pipes ever since getting the race car. This is because if I was to run the pipes inside no matter what I try and do to insulate them there will be a fair bit of heat escaping into the cabin, plus they'll take up more room. With a tunnel the heat can instead radiate out into the airflow there should be very little transfer into the cabin. They'll take up less room and with a simple false floor above the tunnel in the front the passenger should not even know.... Plus any leaks go to the ground, the pipes can be easily attended to and the well.. it just seems a neat way to do it So I started by chopping down the removable cover (covers where the brake pedal mount would be on a l/h drive car) so I can weld it back in for a neater stiffer area. Then I marked out some lines and started cutting away... Then I cut and folded some tunnel sections up and welded them in. I have tried to keep the curves as gentle as possible without encroaching too far into the footwell. I had to make sure the pipes would be clear of the front suspension arc. Meanwhille Hannah kept busy stripping useful parts out of the racecar shell... I cut more bits out, formed more tunnel sections and ended up with a lovely clear tunnel front to back... I now need to fit the rear seat in and see how I can avoid passengers getting a hot bum. I'm not sure how close it sits to the metal base. I might just have to wrap the pipes and make some heat shields as i can box it lower due to the rear swing arm mounting point box section. I'll also add a bracing section near the front across the floor where the new pipe tunnel has potentially created a 'side impact crumple zone' or something.. Then its seat mounting time. Then paint prep!!!! That will be where things start to get very, very, very tricky! What colour? I have my mind on a on a few different light blues and even some light greens. Decisions...

Sounds great eh. Just a 2.0 litre too. Similar cam profile to the klze though.

RE; the throttle cable pulley. I worked back from my pedal. I worked out how much cable that pulled, after having extended its arm to pull as much as possible. I think it was something like 40mm. Then I machined a round pulley the appropriate diameter which opened 90 degrees with 40mm of pull. But as you know from the thread it was too linear. So I just offset the centre and set it so roughly the first 25mm of pull only opened the throttle 1/3rd or what ever. It was pretty simple ruler, compass and 3.14 stuff really. Worked a treat. Damn I'm still so tempted to put a V6 in my wagon...especially after listening to my mates car here....

whats the spacer look like? I might have a spare you can have. But yeah- make one from chopping board or wood will be fine too. Use heart Rimu. It has a lovely dense grain that looks great in nice varnish...

I changed to extra bins around the idle through to midrange areas because it was where I would and did notice the most differences. Then from about 4000 upwards I spread them apart further. Ditto for the Vac side of the tables. If this is what you mean?

I would have to quip in and say that any 'real tuner' who is worth is salt should be able to tune a car with MS. The tuning program, Tunerstudio, is such a piece of piss to use and it would be very easy to make the required changes needed to various tables or other settings whilst the car is on a rolling road. But I think the problem is that often the very same people who 'go budget' and fit an MS are the same people who cut corners and install it terribly and the tuner may well end up going in circles because of the poor installation- which shouldnt be the case with off the shelf plug'n'play models.

Problem solved. Lets us know how you get on.... https://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/used-cars/vauxhall/auction-1839456347.htm?rsqid=7a0bfe554c7145dc803f05e438d9bfd0

So they tell lies!!!! Still- probably a heck load more than standard Imp engine. I can always fit a Ramflo to add on 20bhp.

Ahhh yes... But that would give the game away that it is indeed a supercar with the 69 bhp power of a mighty A12 at its disposal. It's all about the sleeper...

In between working on a very sweet little Chevette with a Mazda 12A I have I have been whittling away on the Imp radiator placement, fan mounting and shrouding. What started off as simple ideas turned into more complex shapes as I wanted to make it all easy to take apart for servicing, plus be super strong. Its now very beefy up front and those mount points aint gonna move a bit. The radiator mounts, fan mount and exit point and shroud have so many folded over edges that its all really nice and stiff. To start with I lobbed a hefty chunk of RHS connecting the front rails and welded to the front suspension bracket points... Then I did some CAD work and started building up a radiator support panel.. This was made so much easier by our new tool- a guillotine we bought and picked up from my Uncle when we got our new lathe from him. I will never miss making long cuts with a cutting disc and all the associated dust mask, googles, ear protectors etc. Its made in England by Pictorex, is originally for paper but good enough to do 1.2mm steel so ideal for most car work.. Once the radiator mount was made I had to sort out where the ventilation system was going to get it air from. I had cut the hole in the front large enough to allow for an extra pick up. I built a tapered box behind it and angled it take the original hose ducting, making sure it was ot going to foul either the headlight or the fan shroud later on... I went to the local radiator place for a bleed nipple and drain tap that I was going to solder in myself. He said he could fit them while I was shopping and so he did, then cleaning it and pressure testing it all for only $30. Awesome. I'll go back there once I worked out pipe placement. I had cut a hole in the support panel so I can drain the coolant out the front.. Then onto into the fan and shroud. I wanted it to flow air through well when the fan was not on so made side supports with holes and little stainless hinge bars... These were welded to the fan frame like so... Mounted in place with alloy flaps hung on those bars. I tested them by blocking the radiator intake with a well fitting piece of hardboard and firing up the fan in reverse... Works really well. Happy with that. So I started framing the outlet hole. I added a new Lada Niva tandem master cylinder in position so to make sure I would build around it to suit. The M/C was given to me by good 'ol @NickJ ( I owes ya!) and he gave me the newspaper that the box came wrapped in which had these two likely looking Russian characters on it... Framing the hole.. Then I had a point to mount the shroud to. I welded the shroud on the inside of the joins so it cleaned up nicely. I made it as swoopy/smooth flowing as possible to make the air flow out cleanly (again... most likely getting a bit carried away a bit.. but its is fun this ). It can be removed easily, two screws, without moving the tank and then the fan with its shroud can come out, two screws. Then the radiator. So to finish this lot I need to swap the top inlet position on the radiator to the other side and add a baffle on the opposite side. Given how cheap and friendly that 'Rad' fella was I'll go back there... I reckon if I touch it with my current unsuitable gas torch I'll probably end up melting all the solder away from everything! With that done I can add the channel I am planning to run the pipes under the car but out of harms way. Then I'll make some seat mounting points for the MX5 seats now spare from the Viva.

I'd have thought that front wings should not be too hard to find here. I'll keep a look out up this way. Same goes for some decent enough arch sections for the rear. Not that hard to let in either as the steel is good on Vivas and that HC arch shape holds well.

Personally I'd not be doing that. It'll end up looking like every other car out there with bolt on arches because 'it was the easiest thing to do'... I reckon one of the coolest features of the HC line of Vivas are the standard arches. The are a defining feature of the side profile with the way they swoop back, making the car look like its going fast when its just standing still (an important feature when you only have 50bhp...) Other cars out there would give up there 'better engines' to have arches like the HC. They have a sweet shape about them and come already bulging in a way that aching to get filled with wide wheels. In fact the HC is the same width hub face to hub face as the HB but the body grew wider- a lot of that is in those arches. Make the most of those sweet things and enjoy that shape! Some inspiration for you. I realise its a coupe and has big wheels but I have always loved this car and the way the arch shape ties in so well..

Just quipping in here to say that it looks like the weather might be a bit shit on Sunday. I am a fair weather person so wont come along if its yucky. Jobs to do in workshop instead. @ynot you too better be careful if its raining or you'll be likely to come back to what was a Fiat but is now a pile of oxide.... Anyway- if sunny I'm there!!!

The answer my friend..is blowing in his name.

Yay- I'm hoping Shep will come along in his WW2 dodge truck. @Slacker_Sam. you and your dad will come along in your Triumphs yeah? You wont be put off by Steve having a shiny mk1 there now will you @sidewaysickness go easy on Sat night so you can make it along for a restorative coffee. Can you change the title on home page as I dont have mod powers. What happened to jason and his Porsche 924 turbo- he doesnt seem to be on OS anymore? @Jason0 Doesnt work now? @ThePog come along please darling and lets talk end of world vehicles. @nzvohc @avengertiger You both keen? Could you contact Bruce and Rex about the show? Dave- bring an Avenger!!!!

90 doesnt seem overly hot.. but that's if it did get that high?... Are you sure that your temp gauge reads accurately - it may well be that the sender and gauge dont match and as the heat goes up the gauge reads disproportionately too high?