84_S12

Do a skid

Never mind chaps looks like clearance is an issue after a test fit anyway Thanks Ryan

I notice they are quite oxidised. What is the best process to get these cleaned and looking newish again? I have done bit of research and it seems that shot peening is probably the best option in terms of keeping the dark natural magnesium finish. I would be reluctant to paint them if they can look mint in natural metal finish... Any thoughts? As in from this: To this: Elite wheels is just around the corner from work, but I guess that any metal finisher would be able to do this ay

Stoked for you Waimaks lol SO by rights I should be able to get longer wheel studs and run spacers if I want them to sit further out...or is that dumb/illegal?

Orion: So that tells me my car will accept 15"x8" wheels with +30 offset front and rear correct? Kyteler - My wheels are the one piece Enkei (Original factory option) As for lowering - I'm reluctant to do so until I can afford to overcome the negative rear camber it would induce (I want to get as close as possible to 0° static camber) as it is bad enough already with spring sag lol. Yes I know I have a slow leak On a side note: Does anyone know of these hub centres lying around somewhere? The car only came with 3. Could be handy to have if I decide to sell the existing set of wheels...

FWIW, these are my old wheels, I tried them on my S12 and the only thing that stopped them from being usable was the 215/65 tyres I had on them. With some 185 or 195's in a lower profile they would likely be fine and dandy. As he mentions in the listing, they fit perfectly fine on my old 910 with the 215/65's on them. I have a picture somewhere of them on the 910 and maybe one of them on the 12, despite the rubber vs. strut I really wanted the 15x7 as have 14x6 Enkei Meshies st the mo and wanted to go a lil larger as they look like roller skate wheels with the lower profile 185s on. Did they look stupid small on yours?

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=144439382 Saw these. At this price I would be gutted to not snap them up if they could work... any advice? As far as I'm aware factory S13 rims are 16(?)x6.5 35 offset. Could be wrong etc

If your motorbike is not RWD, you're facing the wrong way But seriously now, why not just buy a motorbike??

Would the 12 be out of place?

Take it off and chuck it on a bonfire?

Build a crate ya lazy cunt

They would probably be ok if you DON'T want brake cooling or have a ducted braking system Also, whichever choice you make, I would look into filling your tyres with nitrogen if you are pushing tyres hard as they will maintain more stable pressures (Nitrogen's static pressure changes very little relative to temperature, at least compared to compressed air)

Carbon coking in the cylinder will also contibute to a higher c/r, to the extent that it can even mask the symptoms of bad rings... Was it you talking about detonation in another thread as well? Because carbon will also cause hot spots in the combustion chamber that are BOUND to cause pre-detonation as they near the flash point of the fuel. Either way I would definitely be running the highest octane fuel you can buy ie BP Ultimate or Optimax 98 just for piece of mind, as retarding your timing will bring about it's own problems.

vee mount/ducted intercooler setup It doesn't have to be held on the front bumper with cable ties lol

I'll be there, just repping in the carpark though not in show Besides, some might argue that 84 is not OS...

Most likely will, car is a bit off show quality yet though lol

I think your engine must be in upside down? Can't see any other explanation...

+1 I would have though Austin Allegro 1750cc (?) would be the go? Stay British!

+1 CRC overnight works wonders Your engine will always vibrate if you warp the pulley even the slightest so be very wary of bashing it around. Also, too much shock could crack the crankshaft so be careful there too.

There is a MASSIVE temperature differential between 450°C (An average temp of a turbo/exhaust manifold) and 80°C (Err 370° Kelvin for that matter) so transferring that heat to a heat exchanger as opposed to leaving it in the turbo core is almost a requirement if you want your oil to live for any length of time at all, bearing in mind that the oil is protecting your engine, not just the turbo. Also, oil blow-by should be reduced significantly if the core has additional cooling

Expect to change the oil more often if you leave them off as it will be doing all of the cooling. Or get an oil cooler... Personally I would think it unwise to not want to cool your turbo, considering the hotter it gets, the more heat it transfers to the air charge. Not to mention all of the problems associated with core failure...

Ive always wanted to do that. Duck Call ftmfw

HOT DAMN how much for the watties?

ET is 15 degrees BTDC I think CA20E is 10 degrees BTDC so assuming the timing is conservative for the turbo engine, I'd go with 10 degrees...

I'm pretty sure they specialise in tonneaus and boat covers.