ThePog

There are gears now, after a fair few evenings involving head scratching. It was pretty straightforward really, I just reinstalled the Dyna shift mech, remounted some pivot stuff, extended some linkages, bent some others, and made some missing bits. There is a lot of adjustment there so i can mess with the lever throws, it feels pretty good already. Also the low range lever linkage is 75% there, the last pic shows its position on the floor beside the drivers leg. I need to cut a bit more floor and move the mount over about 25mm so its in the right spot. Once finalised I can connect it to the rest of the lever mech. O and there is a handbrake now as well. Also the interior stuff at the front all fits with no mods at all, this is good. It has a pretty skanky bench seat + drivers seat at the front, I will probably end up with a two singles although I will need to find seats that have a very skinny back and small hinge mech.

Look what arrived, looks like @Mof gets a gobby.

Shit it even looks like it might fit... I am sure I can come up with something.

So yea, knocking it out like a schoolboy. I have a cert man now, very excited. Bent some laser cut profiles and glued them together Tacked the xmember on for positioning purposes Sealed up where I cut the old xmember out so water didn't sit in there and rust it Looks strong enough, it 5mm plate. Tacked in place, I will weld it with the chassis turned so I get a nice weld all around. Then time to replace the temporary front mounts Cut off the old mounts for reuse. Glued some shit together. Might yet plate either side for extra strengths, it is probably strong enough though. The old mount is welded to 65 x 5mm box section, so all of the weight is going through the weld. There is a fat bead but still. Mounted the clutch line. Does anyone know the logic behind the secondary bleed that comes out of this block? I would have thought it was unnecessary. I will fit something but I am guessing it needs to be higher than the clutch master...? I pilfered all the brake and clutch stuff off the dyna chassis, and have had success straightening out the lines with a vice, then rebending where needed. I am using rivnuts into the chassis or existing mount points if convenient. Had to drop the power steering pump 50mm to clear some vital cab related stuff, just made an adapter plate. I might brace it up a bit. Modded the adjuster plate to match the 50mm drop. Modded the throttle cable mount as this is literally all it needed to hook up the Dyna cable setup. My solution for the steering is pretty much sorted and been ok'd, I just need to set up the original box and check the bump steer limits, then set up the new system and check again. I want to fix the castor first though as this will have a slight effect on things. I measured the lift accurately with the cab on and it is a fraction over 2". This means that drop boxes are pretty much overkill and will mean more castor than factory, so i have ordered some castor correction bushes which should bring it back to factory spec. The pitman arm is currently getting modified to suit my new tierod end, the boys were disconcertingly vague about the possible cost of this. Next I will sort the brake and fuel lines, this should be piss easy. The fuel lines need to be 570mm shorter, but i may just route them with a bit more flexi. Handbrake will be making up a pivot bracket to connect the two cables and correct the pull ratios, this should also be trivial. Hopefully have sorted an engine, I just need to find a couple of hundy more $$ from somewhere. No doubt I can just sell dick pics to desperate fembots, again trivial. Also I bought a hilux rear driveshaft. PCD of the mounts is very close to the Safari front shaft ones. It has a hangar bearing so I will make a chassis mount and get it shortened so it can mount the front shaft. That will do for now.

I also have the gearbox for the 2y, it has side shift levers so it lends itself to a column shift setup. The engine came out of a dyna, but I have the same engine in my townace ute which is quite small. Plus I have the driveshaft etc. The townace is no rocketship but it gets along ok. It is pretty low tech compared to some options, but this is probably a benefit in my book. Edit, I can take pics and measurements, pm me if you are interested.

I have an 1.8 2y with carb etc, head is off and the block looks ok, the original head is stuffed but I have a spare and a gasket set for it. It's done 160kms.let me know if your interested...

Funnily enough I watched this a couple of days ago;

Stop putting ideas into my head bitches.

For sure the potential is all there, it just looked so right from that first fit up, it matched what I had in my head almost perfectly.

It is a scratch built because I am messing with the steering stuff. The to do list I have is mostly made up of relativity simple things, even if there are a lot of them, but the steering box reposition and chassis mods associated definitely put it in that category.

We move shit around and install it. The stuff is mostly big and unwieldy and I have a big box of tools I need to take. There is a long convoluted justification involving being unable to find a decent replacement for my current work vehicle, but this is tedious and mostly unbelievable so I won't bother. The real reason is that I think it will be cool and I am only happy in myself when I have a nice big chunk of interesting stuff to do that isn't work.

It's a work truck mostly, but when I build a cabin for the back it will be an expedition vehicle, and when society breaks down it will be used to make armed raids on fuel dumps. Mostly I just think it will be fucking awesome.

Please stop.

Yea talked to a wreckers in dunners a few days ago, need to chase them to see what he has found, that was about the 5th place I called and the most likely sounding...

Yea I have some pics of that. I did wonder about a 1uz, but as this is intended to work after the zombie apocalypse/mass coronal ejection I preferred a donk with no real electrical requirements. Edit; reply was to the one above. I have been fantasizing about a big Cummins, but I figured the td42 was plentiful and relatively cheap.

Not been on here much at all for a few months, mostly cos an unnamed mod changed one of my posts to make me look like even more of a cunt than I actually am without indicating that they had done so, this gave me a complete sense of humour failure so I lost quite a lot of interest. I guess I am over it now but we will see how things go.... Anyway I have been up to a bit of stuff in the absent months, I will let the pics mostly do the talking. Cost 3x boxes of beer White dust is from fingerprinting, was stolen and recovered.. Fitted pretty nice with minimal sheetmetal cutting Engine is seized, need to find another, but will use this to set up the mounts. Made a removable subframe for the rear and mid body mounts Later model safari steering box, this might be a sticking point but i have a plan that has been agreed with the cert man in principle. The box is rotated forward from the original position, the tie rod position is exactly the same though Front body mounts and steering box mount are all tied in. I have a design for this in CAD which looks pretty good. Fitted the Safari clutch booster in there with relative ease Engine is just propped there, I have moved it back 570mm to help with weight distribution/radiator clearance/etc. It also means I can use a SWB rear driveshaft. Gear linkage might be fun, although apparently the gearbox in a Condor/Atlas with the FD42 has the same box housing, the top plate and gearshift mech should respectively bolt on/be able to be modded to fit. Took it to a weighbridge to check axle loadings, 1755kg all up, 1130kg on the front. Axle ratings are 1500kg front and 1800 rear so should be good to go. The weighbridge was reading 65kg heavier by the time we were done so this is probably worst case. GVM of the Safari was 2505kg, so will be racecar. There is a lot to do yet, as I said the engine is seized so need to find another + turbo to put on it. Build the front cab mount and steering mount, engine and gearbox mounts Need to think how to build the front driveshaft, probably a shorty shaft to a frame mounted carrier, then use the standard front axle. Need to find FD42 gearbox linkage Probably needs new tyres and at least one more rim for a spare Need adjustable panhards and adjustable rear lower trailing arms to get the axles in a better position. It had a 2" lift that translates to about a 3.5" lift with the current weight, so axles are a bit off to one side and the rear will need rotating so the driveshaft flanges are parallel. Need to airbag the rear for load leveling. Need to convert the AC pump to continuous air for the airbags and whatever else Will need to build a deck with big ass drawers underneath for my tools. Will probably will have a budget hoist of some variety, maybe just an arm with a chain block. Electrical will be a nightmare as the cab is 12v and the chassis is 24v, need to talk to an auto sparky to discuss my ideas. Still need to 100% make sure that my cert guy will be able to take it on, there is no one in Nelson with 1D unfortunately. Piece of piss really.

I have the constructors handbook, and it says you cannot modify a pitman arm by heating/welding etc. Can you recut the tierod taper so the taper has swapped sides? The arm and steering box is off a y61 Safari and is much chunkier than the original Y60. If the taper is cut to a larger diameter spec, there will still be a larger cross section of material than the Y60 one...TIA

Best bet is a 12v compressor fridge, or thermoelectric if you don't care too much about power usage; https://www.rvworldstore.co.nz/appliances/fridges/12v-24v-fridges?dir=asc&gclid=CjwKCAiAxJPVBRB4EiwAsCA4aYI8mtIhYPTt-jbYq0z9B0vkPVLgaLc4uOIjZu2B4uwHuk7u-14IGRoCfyUQAvD_BwE&order=price

@yoeddynz, I am almost certainly going to be doing a firewood mission on Saturday, if i come at all it will be later in the day. You are welcome to use my bbq, tho it is not super big and needs wood.

This is Alex, there is no possible way this is not some shitty rusty thing from the land of the long black oil leak.

@yoeddynz I probably will be there, maybe not with the bus tho as I am fairly busy these days without @sidewaysickness to be my lil bitch. I will consult my astrology chart.

Fuck I thought i had better give an update on this as it has been a while. I have tidied up a few things but basically we have been smashing the fuck out of this nearly every weekend over the summer, even if it is just off to Rabbit Island for the day. Overnighters we generally keep it to 3 nights, the waste tank gets full about then and we run out of fresh water. It is also used when the brats have sleepovers or if we have visitors staying... The only issue worthy of note is that a bearing in the gearbox shat itself the week before we were due to go over to Ligar bay over xmas. There was a really ugly noise under load that clearly was not going to fix itself, so on the Tuesday I dropped the box out and started stripping it. Dropping it was piss easy, there is heaps of room under there. The spigot bearing was worn to nothing and I thought that might be it, but when I took the front plate off and most of the secondary shaft front bearing fell out. I realised i didn't have enough kit to do it properly, so the next day I dropped it at the local garage. He said that he would see what he could do but don't hold my breath. Then he rang me at 10am the next day saying it was all good to go - fucking sweet! I slapped it in on the Thursday and Friday we took off over the Takaka hill. All went well and it is now much quieter to drive which is a bonus. The only hiccup was when we stopped in Takaka - I went to start it again and there was a verry loud fizzing sound and it went dead. I found that I probably had not tightened the earth strap to the starter, tightened it up and was good to go 5 mins later. No pics at all sorry as I was fully on a fucking mission. However I have done some extra stuff; I added a bike rack, this works perfectly, the arms or the whole thing is removable. You can also see my bonus LED tailights - fitted cos the old trailer lamps kept shitting themselves regularly. We also changed the sleeping arrangements a bit as we needed to separate the kids bit more. What was the second bunk is now box storage, then I made a removable bunk at the front, this works well. This ally bits at the sides are removable. The mattress fits on there perfectly. Unfortunately our kids are now both a bit too tall to fit, so we bought a tent for them. The bunks are pretty much emergency sleeping now. I will probably do another rearrangement to make it more viable for both of them to sleep in there. I also made this mint wee table that is articulated. This is perfect for playing cards on when the seats are swung around. We seem to do a lot of card playing, either Presidents and Arseholes or Euchre... I have done a bit of other shit, but nothing really worth noting. It is just about the perfect object actually, not to big that a day trip is a hassle, cosy but not crowded. The bed is really comfy too, I sleep better in this than I do at home...

It looks all analog so no harm in trying, but yea h4nd knows all. Buy a solder sucker though, they are essential. https://trademe.co.nz/1508314633

Cheers, even my wife liked the look of it, she usually tuts when I show her my latest madness. I have now added a couple of grab handles and cleaned the welds. I will sort the steam wand today if I get a chance..

Unfortunately I am unlikely to come to wagnats, or in my case busnats. I should call my bus 'Buster Nut'