Raizer

I'm guessing open diff, clutch just unloads one axle letting it slip? That doesn't seem right though lol

Made a loom @MopedNZ put me on to 1212 batteries, tiny little things but should keep indicators etc happy at least. Fitted the new blank covers to the engine Engine back in Much better looking I think! @Shakotom brought down some SS tube and a few bends, attempting to make my own exhaust, never welded SS so this should be interesting to say the least Might need to call in someone with a bit more skill to help out with making a new rear brake lever though, the CRF footpeg mount doesn't leave much room to run a low pipe!

Signed for by: "under the matt" Think I've got just about everything I need now, besides a seat and waiting to get my ignition back from the locksmith.

Doing my head in having to drop the engine to do anything electrical at all! Simon @UTERUS Sparky hooked me up with the remains of his old PAL, so I'm recycling it's loom into this. Looks like the exhaust is going to be a prick, really don't want to go high pipe so am going to have to make something work /who needs ground clearance?

That's actually damn impressive for a Razz! They have a single speed chain drive gear set up rather than CVT, it's why a lot of people used to swap Jog engines into the Razz. A good 70cc kit, some custom porting to the cylinder and cases and a decent pipe/variator/CDI/carb combo can get these Suzuki's up to over 110k on the flat, the crank is the main limitation as there's no uprated aftermarket options for them.

Pipes about $260 and I'm doing the CDI units for about $160. Or from memory $350 and $220 from a place in Auckland... /Not that I'm trying to sell Clint anything, just having played with my middy's AZ and my own Let's I know the results are worth it, even with the stock cylinder I was able to get 80k+ out of mine with just pipe, CDI and variator.

Or add a decent pipe and a CDI to really get it going lol.

Might try and lift the front of the plate a bit yet. Rugged but solid oil cooler mounting. Stupidly tight frame, can't even get at pretty much anything without taking the engine out first. Cooler and coil mounted, need to mount the engine before shortening the HT lead and hooking up the oil lines. Replaced the floppy rubber bar mounts with 3mm steel, much better. NZ customs have held a pile of parts I've got coming for this from Japan, bet they've assumed it's for my business rather than personal use. Oh and UPS has another box of parts for it from Sandwich in the UK, so far it's been to 4 places in the UK, 2 in Germany, Shenzhen China and then spent 7 hours getting cleared by customs in Changi before the tracking changed to "We were unable to load the package on the plane as scheduled"

Might have to do something with the sprockets etc!

Exhaust came, don't like it so will use a couple bits of it and just make my own Terrible crush bend FTL. Got some levers, bit big but have an idea to fix that @GuyWithAviators said to use lube and heat to remove the stock slide throttle, so after spraying a large amount of CRC all around it I fired up the gas torch. He was right, it burnt out old glue or something exposing the screw that held it on. Still wouldn't come right off though, but some vice action and brute force got it off. Actually extended the bars about 20mm each side to fit the grips etc.

Slotted the holes in the black intake, shits tight but it's in there

Probably big $$, wouldn't mind a Gyro Up if one came about for the right money. A brand new Gyro X is about NZ$3000 in Japan.

Fired up the tig and rejoined the 2 skins and also added in a brace to the trimmed/hacked crush tube That'll do it Fits the patina look too imo. Next issue is the carb mounting, the included straight manifold fouls hard on the frame and just won't work Tried grinding the flange down but no dice. The black manifold from the carb kit with CNC carb spinner is close, but not quite putting the carb straight inline It all fits, but the carb is hard against the frame. Going to attempt to slot it a bit to gain a few degrees, fingers crossed! Lol kinda glad I didn't go for the 155HO engine I was getting, it would be a good 30mm longer again!

Managed to find a couple hours this arvo to have a bit of a play with this thing. Washed, cut then polished In the areas where the paint has been covered the last few decades it's a super metallic shiny 70's blue! Attempted to do a conversion Didn't have as much ring or ding as desired though, so it was time to attempt to fit the new engine. Very tight, but it's in! Then I noticed something with the clutch No way that is going to work, cable mount fouls the frame and the lever fouls both the frame and the engine mount bolt After looking at @BLIZZO's C50 pics for ages it dawned on me just how different the frames are, his is single skin and doesn't go much further than the engine mount bolt, whereas mine is double skin with the frame going right to the front and a crush tube between the outer skin and the engine. Wasn't much else to do but get chopping!

Tomorrow's (today) mission is to degrease and wash the frame, heavy cut and polish then fill the gap with the contents of one of those parcels Also grabbed a carb etc from my stock shelf lol There seems to have been a slight mix up at the factory, somehow this ended up cast on my factory replacement 49cc moped engine... Should be good for a laugh!

Ever since I got let loose on @BLIZZO's rusty trombone in Kawhia a while back I've been craving something with gears and wheelie pulling torque... Had been wanting to put a dirt bike 2t into something like an old Suzuki AC50, even lined up a cheap KTM 100 to donate it's engine but no cheap bikes popped up. Until @MopedNZ came across this old Honda CF50 in Gisborne on TM, I went and picked it up and after doing a bit of a deal with him it's ended up staying in my overcrowded shed. Gave it a few kicks, no spark and as I've got no interest in playing with 6v points systems I gave up trying to get it running. Instead I turned up attention to the paint, @Shakotom banned me from painting it so I've just been cutting it back with 1000 and 2000 wet paper Couple parcels arrived from one of my suppliers this morning, ones presold the other is "stock" Finally cleared the shed enough to get it on the lift this evening Engine fell out soon after

Bahaha!! $4k is nuts!!

Those look like CV carbs rather than flatslide?

Tubes? Should be able to run tubeless with your rims

It's pronounced "coaster"

Pest on, Plan B ftw

Grassman Scootercare will be open to reattach mufflers and QCR straight pipes mid way.

.75 to .80 is ideal hypo scooter swish too, this thing is going to move!! Full circle crank is the go for 70+cc scooter builds with read valves, but either way yours is going to be nuts

Still want to stuff a crankcase port engine crank, lowering the crankcase volume increases the primary compression and forces more air/fuel mix through the transfers and boost ports. /Your shaping will likely more than overcome any negative effect from the slight decrease in primary comp. //Giz a ride!