tortron

Does the fuel pump run when key is in start/crank pos. The oil switch is supposed to be connected up to the fuel pump. The idea being that if the car is upside down there's no oil pressure and fuel is cut. There is a bypass so that when car is cranking I think the fuel pump works in order to start. Then the wiring from the oil switch is supposed to take over. You may have one of the few cars this was correctly wired up in? Try hardwire the fuel pump maybe to check

Con1 on left sitting in drivers seat Orange clip Wires left to right at top are red black stripe. Empty. Brown. Black. Pink. Brown red stripe Con 2 in middle Blue clip Wires left to right at the top Grey, grey,brown white stripe, brown white stripe. Green. Tan Con 3 right hand side pos. Orange clip Wires at top. Empty. Black white stripe. Empty. Brown yellow stripe. Empty. Empty.. My Ute starts and drives with no cluster

Yup yup But it should run without the instrument cluster at all

Was Gona get a tank bag, but realised I have more than enough junk laying around to put something together for free. Vintage Kathmandu bumbag pack No arm straps to flap about like a backpack. Waist strap goes nicely around the tank and frame Infront of the engine mount. Cut the hanging loop thing in half and made it two small loop to attach another strap which goes around the headstock Has multiple tightening down straps which work perfectly in use as a tank bag Still usable as a bumbag pack so I can take it off the bike for hiking around. Will also work as a tail bag if wanted. Undo the headstock strap and I can move it down to fill the fuel up. Only thing missing is a clear pouch for maps/pace notes. Will figure out something for that.

I do t think the dates will work for me, but if they do il be there

That's very Chur of you. I have some mild steel bends left over from Morrie exhaust, so am set for that/have a mig so stainless is a bit wasted on me

Think I will do the exhaust something like this. Dr200 header tucks in the best to avoid burning stuff. Muffler can be shortened a little (I have a 2" Coby here but it's so heavy) will probably pop a dB killer thing in the end of it. Will make a rear pipe out of 38mm bends. Should be able to clear the panniers, shock, tyre, and pillion this way. Have only found one pic of a gn125 with high scrambler exhaust, no one seems to bother changing the header at all. Having no panniers or pillion would make it easier Muffler is via @UTERUS so hopefully the bike doesn't catch on fire now

Instructions for my one say you can use any charger as long as it supplies a constant charge (doesn't increase as the battery charges)

Shimmed the carb needle to a half notch and have gone back to standard hot plug as on 98 I get no issues. Might run two cdi's. Can get them to retard the timing by putting different caps in there. Then flick a switch for low octane running. No real reason for this other than I think it's neat and "adventury". Could slot the stator and just set it up for 91 permanently

Safari is an African name So in the same vein Victoria falls's name is Mosi-oa-Tunya, the ' Smoke that Thunders

Is it from a Cedric? (The badge)

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Anyway to see if it's flagged for anything? Says no on the carjam report, but does a re Rego check count the same as an import flag?

So back to this Morrie I have In its history report it it was dereg in 2014. It had a pre registration check in 2016. It has a vin plate on it, I assume from that check. Will I need to go through pre registration check again? Or is the vin still good? There's no record of it having any further reg inspection that I can find anywhere, I couldn't find it on ltsa flagged vehicle page (tho it only had one Morris in it flagged for flood damage). Doesn't say failed inspection in the carjam report Is there any way I can find out if it did go through an inspection and if it did fail on anything? There's plenty of information on importing and flagging an American car, but nothing for re-registering a car already here.

You need to output between 13-14v to keep it happy I believe. Claims a shelf life of 12 months so good for bikes you don't ride. Had just enough juice in it out of the box to start me up and have been riding around the last few days no worries. I believe it only needs about a 5 min ride to recharge

Dont fret, they are so cheap you can get one too!

Banged on the gt200 rear wheel along with shinko golden boy sr244 Wow Wasn't expecting such a difference. Does 80 in 3rd now, 5th is more like an overdrive, but will sit at around 105-110 comfortably. There's some more top speed but there's too many slow cars about to test. Feels like it has more power it absolutely sings through the revs. It must be that the rim and tyre are lighter than the original 16". Gets to, and likes being at red line alot more than before. Feels more like a farm spec DR than a city cruiser inspired tootler Has raised the bum up a little too, getting that triangle parallel to the ground seems to be key in improving looks.

ADVGN TV is on the air

Did some Gtech runs today. The readings are always not right, I don't think I'm now producing 19kw. So looking at the footage 0-100 was 27 seconds on the 125 cylinder over a couple runs And is now 23 seconds over a couple runs on the 150

Like this, I curled some tabs over for the battery strap. If I keep it here I think I will use the original rubber isolators too

UV rated clear coat over the top they reckon. I've only ever had glass lamps tho

Removed lead acid battery, overflow, battery tray, and tool box Made new tray. Drilled some holes in it for lightness. Used original battery strap, installed with lithium battery. Forgot to take a pic of it while out. Didn't think about it too much as I will probably update it after running new exhaust. I want to make the seat removable and have a storage under it too, so will probably move all the loom and stuff too. Will probably have to chop up the rear guard etc.

The old L200 ones don't do anything anyways, my clubsport doesn't have one at all

Delete it