tortron

its measuring the pulses going to the distributor it converts these to 4's,6's or 8's (cylinders in the engine) to find how many revolutions are occuring

Chapter XVI Painting the car at home To renovate the old car is not the difficult task that most folks imagine. It is not possible, of course to give it that wonderful finish which the professional painter is able to do, but it is possible to improve it almost beyond recognition. Few things reduce a car's value more than shabby paintwork, and it is no exaggeration to say that a car's value can be increased by 25percent. by painting it at home. The first stage The first stage of the renovating process is the worst, but it is soon over. I refer to the necessity of cleaning every square inch of the body, chassis, axles and wheels. When you do this you will be surprised to find how many parts you have never cleaned before, no matter how well you have done the work in the past. Wash the car all over with water containing just a trace of paraffin oil, using neat paraffin for the more inaccessible places. It pays to buy one or two cheap brushes for this purpose. Every atom of dirt must be removed. When the car is clean and dry, the real work of painting may be begun. But the new colour should not be added to the surface of the old, since this will be glossy in places and dull in others. The whole surface must be equal in this respect, and it should be dull. So set to work with a many times folded flannel, with pumice stone powder and water, to rub off all the old varnish. Do this with a circular motion, a bit at a time. ..... etc,

coker tyres

have a 1920's road users manual which goes in depth on how to wash a car with paraffin

go to the good bike place brake/clutch place would make them also

what carb do you have, same manual has how to tune every carb known to man - also, 9 out of 10 carb problems are electical

3. Build a filter unit to suit the car. The simplest and very effective design is to sandwich a paper filter element between two metal plates. One plate is drilled with the appropriate size of air inlet hole and, if necessary bolt holes for flange mounting. The second plate is simply drilled with the hole for the existing centre air filter bolt or to take long bolts from the carb flange. Whatever arrangement is practical, ensure that there are no leaks between the filter and the carb intake and avoid sharp turns in the air path. The edges of the flanges and plates should be blunted or even better, radiused.

1950's tuning for performance manual recomends 1 sheet of aluminium 2xflatpanel/those circular ones air filters another sheet of aluminum bolts, washers and wingnuts hole saw and drill combine all of the above for custom carb aplications

its about $30 to get pretty much anything you want made- with outer case made up so talk them down from there

^ instrument panel is now smoothed out and in primer have just been going through the box of parts and sorting them into things to be painted (and what colour) and things to polish thinking of polishing up the alloy rear light bodies (originally body colour) as i like shiny thing and it should look good against the black body. cleaned up the glass brake lights too - they were quite dirty inside, so this should make them a hell of alot more visible

go to a cycle shop and get them to solder one up for you

do it outside/shade tree serious - mine came up fair tidy

have heard of this piston set up in bikes tho - not clowncars

totally have. have mounted an engine to the back of my 1930's phillips - looks sweet so will be flicking the frame

yes make these inside one sits in gutter - is just a bit of flat metal outside goes on the outside of gutter/door frame bolt them together (rubber or leather inbetween so you dont wreck the paint) your pal Tortron

probably the bulb these are 6v systems yea the rear light is also a numberplate light so should come on - also yours is not mounted in the stock position

will come from the head economy on cold starts not ideal for performance (cold mornings are a bitch tho)

at about 40-50 mpg

so interior wise current is brown doors with chrome strip and brown headliner kick panels, b pillars, rear parcel tray and under rear seat are also trimmed in the original brown, carpets and wheel well covers are long gone, but were brown and creme respectively. steering column, handbrake and parcel tray under the dash are a sort of matt brown (should be nickle, but my car is poverty spec due to shortages at the time) which i do like due to the vintage feel the finish gives. The tray itself is a thick card with a gold painted finish on one side - i have some nice textured material in the same colour i was planning on covering the upperside with, although i think a padded tuckandroll matching the seats could work nicely if i paint or cover the otherside. The instrument panel and glovebox were originally painted gold - not sure if i want to repspray them gold, black, or even a dark red The sill covers were originally silver i was planning on repraying these silver again - along with the bracing in the boot. Not sure about the sill finishers (the bit you see from outside) - they would have been body colour, but you can get stainless ones so perhaps paint them too. (the fuel tank is painted silver and i plan on doing the torsion bars the same) Carpet I am torn between black carpet or a dark red carpet (i will be trimming the boot as well) It would be a dark red but im thinking that if i have the doors, seats and headlining red as well it could be like sitting inside a mouth , this also leads onto windlace/door seals - these come with a fabric cover (originally grey with green flecks) black or red. Will having them red be too much or will it make a nice contrast to a black painted interior Im pretty set on having the beading between the front + rear wings and body a dark red possibly this unless i can recolour some hints, tips, comments?

hang on - bubblegoose isnt who i thought he was for a minute wouldnt be applicable to such a newschool car (was thinking leverarm and leafspring set up)

there is a shock of a mini attached to the body and axle rather than just the leafspring

this is done on a datsun morrie to reduce axle tramp

to prevent static shocks also

dammit i ment generator

galvanic electrodes and some such