tortron

it soaks into the engine components after 60 years i would say theb&s oil is fine, perhaps more expensive than an oil brand brand... Also there is no real reason you cant run a modern oil, technology has come a long way since the 40s

Will that alloy sheet fit in from the bottom, probably not i guess

Edit. Supercheap sells penrite in 1 & 2.5l or go to repco, if they look at you funny ask for running in oil. They carry a different brand in 4l jugs

Supercheap sell monograde its often on special as well i use 30sae in the truck make sure to drop the sump and clean it out twice as often as you would change the filter

Got it sorted, thanks for the offer

yup. Not sure if the brass plug in the back of the head will come out. 60 years and id say its become one. I see you can get 12v solinoid valves, pretty neat

I used some on the trim of my rear seats (chaning piping colour to match the fronts) used vht pain i think went on well and stuck/bonded. Havnt used it on a large area tho. Id say it will be fine for a few years but will eventually wear through

They are called acorn nuts apparently - incase anyone searches in the future

http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/car-parts-accessories/vintage-parts/electrics/auction-616972545.htm late, but these are them

Flushed out the rear armstrong shocks. Turns out they are rebuilt units - can see the replacement plug on the rear side. This explains the good condition and being the only part of the car not leaking. Another giveaway is the gasket under the filler cap. They didnt punch any holes in it, makes topping up a bit hard. Haha topped up with fresh sae.30 & painted

Yea, im excited to see it through. The hope is to get morrie boffins taking a second look and the average joe assuming its standard

It stops my papers from blowing around will find its way onto this. Will set up the car like the original sharock supercharge kit (to keep up with those new peppy a series) Have most of the bits sorted, pulleys, flanges etc. The build of the car has changed since i first got it. Its now my interpretation of a coachbuilt (ala radford or whoever was making the black supercharged minis) or factory special edition. Going for period correct performance and comfort where ever possible. Things like Water pump cooled engine Engine porting light weight flywheel tidied wires high spec interior trim and sound deadening extra factory gauges wide wheels uprated suspension A tasteful touch of polished brass and alloy trying to avoid (or hide completely) any modern luxury. keep in mind only high end cars in the 50s had even a heater. So in post war england i have a super car

Did some further work today tapped the generator water gallery mount, then painted the fuel tank again, re fitted it with new stainless screws, then used new hardware to mount the boot trays. Little coach bolts. Looks good, but i dont recomend changing the rear ones from screws, they are exactly 1/2" too far away for my arm to reach

Phone pictures, have more indepth ones on my camera. Will dump more at some point. finished diff, hasnt leaked anymore so i must have sorted it. New brake lines and rebuilt brakes drilled the water gallery blank in the head. 1/2" all the way through for the probe, then 19/32" halfway to tap to a 3/8bsp fitting. Brass 3/8 male-male fitting has 1/2" machined out of the first 1/4" to match the step on the probe bulb. Fits wonderfully, hopefully the capillary hasnt been damaged in the last 4 years!

No pics as i cbf uploading from my tablet

Some og members may remember the bit of trouble i had with the alloy water gallery/generator mount. Its held on with 5 bolts. I snapped off the middle one flush then snapped off an easy out in there. I used knead it to seal the cover and this worked perfect, with the proviso that i would fix it propperly at a later date. Today i drilled it out. Colbolt drill bits cut through like butter, will retap when i get a 5/16 unf tap (iv only got unc for some reason). Also cleaned up the start of the thread on the offside shock arm (must have knocked the very start of the thread with something. I had the nut off with aspirations to dismantle and rebuild, turns out you need heat anf 5+ ton of pressure to pull the arm off, so i cancled that idea) Wont be putting a heater in just yet, so i machined out the heater take off on the pump so i can fit my temp sender in there. Il probably end up just putting a cap on this and drilling out the blank on the head to fit a brass male to male fitting. Just need to borrow a drill press for a few mins to get it in square. Also pulled out the fuel tank. The hammerite i used hasnt sticked very well in places, so will repaint and refit with new screws. In summary, waiting on a bunch more bits. Short list of work to do: Lowering blocks to go in diff, driveshaft & rear suspension to go in turn torsion bars down 2 notches to match rear uprated oil in armstrong shocks refit master cylinder and run lines to front and rear union New gaskets and seals throughout engine fit lightened flywheel fit clutch and gearbox fit water pump (i have all the "conversion" parts - you have to blank off where the lower radiator hose goes to the engine, then run a new hose and metal pipe to the pump. Im only missing the metal pipe. Will kindly ask a plumber to make a copper one. Clean, paint and refit under bonnet equipment - distributor, fuel pump etc thats roughly all i need to do....

Have put on 2 coats of por15 on the underside my package from bull motif came today so i have all my new suspension rubbers, fender welt, and a few other bits. They didnt mention the gaskets wernt in stock when i ordered. But a note in the package did. Not that impressed as i probably would have ordered from esm again if i knew that. Oh well, i was making a second order soon too as i have found some bits are missing

I have an amr500 supercharger sitting on the bench

Tapped the bottom axle locating hole and loctite'ed a bolt in there. The one was open to the half shaft, this should prevent any oil loss. I think that the other 3 will be fine with the rubber grommets. Ran the other rear brake line, and also the front offside line. Stripped down the rear cylinders and master cylinder and cleaned them out. They are looking good (were resleeved in stainless and rekitted when i first got the car). Have reassembled the rear brakes, i am even using beehive springs. There is still a seemingly endless list to do

Welded up the rust in the rear today. Also ran one side of the rear brake line. Took a while, but looks good. Have held the lines down with some original and now impossible to get brass zip ties. Hopefully there are some more in my spares for the other side. Got quoted about $400 for a set of lowering blocks for this. So it looks like my money will be going to the uk yet again. Plan on por15ing the entire underside floor tomorrow. Am unsure if i then want to put on some underseal. I have always stripped it off my cars and cursed whoever put it on. But with a good base and it all being fresh i can see yye benifits in cutting down on road noise. Il think about it, as i already have a dynamat type deadening, then under carpet stuff, then carpet. So its going to be alot quieter than it was when i was driving it (only had metal floors). Plenty to do, but progress is slowly building. Wanting to sell off my other vehicles and daily this again, seems a long way off, but once my ordered parts show up i should have it on all 4 and the sump+gearbox back in within a few days

$900 and i can have a set of extraxtors delivered to my door

http://www.totalplastics.co.nz/services.aspx did you look into the plastic chroming people?

Found some more rust in the body beneath the left hand rear spring eye. 3"x1" patch and that should be the last of it. Cleaning the undersides of cars is a horrid job. Exciting news!!!! I have now removed everysingle removable part of this car

Cleaning up the underside of my minor & found a bit of rust i have previously missed. So i am wanting to borrow a mig for an hour or so. (3"x1" patch, then reattach one of my seat rails) have everything ready to go, liquid renumeration will be returned with the welder in a timely order

Synopsis of rear suspension every bush collapsed All mounting/shackle pins rusted half through Shocks are surprisingly good and even have clean oil in them Leafsprings have some use in them yet Dif has been broken and welded back together (left hand side where it connects to the diff casing. I replaced the wheel bearing here when I got the car) the weld looks rough as but its on there straight enough. The original mounting pins for that side are awol and it looks like the smallest leak was dribbling out. Have put a 5/16" blanking grommet in to keep the dribble in. Otherwise pretty good. Diff is painted & all the usefull suspension parts are prepped. Will have to wait till my parcel arrives from the UK before shes on all four again however