tortron

The gasket on yhe lid wont affect anyyhing. Minors are a pain to bleed, you couldld try a gravity bleed - i got quite a bit of air out that way. Shoes are adjusted till they lock, then backed off a notch (do that before setting the handbrake) i yhink last time i rebuilt.my brakes i bled it twice took it for a poorly braked drive, then bled it again. Pedal should feel stiff right off the bat

Oil coated brillo pads are more correct. I pioe the idea of a single one

can get them exuk or america for cheap enough, i got a whole bunch of the brass duckbill lugs and knurled nuts for cheaper than one off trademe. Have tried to source cloth covered wires for everywhere possible, as anything else just looks silly. will connect exhaust and post a sound check. cbf rolling around on the ground today, so might set up the sound system

i have probably just failed to add a video. But I heard you boys like more doort! Twin carbs sucking away, wheel exit extractors, dirty old sidevalve fired right up once i restricted the flow a little. That filter came with the carbs, its fugly. Its a real shame one of my period correct pancake filters was stolen as i doubt il find a matching pair. So im going to make an oblong type filter box, low profile is needed to miss the passenger shock. Very pleased with myself

going to road register this cAm? i hope so

Finished fitting roof liner. The bit that goes under the rear window is too damaged to be of any real use and looks terrible. Will at some point make a new one twice as big as the original, and fit speakers in there i reckon. Picked up some boxed speakers but they are too big and look silly, will casually look for something very small and easy to hide, speakers can sit on the front parcel tray or under the seats for now. Went looking for an oil filter, was hoping a morry 1000 one was in stock. They are smaller than the one i need but still do the job. Lo and behold ryco now has 2 listings gor a sidevalve minor! They didnt 3 years ago. So i brought one and installed it in my AC filter unit, a slight upgrade over the purolator unit as it has a bypass. Made up all the battery, earth and starter cables using 00 gauge cable. Goddam its amazing how fast the starter spins. (my original earth cable turned to dust as i was measuring it!). I moved the earth cable to the lip of where the armstrong shock bolts too, better than the thin tin of the battery box i reckon, ran an earth from the engine near the starter there too (mine never has one, it probably was forgotten at the last engine change. Oh, and i have the old girl running just on the original carb and manifold for now. But now its roughly set up i can set up the carbs knowing it "should" run once they are right. Wish i could say she started first pop but a little encouragement was needed. Probably due to the new bits figuring themselves out. Not too bad, i dont think the engine has been run in 3 years

Done these things Made wooden battery tray/box. battery is held in place with a pair of leather belts/straps, wood is shellacked installed carpets repaired and recovered headliner panels (3xplyboard panels) in black vinyl. have fitted the two outside ones, middle one is proving to be difficult, might leave it a few days and see if its settled. soldered up a right angled copper adapter/reducer for my lower radiator hose. procrastinating getting it going by working on the interior

old vs new (on the original i had replaced the old.muffler with a flexypipe and a free flow resonator) new is a equal/similar length "tuned" to about 42" because i read someplace that that is the ideal length for this engine (also it just worked out close to that) 1" primaries into 1 1/4" secondaries then a flanged joint. Flexy to the 1 1/2" stainless exhaust with a coby resonator tucked up in the rear between the fuel tank and suspension (no room in original spot now for a muffler, and again this was a period mod in the 60s) have a few bits to tidy up and will have to see how gasproof my welding is. Will have about 40 or so cm more exhaust after the resonator and a stainless down turned tip. I also cut up a exhaust gasket. But it promptly got lost, hope to have it running by the end of the month

Currently exiting just after the front wheel. Need to now get some tube and a couple of bends for the secondaries, a set of flanges, and maybe a muffler. Also some gas for the welder

Morrie has a 3way switch under the dash/never had indicators originally. The commer has one of these clamp to steering column ones retrofitted. It originally had a wee left right switch on the horn button

Yup im wise to that jive its usually the bump stop.that goes through the inner wing and ventilates the engine bay. Can stay that low till iv sorted everything else

Waiting on a bunch of parts to finish this thin. So i lowered the front about 3cm clearance at the upper bump stop Compare to original pics for height difference. Too low tbh haha, my jack only just gets under the chassis rail. Slightly nose down so will use the vernier adjustment to even it up

From memory it has a very shallow curve which angles down to the valves. Cant take much out of the head as the water galleries are very shallow

Made up a bracket for the throttle return springs put the missing bits of front suspension back on finished running the brake lines, reassembled and installed the master cylinder

Finished modifications to the manifold. Made up the throttle and choke linkages, just happened to have some scrap rod of the correct diameter. Needed to be about an inch wider than that of a mini. Have also put on some heatshields that came with the carbs. I can use the fuel line that came with the carbs. Choke cable slots right into place and the throttle cable bracket can be used if shortened. Too easy. Will block off the vacuum take off and make up a bracket for the return springs

I have the flanges made already. Has 4 exhaust ports. Major gains by replacing the log type original exhaust as there are two 90degree bends before tye downpipe. Tyere was a great write up on tye hamb about doing such mods to the 100e enginge that i took a few ideas away from. Have a copper head gasket so can open it up pretty kuch anytime and smooth the step out a bit

. First is a standard 100e. 2nd is fitted with twin carbs and four branch exhaust. Coupled with my port matching and clean up i think im going to be over the 20% increase in power. Haha

turns out that a ford 100e and a sidevalve morris minor have identical port spacings (and a few other things im betting. Want to compare head gaskets at some stage) . So i got a brand spankers new 100e aquaplane twin carb manifold, and a set of 1 1/4 inch SU's from a 948 mini several modifications are required to make the manifold fit. First off the ford has 1" round ports and the minor has 1" square ports - there is enough meat in the flange side to square it out. Second, the fins foul on the thermostat bulge on the head (not an issue if you have an early nothermostat head, or have an alloy head) So these need to be removed quite aggressively to fit. A couple of inches long and down to the body on the first and second fin, then a small amount on the 3rd

How she sits today everything but the intake and exhaust is back on the engine have bodged together a radiator hose. An original would have been brass, im going to change this one for a cut up a series lower hose and a copper right angle bend as this is what others are using. have rebuilt the distributor. Can only get new top entry caps so am keeping the old one. Have replaced a few internal screws with "correct" ones because i dont like the old ones not matching. All bushes were in good order. Removed the old leads and installed new cloth covered copper multistrand ones. I fired up the gas torch and soldered everything together Added a few details. Soldered brass lugs, number punched to the corresponding plug brass cooling fins - because they are neat and wingnuts to hold it together. Cheers and apoligies for phone pictures

In direct violation of this websites rules - i have fitted bump stops to the front (never had any, the rubbers had fallen iff the plates. Wof man never noticed i guess) have drilled and tapped the blank on the timing cover. Moving the generator adjustment further out to clear the new rad to pump hose. Rebuilt generator and reamed out the mounting bracket to take a length of 10mm threaded rod. This should stop the generator falling off. Need to go sort out some bends for the extractors tomorrow. Will also rebuild the distributor and run new leads these days off

Run the radiator in the boot with some speed holes and fans

Engine is back togeter sump fitted lightened flywheel installed new (the best of my spares) clutch and pressure plates fitted Busted springs in gearbox replaced gearbox fitted to engine crossmember in place but yet to be bolted to the car And waterpump and refurbed starter installed. Also made up a heater bypass hose which looks pretty good First time i have done a clutch (in a car at least) so ever the pesimist i expect the car to shake itself to bits. In anycase this car hasnt had a functional starter motor or clutch that works properly since i have owned it

There was a good write up on the hamb - homebrew 4 banger - or similar. Has lost its images now but had heaps of tips on porting and head mods to improve performance (fit a 900 head to the 1100 for more compression etc.) You have already done the best performance mod - seperate the intake and exhaust and fit extractors (fab me some up too please. The side valve morris minor engine is a near exact copy) heaps of performance equiptment still available ex-uk. Aquaplane intakes and heads and the sort. An intake over exhaust head conversion would be neat

Have been making steady progress rear suspension and diff is back in, with a small amount of lowering. Put in sound deadening over the rear half of the floor, and cut underfelt to suit Rebuilt starter motor Painted up the water pump made up a 1 1/2 stainless exhaust system - just tacked till i get someone to finish it pulled the sump and timing chain cover (there is now nothing holding my engine in as it kounts via the gearbox and timing cover) Have fitted a new cork seal to the rear bearing cap, sump gaskets, and new rope oil seal to the sump and timing cover. If this doesnt keep the oil in it looks easy enough to machine the front lips off and fit a modern one piece, and i even have a seal perfect for the rear cap in my seals bin. Pluses- this engine is incredibly clean inside, the bearings are all in excellent condition and dont appear to be over sized. Iv been slack and havnt got any flywheel bolts yet so cant put it all back together yet. My shelf of parts is looking empty, and the only bits left to buy are the odd nut, bolt and washer