fuel

one out of a NZ-new V3000 should be the same plug arrangement perhaps different rpm shift points. Wouldn't be surprised if one out of a 4cyl Sigma will be the same too.

It's definitely there - close to the firewall behind the radio.

It's a KM175 trans with a TCU located in the centre console behind the radio on the top of the 'trans tunnel' bump. It does not have kick down cable, it gets throttle reading from the ECU's TPS and electronically adjusts line pressure to suit. No FWD Galant/Sigma/V2000/V3000 auto trans has a kick down cable, even the most basic carb models still had a TPS stuck on the carb feeding signal to the TCU. When I've seen similar era Mitsubishi TCU's fail usually you get funny things happening like losing reverse or torque converter lock up clutch being engaged right away which stalls the engine. If you unplug the TCU or if a sensor is faulty or missing it will go into mechanical fail-safe mode where line pressure is default high and you can only engage third gear or reverse mechanically and the torque converter just slips to make up for lack of other gears. Not engaging first gear and slipping 2nd could be a TCU fault though, who knows. I would pull it out and check the state of the caps - you'll find a FWD Sigma or V3000 TCU could probably be substituted in just fine (for troubleshooting purposes at the least anyway).

Does any model of that gen Echo/Vitz/Platz/Yaris have electric PS?

. Discuss how delusional I am here:

It's no Mariah Motorsports/Kent Racing cassette slot kit, but it is a Pacific kit from the early 80s that didn't break the bank. Not a fan of the rear wing though, I'm going to see if I can make it work with my existing 3pc wing.

S4 WP housing + S5 alternator swapped on, no pics yet cause it's in a different parking spot that's much darker that sucks for photos. I did a thing though.. was surprised it all fit into the Passat with the rear seats down

Couldn't find an existing sharn thread so apologies if one already exists. You could just swap in the entire rear beam from that newer Galant into your V2000 and that way you gain the newer style brakes you can get parts for.

Sucks about the double rear ending! people are idiots. Maybe time for a super bright high stop light so these morons know you are stopping?

FB GSL-SE 13B GMB water pump which is the same as 12A/pre FC models - yeah you can see the stud difference in the pics but will get around it by putting in a short 10x1.5mm stud into the unused water pump bolt hole and the gasket has enough to material to seal up around the other unused hole too. The Banzai Racing adjustable alternator bracket allows for universal placement on either FB or FC water pump/housings so it should be all good on that front.

** discussion here - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ ** Some small progress Racing Beat exhaust now swapped on, deleted the air pump and associated components at the same time to shed about 5kgs and less components engine has to spin. It has definitely opened up the engine somewhat, it feels much less strangled now. There is a small problem of the number 2 rotor 6-port actuation shaft not spinning as freely as the number 1 rotor, so perhaps there is still some more power/drivability with that functioning perfectly. I am hoping to swap to S5 N/A complete injection with inlet manifold, CAS, AFM, coil packs etc as it's just that little bit newer, probably unlock a bit more drivability, power and slightly less fuel consumption. While the wheels were off I noticed the rear trailing arm bushes were pretty toast, and the front bushes aren't the best looking either so did another round of RockAuto shopping for more suspension components. Grabbed some Redline oil for the gearbox and diff too: I picked up a S5 80A alternator along with Banzai Racing double sheath pulley and adjustable alt bracket for some bling, also got a GMB aluminium water pump along with S4 N/A aluminium water pump housing (stock are both cast iron) which should save about ~10kgs up front. Will eventually convert to electric fan (apparently early 90s Ford Taurus fits almost perfectly and is super powerful and somewhat plentiful here) Have started pulling out all the original components (along with radiator, radiator bracket, shroud, air box, battery & battery tray etc to give them all a much needed clean up and give me space to do the water pump + housing swap. Also got the daily road legal (it had a leaking clutch slave cylinder, which lives inside the bellhousing on the throw out bearing, because Volkswagen) but couldn't help myself by getting some OEM Tiguan Savannah (how fitting) 19x9 +33 and some used Bilstein struts with H&R 1" lowering springs hopefully to achieve this look (pictured is a Passat CC but they are basically same car under the skin): Have got some Racing Beat lowering springs and sway bars on order too so hopefully they arrive soon! ** discussion here - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ **

I used rear springs from one of these and had them compressed a further 2-3 inches but if I were to do it again I would use E30 BMW 3 series springs instead as the Barina springs were just a bit too soft. Front spring were just cut a little and the lower shock mounts were spaced down about half an inch to keep the springs captive.

You may just fall in love with the 650i! Either that or the previous owner knows something you don't and is willing to trade it for a more reliable TVR haha

Yes! I really like the Rotary Engineering IMSA GTU/Kent Racing kit with cassette slot front bumper wishful thinking though! Costs over US$2400

Oh yeah, if you guys and gals are disgusted by how dirty the car is - so am I. That's only after just two relatively short drives in the snow and salt spray slush that gets left behind a few days after snow fall. I don't want to expose the RX7 to any more salt so I went and bought a winter beater, a 2010 Passat 2.0t 6MT with 142k for $1500 maple syrup hockey pucks. My insurance costs more than the damn car haha. Hopefully will make me hurry up with more updates as I don't need to do work to the RX7 in between needing to drive it.

Am running 195/55 R15 which are a tad stretched as they are, 205 or 215 would have sat more square on the 7" rim. I don't really want to go down to 175 or 185 just for the sake of getting these wheels fitted, even if I went a narrower tyre there's still the issue of the edge of the rim being a good 30+mm beyond the edge of the fender. I did use wheelsize.com but I was working with the assumption the stock wheels were +20 instead of the +40 they actually were, and I was literally pushing it with the assumption the stock wheels were +20 already. I did check if I could machine off the back face of the wheel but the bottom of the lug nut seat is only 3-4mm from the back of the hub face as it is. I honestly don't know where these wheels hide the -3 of offset, the dish is only about 30mm and the mesh spokes are convex, which is why I'm partially siding towards just finding better wheels. But here in the land of maple syrup and fake sorry's decent 4x114 wheels are far and few between.

alright so I got the wheels & tyres finally on.... aaaaannnndddd I fucked up the offset difference measurements. I knew I was pushing it a little with 15x7 -3 wheels under the assumption the factory wheels were +20mm, turns out that the GSL-SE has +40mm offset factory wheels so they stuck out almost another inch than anticipated. So either I look for other wheels or I.... ** discussion here - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ **

Spoiler alert! Lamp is from a third gen Camaro ** discussion here - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ **

Pics no worky for me

** discussion here - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ ** Ok a little bit of progress on the wheel front - I painted one centre silver and reassembled to see how it would look and it came out good, I think the bronze colour is lush but only really suits having the whole wheels painted like Watanabes. And the more I think about gold the more I don't think it will fit in with the existing black and silver the car has right now. In other news I took off the 3pc spoiler to repaint as the top surfaces were very weathered and showing the base coat. Also lots of dirt and crap under the spoiler and even a little bit of surface rust to attend to in spots as well And painted (still needs final wet sanding and clear coat) I'm still yet to do the centre section as I'm modifying it to fit a centre brake lamp as I'm paranoid some c**t is going to rear end me, and I don't want an aftermarket type one hanging from the hatch window with messy wires blocking view and lighting up the interior every time I brake. ** discuss failings here - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ **

** Discussion https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/ ** Let's talk about wheels, baby! So I made a start on stripping the bolts out and soaking in vinegar to get rid of most of the surface rust and discolouration. It's a shame they are welded 3pc rather than true 3pc so I can't split them up to make it easier. The outer lips have been painted silver and the centres black over top the original gold which has been a pain to strip back but I'm already half way through. I can't quite decide on the centre colour - the more I strip them back the more the original gold is growing on me and it would be nice to get them looking like these But I'm also loving the bronze that is often on Watanabes But silver is oh so classic Help me decide here - https://oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/74793-helium-elbows-magical-rx-7-fb/

try another browser other than Chrome - that seems to work.

Also you may have luck getting a distributor from Australia - the 2.0L JA/JB/JD models were sold in slightly larger numbers there than the NZ-new and jap import models that made their way to NZ.

That distributor you have is from an E33A Galant or similar (Chariot etc) with 4G63 SOHC 8V. It is optical and has both cam and crank position sensor inside and the ECU controls the advance/retard of spark. The distributor you want is a hall effect with built in ignitor and vacuum advance. I guess in this day and age they would be harder to find, but you could use one from an L200/L300/FWD Sigma or early Chariot with 4G62/4G63 SOHC carb engine at a pinch - it will still trigger spark to get the engine running but the advance/retard curve will be different.