fuel

Something to do with the angles of the rod and the speed of the piston as it reaches BDC and TDC. I'm sure there's some info about it in the FAQ section.

Problem is it pretty much is screwed in as far as it can go.

So clutch would start to engage sooner as you take your foot off the clutch? Problem he's having is the clutch engages far later in clutch travel than it did before - like almost right as you've taken foot off altogether.

It's a '89 SC3H Galant GLX with 4G37 carby styles. Same as E32A import I'm sure, and others like Cordia non turbo, FWD Sigma 1.8, Chariot, Tredia etc. I just can't remember if winding out the adjustment makes the clutch bite earlier or later, would possibly make it bite far later. I think it was at max adjustment or pretty close too it, I couldn't get it to wind in anymore. Clutch kit includes clutch plate itself, pressure plate and release bearing which is the bearing I pointed out. Reason we used the other pressure plate was the original pressure plate was uneven on the surface and probably would have slipped with the other clutch plate which was worn differently. Like putting new rotors in without changing brake pads almost.

Yeah I guess its the RWD belt driven 4G32s which have balance shafts, the FWD ones dont but the FWD 4G37s do for some reason. And caboon, what parts exactly have you got? I imagine you need a ground down right hand balance shaft to run off the oil pump, otherwise a stub of some sort, but it has to keep that small oil pump gear in place.

The other dot is on the other oil pump cog, on the side facing the outside of the oil housing too which makes it difficult. You need to remove the oil pump pulley first to take the cog out on the shaft and you will see. I'm just in the process of rebuilding a 4G37 (1755cc big brother of a 4G32) and remember it vividly. I have a PDF workshop manual for rebuilding a 4G37 engine too if you want it (should all be the same as 4G32 except bore size). What car did this 4G32 come out of? I didn't think 4G32's had balance shafts, perhaps its the last of them (late 80s, early 90s). -Phil

Ahh so you are the one who bought it I was keeping an eye on that auction. I could have bought one of them a couple years ago but the body was pretty rough and had a cracked windscreen and I figured it would be super hard to get parts for. What are you going to do with the starion?

Progressing along pretty well dan. if you wanna sell those celica rims please please let me know, I would be keen for my corolla.

nah its just the picture, it's aspect ratio has been changed.

You think the rough idle is caused by something else or the tapping noise is caused by something else? When does it do the tapping? At all revs or at a certain rev range?

now it doesn't idle? ... pete what are you doin to it? It's definitely the tappets making that noise? And not anything else like the mechanical fuel pump? Just set the tappets to 0.10mm for intake and 0.20mm for exhaust and it should idle fine and shouldn't be too noisey.

Haha that's a good sure sign to walk away from them and take it to a mechanic who knows at least what tappets are Seriously it doesn't take too long to get the hang of doing them, certainly nothing to take it to a mechanic for anyway.

Yeah it took me a good half a dozen times to learn how to get them just right.

0.25-0.4mm for first compression ring, 0.25-0.35mm for second compression ring and 0.2-0.7mm for oil control rings. -Phil

Remember the crank rotates twice for every rotation of the camshaft (and the distributor). You may find the crank will be at TDC (or 10deg BTDC) and the rotor will be 180 degrees out (ie pointing at number 4 cylinder instead of number 1 cylinder).

You need a special tool which removes them. It looks like a cheese slicer wire attached to a handle at each end. You feed the wire through a hole around the edge of the windscreen and attach it to the handles and slice the glue around the windscreen. I'm not entirely sure where you would get one from though.

How is the ignition timing? What is it set at? What octane fuel is he running? So when it's cold and you go to start it does the starter continually wind over but the engine doesn't fire? Have you checked the spark plugs? They could be old, and could be soaked in petrol from not firing. I'm not familiar with the twin carbs but do they have chokes? If so do they move freely and not sticking?

You would still use a throttle body if you go multi port injection with a megasquirt would you not?

Are you absolutely sure it's a DOHC engine? If it's a 1600cc DOHC (ie a 4G32 from a GTO MR) it will say DOHC on the rocker cover. Are you sure you aren't confusing the rocker arm shafts for cam shafts? Post pics of the engine bay and I will tell you what engine it has.

Hey newbie.. firstly check the dates which this thread was posted.. you've dug up an old thread from the grave. Secondly I already said it had hydraulic lifters.

I thought the 8V Starion 4G63 was wide block as well? Eliot you say you owned both? When did you have an 8V Starion turbo block? Your Sigma block is narrow block but the turbos are wide block.

the valves open at 2500rpm so I doubt it will sound like a roaring vtec or anything. It's basically the same principle as the cyclone butterflies on the intake runners on a VR-4 engine. At low rpm the intake is restricted (set of valves shut on the DASH, half the runners blocked off on a VR-4) to promote turbulance and better atomisation of fuel at low rpm, and at higher rpm there is less restriction so there is more flow. Either system is results in more torque in the lower rev range.

The actual DASH core block (and other SOHC turbo 4G63s) is the same as the VR-4, but there are lots of differences like the crankshaft, the oil pump assembly and cover, water pump etc. The rods and pistons of the DASH are the same as a VR-4, but the crankshaft is different, along with the front oil cover on the engine and crank pulley itself.

Sounds like good times to be had. My corolla isn't on the road at the mo and I definitely don't want to go in my mitsi..

Hey Eliot yeah the extra valves are controlled by the oil solenoid. It's basically like a primitive MIVEC/VTEC. I would say you can use an aftermarket computer to control the extra valves just like MIVEC/VTEC. And Dicey, you could use the non turbo block as long as you use the DASH internals (such as a crank, cradle, pistons, rods, oil pump cover, sump etc). I'm not entirely sure if the turbo block has oil squirters in the block itself.