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fuel

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Everything posted by fuel

  1. Hey dude nice car, that's rockn! Just a couple things tho, the 4G62 and 4G63 have the same stroke - it's the bore size which is different. And also a TD04HL is off a RVR or GSR not an Evo (which is TD05 16g wheel).
  2. fuel

    4G32 Hell!

    Priming is basically filling the oil system with oil (oil oil pump, galleries, head, oil filter etc) so that when it does fire it has full lubrication. When we rebuilt the 4G37 I used penrite engine and camshaft assembly grease on all the crankshaft journals/bearings and put quite a bit into the oil pump gears too. I filled up the oil filter as much as I could with oil and chucked it on, then when the engine was in the car I took the coil to dizzy lead off and cranked it until the oil pressure light went off. Then connected the lead and it fired first pop and ran great.
  3. fuel

    4G32 Hell!

    Yeah sounds like you didn't put oil or grease on all the bearings when you reassembled it - and didn't let it get oil pressure first before you fired it first time. I've seen it happen on a few mitsi engines, specifically a DASH 4G63 going into a Cordia - all the bearings just turned to powder pretty much. Also you shouldn't have put Magnatec in straight away - as it is semi synthetic it needs to be run in on a mineral oil for at least 3,000kms.
  4. fuel

    offset for dx?

    It varies with the width of rim you are using. On factory 5" wide rims it would be approx +38~40mm.
  5. Haha yeah I'm bored and I just wanted to post pictures and talk shit
  6. Have you pulled apart a VR-4 4G63 recently? Compare the size of the crank, rods to any other engine (ie SR20DET, 3S-GTE) and you will be quite amazed. The 4G63 is very over-engineered and apart from the soft rings are an otherwise robust engine. No engine is immune to running a bearing. That picture I posted above was from Pete's Galant - it had done 411,000kms on the original bottom end. What was thought to be worn valve springs turned out to be excessive bearing clearance causing the piston top to be tapping the head. It got to the point where the noise was so horrible yet it still ran on all four cylinders no problems. As you can see the bearing was worn down so thin it squished out the side of the journal and broke into many peices, along with depositing a metallic paste all through the engine.
  7. Looks like the bearing didn't like the increase up to 196kw+ Here's the results of 411,000kms on an original 4G37 bottom end:
  8. Holy scrolling screen batman! Reckon you could resize those pics?
  9. I have a car with a towbar and a trailer. When were you planning on picking it up? I got work 9-6 tomorrow but other than that I should be free.
  10. Spend a weekend pulling apart the engine (make sure you label everything correctly) clean it all up and measure the bores, crank journal size etc and check if its all within spec still. If not you probably would be better off just finding another running engine. Seriously the 4G3x series engine is quite simple and there's not alot that can go wrong when rebuilding one of these. You just gotta have the right tools, patience and preferably a second set of hands.
  11. Well Pete and I recently rebuilt a 4G37 engine (bigger brother to the 4G32) - we stripped and cleaned the engine, fitted new rings, gaskets and bearings and assembled the engine again all in a weekend. If definitely didn't smoke after the rebuild, and I'm pretty sure it used very little oil while being run in. The trick is you have to measure all the parts and make sure they are still within spec. There's no use chucking standard sized pistons back in when the bores are quite worn.
  12. Yeah if there are alot of carbon deposits in the combustion chamber they can cause hot spots and cause the engine to run on as the hot spots will continue to ignite the air/fuel mix after ignition is cut. Too hotter spark plugs can do the same thing too.
  13. Man time flys. So I've been playing around with painting some panels to see what white would look like: I think white seems to suit it so I'll paint the rest of it the same gloss white My list of things to do: Finish fixing rust paint rest of car get WOF + rego fit some jap style 14x8" wheels and stretched 185/60 tyres dump it on its ass with TA61 front struts finish rebuilding 2T-GEU and chuck it in find disc brake diff for it
  14. $106 for the pair, they are 265mm by 24mm I think - DBA221 is the part number. Same rotors for FWD Sigma 84-88, 83-88 Chariot and the pre-facelift Galants 87 til late 89.
  15. Double post FTW! Pretty sure it was only the Starion GSR-V and the FWD E15A Eterna/Galant VR Hard Top which had the Sirius DASH 3x2 engine. I had a Sigma GSR-X back in the day with a Sirius DASH engine, was from an Eterna VR. Power was approx 200hp which was impressive for the time it came out (1985). It redlined at 7000rpm despite still being a SOHC engine.
  16. hey whatever happens I'm keen too.. just I don't have an oldschool car on the road yet. Lemme know whats happening
  17. I got my set of Solex locks from work for $80 - and we don't even sell Solex locks!
  18. You don't have to do anything illegal to run in an engine. I kept under the speed limit easily, just by using lower gears and letting it rev out a bit to 4500rpm (redline 6000rpm) in the first few gears, and just cycling acceleration and deacceleration in the same gear and giving in WOT a few times (not that it would accelerate fast with WOT ). Then we took it out on the open road for about 20kms just driving normally and trying not to keep it at a constant rpm/load for too long. Once I tweaked the ignition timing it was good to go and Pete drove it another 300kms on the open road to finish running it in. We used just some cheap Valvoline SF grade 20W50 oil to run it in. Keep using a mineral oil for the next few thousand kms at least, then switch to whatever oil you wish to use.
  19. fuel

    starion offset

    About +35mm if I recall correctly.
  20. Me n pete just ran in a Mitsi 4G37 SOHC after we fitted it with new rings and bearings. According to instructions on the ACL rings, it said to not let it idle for too long, and to put it under load for the first 20kms at the least. It's important to vary the load on the engine, otherwise the bores may glaze up. I took it to about 4000~4500rpm in the first few gears and opened the throttle often. Basically run it in how you would like to drive it later on. Also, if you are fitting ACL Protec rings, it is absolutely important to NOT hone the bore before hand and don't let any oil get in contact with the rings during assembly.
  21. Yeah sounds like the 4.1 has a low rod to stroke ratio, probably around 1.4~1.6. They have to have a long stroke as opposed to having a big bore to keep the length down, and also a short rod to keep the block height down as well.
  22. Yeah basically. Short rod engines are better for forced induction, and can generally have more agressive cam timing. My 2L V6 has a rod to stroke ratio of 1.81 and its quite rev happy but lacks torque down low.
  23. Something to do with the angles of the rod and the speed of the piston as it reaches BDC and TDC. I'm sure there's some info about it in the FAQ section.
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