fuel

Mean! Bah - been trying to take that big nut off the shocks with a pipe wrench but they are on too tight that I can't stop the strut from turning around while pushed down with my foot. Don't suppose anyone has a big vice in their garage do they?

Hey boes that's a VX-S you picked up not a VX-R Anyway I've got a mate who would be keen on the front bumper if you are going to end up parting the rest out.

hey guys, takin apart the front suspension of my eterna and I found I need not one but TWO 22mm spanners to undo the tie rods haha, I only have one but not another. Anyone got one? Also need a 30mm 1/2" drive socket to undo my pitman arm. Anyone got one of these too? cheers boes!

For the rears, there is a shortened shock option for VN Commodores, which is just a KE70 wagon rear shock with different bushes fitted to take different size mounting bolts.

I really like that colour scheme eh

Haha that's another great name to add to the list, so far I have: Banana boat Yellow brick road "I can't beleive it's not butter!" and now massive great block of cheese, but in a good way. Aws.

Oh yeah my last exam is on Thursday morning so I'll be getting stuck into the front suspension in the afternoon and friday if need be.

Dunno how much it will drop eh, probably just the usual 40mm or so. Green boxes has inner tie rod ends, idler arm and pitman arm. I think I'll get get kings for the rear when they are back in stock. I just can't have the car springless for nearly 2 weeks just before the nats - I would never get the rest done. It's just going to be mega rake style at the nats haha.

That's some cool progress. Are you going to convert to discs up front or just keep rocking the drums?

Oh yeah, almost forgot: Gotta have some underbonnet bling haha

So I've had some parts arrive: Some front king springs, shocks, inner and outer tie rod ends, idler arm, pitman arm and sway bar bushes. I'm still unsure what to do about the rear springs, kings wont have any for another month and Chamberlain will take two weeks to make some up, and plus I have to send my original springs down so it will be off the road in that time. I still need it mobile to sort out the turbo, exhaust and intercooler etc. Still on the list to get: Brake pads + machined rotors Fire extinguisher + helmet + overalls Rear lowering springs List to do: Fit all the parts above Fit exhaust Fit intercooler and get piping made up

Nice wagon but seriously do yo have to make a NEW topic each time you post?! Can a mod please tidy that up? Chur

They were Bosch, and I think the rear brakes squeal when going in reverse - they all seem to do it.

Ferodo Zero's? Really? I don't rate them that high - they are an alright pad but not the best. I had them on the old Galant and they were quite dusty. Also Supercheap don't do ferodos for the Starion, but can get some decent Remsa pads for the same price. Whose the firm BNT get them from? Might be keen to do that boes

Ahh, cheers guys for that advice. So not really best to chuck greenstuffs in my whale then. Off to BNT I go then They are going to skim my rotors too, can't complain with $15 a side.

Sweet Sorted there. Anyone know about the brake pads?

Hey guys, two questions - I want to replace the front shocks in my Eterna but notice the replacements are KYB inserts. Has anyone had experience replacing just the inserts of a factory strut? Is it really as easy as the leaflet supplied suggests? Or would I need some specialist tools and machinery? Also, I'm wanting to replace the front brake pads with a decent compound for when I take my car on the track. Has anyone had experience with EBC Greenstuff brake pads before? I can get a front set for $70 which seems good - or should I go with a more reknown brake pad like Bendix Metalking's or Mintex Racing pads? Cheers

Alot of the squealing is actually the brake pad vibrating at such a rate inside the brake caliper. Try taking the brake pads out and using an anti-squeal compound on the back of them and putting them back in.

For $35 I can still think of better semi-synthetic 10W40 oils. Shell Helix Ultra 10W40 in a 4L pack currently $35 at Supercheap, or Valvoline Synguard 10W40 in a 5L pack for $40 but often comes down to $35 at Supercheap. If repco retails something at $55, chances are the cost price is $15~20.

Dude what happened to your corner indicator?

Nah not yet, haven't had the time in between work and uni. Once exams are over a couple weeks I will get stuck into it.

why can't you OTP boe?!~one

caboon - turbo 4G63 blanking plate wont fit on a 4G37. cam - it's actual mechanical failure. The arm simply becomes hard to move and wont return into its position. If a diaphragm/seal split it would simply leak which it isn't doing. Pete - am still pretty sure the timing is out if it has fuel and spark. Did you set TDC on the crank pulley or cam pulley? If on the crank pulley cam could still be out 180 degrees (common cause). Don't forget to chuck a timing light on it once its running and set timing to 8~10 degrees BTDC, or less if it pinks.

Yes definitely right pump. The first pump was from Supercheap, second pump was from Repco and they were both the same pump. The 4G3x only uses one pump anyway. I'm pretty sure 4G63 only has the one type pump too. And yeah there is a hole on the side of the pump, when the rubber diaphragm seal breaks oil and/or fuel will leak out. Originally it just leaked oil and created a mess but it still pumped fuel and didn't leak fuel.

Hey guys, need advice here from anyone who can help. My old car (89 Galant with 4G37 SOHC carb engine) went for 408,000kms on the original fuel pump before it started leaking oil out of the weep hole. I replaced the pump with a new aftermarket pump just a couple weeks before Pete (retep130) bought the car. A couple weeks after he bought it, the new pump stopped pumping and it looks like it was because the arm wouldn't return down. We thought it could have just been a dud pump from the factory so Pete replaced it with another aftermarket pump from Repco (although they had the same part number). Six months has gone by and this replacement pump has also just given up the ghost like the first one! It looks to be the same fault too - the arm just isn't returning and is hard to move back. Does anyone know what could be causing this? The original pump went fine for 17 years and 408,000kms yet these new aftermarket pumps can't even last 6 months? Both pumps were installed correctly with #2 piston at TDC and rocker cover off and watching arm to make sure it sits on cam properly. Could there be anything else wrong with the head which could cause this? The head was reconditioned before but that was still 40,000kms before the pump was replaced. Any ideas would be great. Cheers