fuel

lol awesome So the moral of the story Phil, is that the AMG is worth getting or not? Can you build another 4g to be as good or are there parts found only in the AMG one that are worth hunting it down for? Oh for sure the AMG is worth getting, I convinced dom (corrupt) to get an AMG engine for his E33A Galant. I'm just saying some of that info above is not correct. It has the same bottom end as the normal high compression 4G63 DOHC but the head/manifold/ECU are where the differences are.

Wouldn't be able to use a Cordia carb in a blow through application, as they are a suck-through turbo setup - as I just posted above with pics

Hey cam some of that shit about the AMG engine is wrong. The bottom end of an AMG engine is NO different to that of the standard high comp 10.4:1 DOHC 4G63 (ie in the facelift VZ-S and VX-S E33A Galant). All the prefacelift E33As had the 145hp engine with 9.5:1 compression ratio. As above they have hollow rockers and more agressive cams, and possibly titanium springs. They do NOT have the cyclone manifold, infact they have a manifold which looks externally like the Evo 1~3 manifold as it looks nothing like even the N/A or VR-4 manifold. I have a friend who has not one but FOUR AMG Galants just outside of Napier. He is nuts about them and every one he finds for sale he buys.

It's hard to tell from the pics on trademe but I'm sure his carb has the accelerator pump in the exact same position as my AISAN carbs did

No, alot of the turbo carb Mitsis were SUCK through. Take the MK1 Mirage Turbo and the early Cordia 1.6 GSR Turbos for example - they had the turbo between the manifold and the carb (which was an AISAN carb). The exhaust was routed from the exhaust manifold around over the gearbox up to the turbo on the inlet manifold. Made for an interesting setup which caused turbos to have a short life. Have a look at this, off a early 4G32 Cordia GSR Turbo - http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =108046137 I think it was only the Sigma GSR Turbo (in Australia, where they primarily used Solex carbs instead of AISAN like Japan and NZ) which was blow through carb turbo.

I think mongols carb will be an Aisan whereas yours will be the Solex. There's a guy on trademe who has an adapter from Aisan to Weber (alot of Toyotas use Aisan carbs too). He probably has Solex to Weber too

Actually I just remembered, the one step primer filler is yellow/beige while the super etch primer is grey in colour.

Generally bringing back up four year old posts is not a good idea.. Anyway that two for $6 primer is just your basic enamel primer, it's not an etch primer or anything. The etch primer which is yellowish/beige is the septone one, for $14 a can.

With only 16 posts I would still consider you a newbie, especially as you dredge up old posts like most newbies seem to do. Yes I have an opinion on the SC Paint - it's shit. Aussie export stuff is rubbish, and the Septone range is marginal. I have used the Septone stuff on my Corolla a bit, and while the Etch primer does seem to do the job fine, I would still pay the extra couple $$ for better stuff. Also don't paint Arcrylic over enamel or vice versa - can cause some nasty reactions.

Hey dude I know you're a newbie but please CHECK the date of the posts you reply to, you've dragged up a near FOUR year old post.

Fuck yeah I'm keen for this. Roadtrip stz! Don't really wanna take the block of cheese though cause it eats through the petrol, which doesn't help my out of debt recovery from the Nats

Oh ok. Spray the area in degreaser and see if it builds up with fluid again quickly and see where exactly it's coming from. Try some power steering stop leak and see if that fixes it, even just temporarily.

How much fluid is it using?

hey boes, turns out it was just tight enough to not come out when levering it out - but with vice grips attached to the lip it just ended up sliding out. I feel so stupid haha, was trying for hours levering it out. Cheers everyone for your help and advice

I need to re-use it on the other engine haha, otherwise I would destroy it.

I would have to tap a thread for the slidehammer I guess. Yeah it is needed to go back on another engine. Puller arms just wont get in under it, flywheel bolts are just in the way, and I don't think the lip is big enough. Crowbar will get in a little bit but usually slips off. Could try a thin wall socket I guess, hrmm wonder who has one.

Hey guys I need to take the flexplate off my 6A12 engine in order to chuck a flywheel on instead. Problem is there's a locating ring which locates the torque convertor in place which wont budge. It's just big enough that I can't get a socket over the crank bolts. I've never had a problem with this on other engines as they have fallen out usually. I've soaked it in CRC/WD40 and tried to get a screwdriver in under there to lever it out but it just wont budge. There's a hole in the centre which I have put a thick screwdriver in and wiggled it and it moves just a fraction of a mm but it still wont come out! Any ideas? Here's a pic of what I'm on about: Cheers

I knew it would be an Aisan carb! I think the 28 refers to the primary bore size which would be 28mm. Secondary is probably 32mm. I'm pretty sure they are the same carbs used on most other post 80ish mitsis but with different jets to suit different engine capacities.

Ok so I ran out of time/money to sort out exhaust, turbo and intercooler but that's alright cause I did the suspension and brakes which was the important thing. And to complement the suspension/brakes I just picked up a set of these for $250 : 15 by 6.5" with +17mm offset. They need to be cleaned up a bit though, as they are a bit rough. Not much left to do for nats; just need to fit fire extinguisher, install CD player, maybe get dump pipe on if I can get O2 sensor hole sorted in time.

How can a slipped fan belt fuck up a cambelt? I think they are just spinning this shit to get out of it. Tell them you are going to take it to another garage for a second opinion and see what they say.

Haha found the problem boes, after taking out the whole strut found the nut holding the shock insert in was tightish but not tight enough. There must have been shit in the threads binding it up and making it feel tight when it really wasn't. thanks dudes, hopefully this is my only problem until trackday haha.. cross fingers - it is a mitsubishi afterall

Yeah boe I just recently replaced the shocks, springs, bushes, pads etc. I'm sure I was talking to you on MSN how much better it handled with all those bits replaced?

Yeah everything on the bottom is held on sweet, it's just the top of the strut which seems to have movement. I think it is only moving front to back if that makes sense. I might just pull the strut out and see if I can find the problem then

hey boes.. my mitsubishi is being a typical mitsubishi with problems cropping up haha. today while coming back from Waihi I noticed a knocking noise coming from the front passenger side suspension when I went over bumps or whenever I turned right. I jacked the car up with and with the wheel still on grabbing top and bottom of tyre I was able to rock it a few mm whilst making the noise. I took the grease cap off the top of the strut and I couldn't see the top nut move at all while rocking it back and forth, but looking under the car you could see the top of the strut moving. I took the top nut and washer out and all the ball bearings are still there and in place so I'm not sure what to think? I've only just recently replaced front shocks, springs etc and the tophats looked to be in good order when the struts were apart. Can anyone throw some light on this situation? Cheers

Nice Lancer, bit off topic but in one of those photos there's a green Civic with rice tail lights - that used to be my flatmates one haha. She swapped it for a rough GTX sedan which then got stolen.